The suspension is on the cards very shortly for even the current engine as the handling is, shall we say, slushy at best at the moment. Aside from tower braces what other chassis mods are available?
Don't forget one other very vital thing though.
You will need to do some significant work in the suspension and chassis department for the car to get to handle that power, let alone use it.
The reality of aiming for something like that it a huge target, and I reckon see what it is like at 250rwkW, as I reckon that that will make the Mk2 scarily fast, and any more is just over kill.
But as mentioned before, save lotsa bucks. Going for that amount of power, you'd want to start with a good block, and as Ian found out in melbourne, he gave up after 6, and bought a new one at a cost of $5600.
I've been for a ride in Norbs when he had only 236 rwkW, and farkme that was quick.
Cheers
Michael B
'84 MA61 with 7M-GTE
Now 5sp, 5 stud,17x8" Ray's, big assed brakes and decent IC
Better turbo in the wings as well as MAFT !!!!
The suspension is on the cards very shortly for even the current engine as the handling is, shall we say, slushy at best at the moment. Aside from tower braces what other chassis mods are available?
Project megap00 - Gave up and sold up. Money tree died
I'd check out http://www.turbosupras.com for a couple of tough 7ms. I've seen/heard Dan's car and it is very nice. It's not cheap, but should hold together for a long time.
It's now running at one of the GT series turbos and doing 300 rwkw's easy.
And get the cams if you can! If only for the sound of it idling.
GT35/40R or TO4Z
They will set you back some serious coin new.
Haha and as mentioned above 400rwkw in an MA61 will be an amusing sight, trying to get traction, might want to consider striping it and a chassis up strengthening procedure for some reinforcement. They are just not designed for that much power.
600 Club Member: Toymods Large Member
MegaP00 - 7MGTE Skunkworks division
RIP - Nathan Dean (TA-022)
$2K or thereabouts seems to be about the go for an internally gated 35/40R. Does this seem about right? Anyone have any thoughts on internal vs external gates?
Project megap00 - Gave up and sold up. Money tree died
Good quality shocks and much firmer springs are the most important chassis mods, but I'd also recommend adjustable camber front and rear, upgraded sway bars and of course replace any bushes/balljoints etc which look a bit ordinary.Originally Posted by whatthe?
I drove around with 236rwkw and crappy suspension for a while (Kings + KYB's), and it was terrifying how quickly you could go from "all good" to "holy crap I fucked up bad". If you're shooting for even more power, look out!![]()
Oh and don't forget you'll need to pay serious attention to the brakes, if you haven't done so already. Stock MA61 brakes, even with good pads/rotors, are way below adequate at this power level.
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
Brakes are already taken care of, nissan z31 calipers with slotted rotors on the front and new slotted rotors/comp pads on stock rears.
All new bushes + new springs and shocks were definitely going to precede new engine going in.
Project megap00 - Gave up and sold up. Money tree died
I'm guessing that a turbonetics super T72 is overkill?![]()
Project megap00 - Gave up and sold up. Money tree died
would u get the same power with a 1JZGTE and a turbo + exhaust? it would be a hell of alot cheaper and probably more reliable too
Yeah, probably. But wheres the fun in that?
Project megap00 - Gave up and sold up. Money tree died
Two things.
Firstly, anything over 250rwkw in the mk2 poopra is really unpleasant. Trust me.
Secondly, if you are hell bent on reaching the afterlife in 3.2 seconds... sideways... 400rwkw is not out of the question from a 7M. But I'd REALLY suggest that if you're chasing a massive number like that, to get the block X-rayed. FIRST thing you should do.
No point spending big dollars on balancing, honing, porting, de-burring, aftermarket parts, etc, if the block is just going to shit itself at the first sign of power. A lot of blocks have heaps of hairline cracks, which under normal operation doesn't make two hoots of difference. Starting really pushing them though, and they'll open up like a drunk prom date.
Most 7M's have had a pretty long, hard life by this stage too, and have usually overheated or been rebuilt at least once - so finding a block worthy of 400+rwkw might be trickier than you think. Of course it could be easy as pie too - you should just be careful is all.
Trust Joorsh, he knows about drunk prom dates.
Does a potato coating help to hold it together or i that just the BHG solution?
Last edited by clubagreenie; 18-11-2005 at 01:28 AM. Reason: I cnat speel
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would a 1JZGTE with a turbo kit be cheaper, more compact, more reliable, easier, lighter, etc???
A built 7m done right should be as reliable as a stock 1J with gigantic turbo.
It's just going to cost shitloads more $$$.
Plus the worked 7m seems to be a hell of a lot more fun to drive than a 1J, but i cant comment on a comparison with a stock 7m.
The doubters will get schooled in the near future.
600 Club Member: Toymods Large Member
MegaP00 - 7MGTE Skunkworks division
RIP - Nathan Dean (TA-022)
yes you could in theory make it as reliable, but damn the 1J you could use stock, and once u wear it out you can just buy another one cheap. Although I admit the gearbox is an issue.
So what happens in a MK2 with over 250rwkw? does it start to twist the body or something?
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