r154 shifting experiences

[Disturbed1]

in the r154, part "A" is attached to part "B" on a spline. i have had problems with these seperating and fucking up the tolerances in the box binding the syncros and locking the input and the main shaft....

[Drift Motorsport]

Ouch. something I will consider with my build then!

I wonder if it would be easier to make three tiny keyways or ball bearing recesses instead of using the loctite.

I'm not sure how the loctite would handle oil ingress over time.

Bearing lock should keep that spline true. How did the box feel after you did the trick? any change in the shifting?

[Disturbed1]

felt no diff. have only ever had problems with my r154 when drag racing on it. 1.7 sec 60 fts in 1500 kilo soarer with mt et streets.

i had so much fun removing the boxes - i opted to buy a pig of a tremec which has been in and out of my car so many times ive lost count!

i fully rebuilt my box then sold it on.

[JZA70 R]

im not interested in the gearset for increased strength, but rather the taller ratio's. I find even with stock twins the factory ratio's with the factory 4.1 diff is a joke. I can only imagine how impractical this will be with a larger (laggier) single turbo...

and no i dont believe changing diff ratio's is the answer since the main problem is the rpm mis-match of 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd (ratios too far apart!). plus i already have more than enough top speed (280 kph+) i dont really need to extend that even more which is what longer diff gears do...

The os giken gearset sounds like a great resolution to this problem but the price tag is just too hard to justify.

[Drift Motorsport]

Aw..... that's the exact reason I wanted to stay as factory as possible with upgrading the internal weak points.

1.7sec 60fts = respect... that's exactly what im hoping for or better with a full slick. How did the R154 cope with it apart from the the issues mentioned?

Also can you please list your engine / Turbo specs + power and 1/4 time + trap speed on your best ET.

I'm aiming for a 10.5 flat in a street soarer full weight with a T51S Turbo (Similar to a T04R) with the 1JZ and supporting mods (motec, 800cc sards, etc.)

[Disturbed1]

Aw..... that's the exact reason I wanted to stay as factory as possible with upgrading the internal weak points.

1.7sec 60fts = respect... that's exactly what im hoping for or better with a full slick. How did the R154 cope with it apart from the the issues mentioned?

Also can you please list your engine / Turbo specs + power and 1/4 time + trap speed on your best ET.

I'm aiming for a 10.5 flat in a street soarer full weight with a T51S Turbo (Similar to a T04R) with the 1JZ and supporting mods (motec, 800cc sards, etc.)

back in those days, mz20 soarer, 7mgte, gt30r (.82), 550 cc injectors, stock ecu with safc.... plenty of other bolt ons, 5 puck clutch with modified stock pressure plate.. making approx 420-440 hp, 11.89 @118.8 mph


my 11.8 sec pass was recorded from pretty far away, so below is my 12.5. i think this was a 1.9ish 60 compared to my best 1.72

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4r83I...e=channel_page

[Disturbed1]

only vent to the drags twice,

first time = 6 passes no issues. then 2 days later on a car cruise the thrust washer went on me (pics i posted in thread)

2nd time = another 6 or so passes, no issues, drove home fine then box fucked up the next morn.

cars a genuine daily so driven everywhere

[JZA70 R]

DM what state are you in?... no idea where Cheltenham is

[JZA70 R]

i ran several 1.7 sixty foots but with significantly less power (330rwhp) and a VERY forgiving clutch (full face, cushioned and centre sprung).

Gearbox feels and sounds exactly the same as before...

[Drift Motorsport]

Nice..... limited mods and a 11sec pass to boot!

I've got about 290rwkw with the GT25 CHRA's with CT12 housings at 21psi at the moment So thats around 390 HP. I should be able to run a similar time if not a 12.1 in my current setup with micky streets.

I'm located in Melbourne, but we had a workshop in Cheltenham and are looking at opening up another one again in the same area with a focus on performance again depending on if we can get a decent business partner and/or factory space at a reasonable rate. Workshops are a money pit if not run properly so at the moment im just doing love jobs and finally working on my own cars instead of other peoples! Working on POS' all day really killed my passion for working on cars, but im easing into the game again with my own cars and new ideas. All the imports are getting more affordable and cheaper so people are naturally going to spend more money customising and doing them up.

