LCA mount issue - How screwed am i?? Vote Now!

[-GT-]

Ok, so, a knock (and some play) developed in my front suspension on the driver's side as i got home the other day, and it turns out i'm missing... (lets play spot the difference)

passenger side (left is to front);


and, the driver's side (right is to front);

So now we've got that out of the way, the problems start. Getting a replacement for the large mount bolt is no problem, got one already, but the smaller nut you can see on the passenger side is on a thread attached to the crossmember, and when the big mounting bolt has come out, the subsequent movement has snapped this thread off, as can be seen on the left in this pic;

You can just see the top of it where it is tacked through the end of the crossmember here;

Now, i don't really want to have to replace the crossmember and i'm *thinking* (read: hoping) that because its just to attach the mounting plate to the crossmember, and with the plate bolted to the chassis (with the large bolt through crossmember) it should be ok without it?

Unfortunately, not the end of my problems. I'm concerned that as the main bolt has worked loose its fubar'd the thread as its farewell gift to me. I've tried getting the new bolt in there and it gets a couple of turns before it jams. The plate and crossmember aren't quite lined up perfectly, but i've loosened the other bolts in the mount and i don't think it's stopping me getting the bolt square to the thread. I only tried getting it in with my fingers, wasn't going to force it in there, i don't think putting a socket on it and driving it home would necessarily fix my problem. But, if the thread is screwed, what the hell do i do?! That's into the chassis!

Now, i've had some ideas about drilling the small bolt out of the crossmember and trying to get another bolt through there, or tacking something onto the stump, but i think i've got bigger problems...

Another photo to show the setup a little clearer, up is to the front of the car, and left of picture is towards outside of car (driver's side) LCA goes up (forward) from bush, and 3rd bolt through bracket is other side of swaybar out of picture;


How the hell do i fix this???

[StuC]

go to a workshop - they should be able to tap/redo the old thread and remove the snapped stud and put a new one in. Its a very simple job with the right tools

[-GT-]

Yeah, but its not drivable the way it is, up on stands at the moment, i can't get that big bolt in and there's plenty of movement from what i felt just moving it in the garage. I really don't think it would get to the suspension shop, worried it'll do more damage.

[love ke70]

Yeah, but its not drivable the way it is, up on stands at the moment, i can't get that big bolt in and there's plenty of movement from what i felt just moving it in the garage. I really don't think it would get to the suspension shop, worried it'll do more damage.

trailer it if you have to.

Unfortunately, not the end of my problems. I'm concerned that as the main bolt has worked loose its fubar'd the thread as its farewell gift to me. I've tried getting the new bolt in there and it gets a couple of turns before it jams. The plate and crossmember aren't quite lined up perfectly, but i've loosened the other bolts in the mount and i don't think it's stopping me getting the bolt square to the thread. I only tried getting it in with my fingers, wasn't going to force it in there, i don't think putting a socket on it and driving it home would necessarily fix my problem. But, if the thread is screwed, what the hell do i do?! That's into the chassis!

find out the thread of the bolt. if you dotn have a tap and die set walk into a shop that sells them and test them onto the thread of the bolt until u get the right one.
purchase a tap in this size and recut the thread. this will be very easy as the thread already exists, just a little bruised in its current state.
if you want, try and force the bolt in, and if that fails, then recut it,. little to no extra harm done. maybe its just full of road dirt and needs a little persuasion. wd40 the balls off it and socket it in. we all know when to stop when recutting a thread with a bolt. you can just feel whether or not its gonna work

Now, i don't really want to have to replace the crossmember and i'm *thinking* (read: hoping) that because its just to attach the mounting plate to the crossmember, and with the plate bolted to the chassis (with the large bolt through crossmember) it should be ok without it?

thats a judgement call, i would agree, but i havnt seen it to make that judgement


keep us posted

[love ke70]

as to voting...i vote along way from screwed.
i have faith in you

[-GT-]

Yeah, cheers! I think i was just thrown a bit because it seemed like a simple quick fix, then the more i looked at it the worse it got, and i kinda got caught up in the narrative. So i should just be able to re-cut the thread? It didn't look *too* bad, but there are a few marks but nothing that looks like a whole thread is chewed. Hard to see in there properly. Will this be ok long-term? Maybe some loctite love will make it better once i know its ok

If i get the bolt started then put a socket on it i might be able to convince it to go in without risking too much? I'll clean it up and wd-40 it and be gentle, if i could get that bolt done up i reckon i could limp it, heasmans is only 5 mins. I'll have another look at it tomorrow

Anyone else got anything to add, agree/disagree? Thanks guys

[love ke70]

even if i whole thread is chewed you'd be able to recut it. people get scared by munted threads...i dont
get scared by crossed threads, coz theyre a bitch to retap.
should be fine longterm. loctite will stop the bastard coming out again

i wouldnt bother with a shop, coz theyll play on your weakness (worried that its effed) and they will charge like wounded bulls to fix minor/imaginary issues. just try and make the bolt run, if it wont, retap. then loctite it in see how she goes.

thats my 13c anyway

[love ke70]

ps, andrew loves teh rep
haha

[-GT-]

Ha! Yeah, no worries, there was always rep coming for someone who was up at this hour to tell me it wasn't that big a deal! Now i can sleep peacefully! I'll post how i go tomorrow, still interested if anyone else has something to say.

As to the stud tack-welded through the crossmember, how hard is it to get one of them out? Do you have to drill (or grind) them out? Something i'd need a shop to do?

[love ke70]

prob have to grind the bastard off and try tack a new one in there if you were going to bother.
you may be able to get it out and try using a bolt and tack weld that in place, or depending on accessability just hold it still with a spanner

[mullett]

For the small bolt: ezy out it, or if that fails, just drill the bastard. For the big bolt: re-tap it. You CAN damage a thread by forcing a bolt, and it doesn't have to be far out of line to damage a thread in the first few turns. That being said, if you only damage the first few mm, that's all you'll loose. For $10, go and get yourself a decent tap (it's probably M12x1.5) and a tool to push it with. Most important thing: MAKE SURE IT'S STRAIGHT!!!!

RM.

[oldcorollas]

with the stud, might be able to grind of and punch, but shop might do it neater

with the other one.... if you ever think you have a chance at a cross thread.... and it is possible screw the bolt in from the other side, so it gets a run up in good thread to uncross the last bit.....

[Big T]

If you want to borrow a tap/die set, i've got one lying around somewhere. Just drop me a pm if you want to use it dude.

Eddie.

[-GT-]

Thanks guys, going to have another look at it after breakfast. I may take you up on that eddie, where are you located?

[Big T]

I'm located around Baulko... it's less then 10mins away from where we have the monthly meetings.