JZA70 draining battery.

[EldarO]

hey all, i made the mistake of buying a gay odessey battery, and now my cars playing up.

basically if i leave it for two days, it wont turn over, one day, it struggles, but starts.

im wondering how i can test whats draining it.

i had a massive 780cca battery powering it before, now replaced by a 240cca one, so the issue may have been there before, but the battery masked it.

im wondering if a bodgy immobiliser, fucked alternator etc. could be causing it?

the car starts, runs, boosts, etc perfectly, theres nothing wrong with it, just this farken sheet.

cheers!

[Hengsta]

Im having the same problem since i have owned the car.

A guy i know had the same problem with his daughter Sprinter. He put in a new alternator, starter motor and battery. Still the battery went dead after a week. Turns out the alarm was draining the battery so he changed that and had no problems after that.

Could be the problem your having?

Got a feeling my alternator is on its last legs cause i dont really use my alarm as much anymore and still drainning my battery.

[Draven]

240cca is a very small amount for a jza70 I would have thought.

Perhaps only when it's absolutely fully charged can it crank that bitch over?

I'd have gone minimum 300cca (I'm also doing battery searches at the moment)

[EldarO]

i had another look and its actually 280cca.

so meh

it cranks it fine, and even a day of drainage is still enough to get it to start, however over a day and it just does the starter ticky thing.

i think ill just remove the immobiliser/alarm altogether and see if thats my problem, ive got a new one sitting here waiting to go in anyway, the old install is fairly standard, a.k.a couldnt be worse.

[LeeRoy]

You'll need to remove all the fuses one by one and test for current draw. Then, using a wiring diagram see whats on that circuit and disconnect things one by one until the draw becomes zero - then you'll know what it is.

I'd say its probably the alarm.

[EldarO]

how does one test for current draw.

keep in mind that i want confirmation, so im not stuck spending hours doing the same shit for no reason because of a tiny oversight.

[Pimpin_1JZ]

Eldar, say if you start your car up. Turn it off, then disconnect the positive battery lead, do you hear and sounds? Say possibly a clicking sound as you disconnect it? ie it may be a relay thats staying on for some reason. Usually if it is a relay thats staying on when the battery is connected if you remove it and put it back in again it will usually click. Also it would be hot to touch from being on for so long. Do you have a circuit tester?

[EldarO]

i do have a circuit tester.

and that was my first thought, maybe a boot light etc staying on.

ive found precisely fuck all.

[greywolf]

Earth contacts are all clean, not rusty at all ?

[EldarO]

perfect!

98% of fasteners on the car are brand spanking new.

all of the earths, as well as the main power wires are all shiny new, as well as terminals and connectors.

im just baffled as to when it started.

whether the old, mammoth battery masked the problem.

[greywolf]

Got an amp ? Like a big, honking mofo ?

How is it wired up ?

[EldarO]

no amp.

only stereo gear is head unit and 4 4" speakers.

[greywolf]

Well there goes that idea.

[Gavatron]

• Have the car off, no accessories or ignition.
• Get your multimeter out, plug the positive probe lead in to the 10A terminal.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
• Put one lead on the negative post on the battery and one lead on the negative terminal. Don't let the negative terminal touch the negative post on the battery while doing this.

This is how much current the car is drawing constantly. It should be fuck all, under .1 amps or even less. If it draws more, you start unplugging shit or pulling fuses until it goes away. Whatever fuse you pull/thing you unplug when it drops is what is draining the battery.

[EldarO]

thats exactly what i was thinking of doing, however i thought it to simple to make sense

thanks!