You guys are thinking too much.
Just solder the 2 parts of the shields together and all will be well.
I wonder if after you solder the connectors & insulate them etc, you then wrapped aluminium foil around & over the break area & had it also touching the original shielding material if that would work ?? Then wrap up with more insulation tape ..
You guys are thinking too much.
Just solder the 2 parts of the shields together and all will be well.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
As above. Soldered wires back together, then soldered shielding back together and heatshrunk. Will whack it back in tonight and she'll be apples *fingers crossed*
|| 91 MX83 Cressida Grande 1JZGTE - Daily || 84 MA61 Supra 2JZGE - Track ||
better yet if you want to do it the proper way you can strip back the wires use a butt splice (no solder required) then use heat shrink. Much better way of doing it.
Last edited by winnie_man; 18-03-2009 at 09:12 PM.
IS200 with JDM style....
Since it's permanent you may as well solder it. The shielding needs to be wrapped around the outside though so no butt splicing there.
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
Are you kidding? Solder weakens the insulation not only that its more prone to fail. But splicing is the industry standard for connecting two wires, at least in the Aviation industry but I suppose a FA18 doesn't need the high quality job donking a blob of solder on two wires can provide.
Normally in aircraft (especially ones pulling 7-8lateral g's) you cut, strip, but splice, heatshrink or better yet re loom.
IS200 with JDM style....
So how exactly do you splice metal mesh shielding together?
|| 91 MX83 Cressida Grande 1JZGTE - Daily || 84 MA61 Supra 2JZGE - Track ||
strip shielding to required length then crimp with one of these bad boys.http://www.tech-cor.net/AutoResBulle...95-4-IMG01.JPG once done use shielded heat shrink.
IS200 with JDM style....
Nice. If only I had this sort of stuff available. But this will do.
|| 91 MX83 Cressida Grande 1JZGTE - Daily || 84 MA61 Supra 2JZGE - Track ||
Yes and this car is not a multi-million dollar fighter aircraft with critical real-time systems in place. A properly done solder join is more than adequate here. It funny you mention standards in the aviation industry, I happen to know a Licenced Aircraft Maintenance Engineer (with Cat. B1 and B2 licences) who also did the wiring on our personal homebuilt plane and guess what - solder joins were also used. It perfectly suitable for certain conditions, provided someone experienced is performing the work, as you would expect with all wiring work.
I'm not trying to shoot down butt splicing here, but you have to realise that neither one is the be all and end all. A splice is just as likely to run the risk of letting go, indeed I have seen more improperly done splices in my time than solder joins.
You see very much he could quickly repair this 5 minutes with some soldering gear he'd more likely have at home, or wait while he gathers the particular joiners he needs.
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
BUT i must warn you being that this cable is used for AC and is prone to interference especially being in an engine bay with a heap of rotating part all generating there own frequencies and inducing into your highly valuable ignition units and coils you probably want to re terminate with Shielded figure 8.
IS200 with JDM style....
Avionics or Mechanical because its funny that you mention that as NO avionics technician would terminate two wires together using solder in that manner maybe using a solder sleeve but that's getting lazy especially something that flies, Its just in there nature. I'm on my way to my cat1 for LAME's avionics.
Back on topic the reason I say to do it this way is the cable u are using is an AC cable. The last thing u need is voltages induced into this wire (hence the stock steel braid your talking about) and causing a miss trigger which could result in misfiring and a world of hurt. Do yourself a favour before you go put boost in this monster re terminate with the shielded fig8 I was talking about earlier jaycar should have some. See if you can remove the pins from the plugs and take them into jaycar as well as they should be able to either hand some over or point you in the right direction.
IS200 with JDM style....
Wow, sounds like we are tying to make this really hard?
I would solder the wires back together, and use heat shrink. Whoever suggested to use tape is a dork, it sucks in comparison to heat shrink.
If you are concerned about the shield, what I would do is leave ~ 1-2cm of shield past the end of both the sides of the wires, pull the shield back to solder the two wires together (Heatshrink both wires).
Lay the shields over each other and then use some larger heat shrink (already on wires) over shields where they overlap to connect them....
Cheers
Wilbo
Too late, just took it for it's first on-boost drive. Loved it. No misfires.
I hooked it up to the handheld scope I borrowed from work. Nice consistent signal with no noticeable interferance at any RPM. The wiring runs right next to the alternator, so any interference should be constantly there.
Thanks everyone for all of your help.
|| 91 MX83 Cressida Grande 1JZGTE - Daily || 84 MA61 Supra 2JZGE - Track ||
Sweet, I'm glad you used a crow to check out the wires. I'd seriously look into reterminating the wire though...
IS200 with JDM style....
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