The plan to go to a 2JZ setup with a bigger turbo and try to get a 9sec pass in the soarer with a T51R or similar 70-76mm inducer borg warner turbo once the current setup gets tired.

I've got a few things im working on now such as getting rid of that dredded soarer axel tramp. Solid alloy or urethane subframe bushes + diff bushes etc all around! Axel tramp on a stock soarer is worse than a skyline... i thought the diff was going to hit me in the head! lol

[Drift Motorsport]

Hey Guys,

Ok group buy is underway!

Prices and pictures are below. All prices include GST and delivery Australia Wide. I will close this group buy Thursday 4/6/9 11:59 pm next week and the goods will arrive to your door within 2-3 weeks at the most. We will try to ship via express post where we can to save on delivery time. Upfront Payment will be required in full and we will ship your item out as soon as it arrives in stock or gets manufacutred. I will update this thread for people to check the status on the order process.

There is no minimum to buy to get these prices! Order now!

Please add your forum name and first name and initial like I have done for my order here:
Drift Motorsport - Costa T
1x Billet Thrust Washer
1x Billet Retainer
1x Bearing Kit for R154
1x ARP Flywheel Bolts
1x Custom Shifter Fork 1-2
1x Custom Shifter Fork 2-3
etc etc.


Prices:
Cro-Mo Billet Thrust Washer - $175 Delivered
Cro-Mo Billet 1st Gear Bearing Retainer - $175 Delivered
Both Together - $350 Delivered

ARP Flywheel Bolts - $79 Delivered
Flywheel Locking RIng - $69 Delivered

AISIN (OEM Toyota) Clutch Slave - $99 Delivered
AISIN (OEM Toyota) Clutch master - $149 Delivered (Just Waiting on the supplier to get back to me on this one)

Toyota FIPG Gasket Goo (the special Toyota OEM stuff) - $39 Delivered

Braided Clutch Line Master -> Slave - $99 Delivered

Toyota OEM Bearing Rebuild Kit (All R154 bearings, synchros and seals) - $699 Delivered speical price

Custom Shifter Fork 1-2 (STEEL OEM SHAPE) - $369 Delivered
Custom Shifter Fork 2-4 (STEEL OEM SHAPE) - $369 Delivered

Other goodies
Pressure Plate Bolt Set - $29 Delivered
Bell Housing -> Transmission Bolt Set - $29 Delivered
Nylon Shifter Socket Set (non remote) - $39 Delivered

Pictures up soon on the thread!

Please note that our banking details have been updated. Please ensure that you are paying into the correct detials as described below.

Bank: Commonwealth Bank Australia
Name: AUTO SHOP ONLINE PTY LTD
BSB: 063 142
Account: 1035 5987
Amount: $As Above

Please use your SURNAME as a payment description, or your postcode if you can only enter numbers.

Please advise me of the following details...
Parts you would like ordered:

Transfer Receipt:

Full Name:
Delivery Address:
Phone Number:
Email Address:


Cheers!

--
-----
Costa

Drift Shop Australia
www.driftshop.com.au
0433 220 139 (Voice Mail Service)
[email protected]

[HKS_TRD]

Which billet pieces are made here and which are imported from the US?

[Drift Motorsport]

The engineers here are giving me the run around on the price of Cro-Molly steel and the machining cost of the bearing retainer so the prices are for Marlin Crawler Thrust Washer and Retainer in Cro-Molly steel and do the job quite well.

The shifter fork is a locally made product and the majority of the other goods are made overseas.

If the Aussie manufactures pull thier finger out before the order and we can get it cheaper - I can refund the difference. So far most of their quotes have been pretty pricey and I have wasted countless weeks hopping from one place to another. I have my gripes about local manufactures always being too expensive and slack when it comes to delivering on time. My priority is delivering the goods to people on time as I know group buys can drag out heaps longer than expected.

[HKS_TRD]

Ah OK

now just to clarify, is the rebuild kit genuine Toyota parts?

[Drift Motorsport]

Yep the rebuild kit is a Toyota OEM rebuild kit tha contains all synchros, bearings and seals required for the rebuild.

If you have a JZA70 box, you may need a larger bearing on the rear shaft as the rebuild kit may have the smaller bearing or vice versa if you have a remote shifter box. You can buy bearings at SKF, FAG, Bearing Wholesales etc and it is a stock standard part. The bearings in the toyota boxes i have seen are Nachi Bearings Japan.