1JZGTE Instantaneous Fail

[PlacentaJuan]

thats wierd after the water thing i would have bet on a wet connection (happened to me when i high pressure hosed my engine bay, took about 30mins of driving for it to dry out and run properly)

unless the water has somehow fucked a sensor completely.

[Gavatron]

Well, injectors are not pulsing, unlike what I first thought. So it seems most likely CAS, though I don't know how I could have fucked it.

Wet connection was my thought, but I blew out nearly every connection with compressed air and it has been sitting for 2 days now.

Is the only plug for the CAS sensor the one behind the alternator? Or is there another plug right on the sensor? I bet it's in a shit **** of a spot too.

[skin]

far as i know thats the only one

[CrUZida]

3 sensors, one on the crank, 2 on the inlet cam (one at the front, one at the rear)

[Gavatron]

I should have said the crank angles sensor. Just that one plug? Is there a resistance check I can do on the sensors?

[CrUZida]

yeah, ~160ohms from memory, but they may differ.
Check from the ecu end, that way it checks the sensor and all the plugs.
Crank the engine with the ecu unplugged and measure for AC voltage across the pins too.

[Gavatron]

Okie dokie. Will check all 3 from ECU end. Shouldn't be a large AC voltage right?

[Gavatron]

OK then. After many curses at the size of my multimeter probes, I got some results that make me annoyed.

Cam Sensor 1: 1.1 kilo-ohms, with an AC spike while cranking.
Cam Sensor 2: 1.1 kilo-ohms, with an AC spike while cranking.
Crank Sensor: 0.7 ohms and SFA when cranking. Also got the same 0.7 ohms and SFA when probing at the connector behind the alternator, straight onto the two pins from the CAS.

So, does this mean that the two wires have shorted? Or that the CAS is fubar? Can you remove the CAS with everything in situ? Or is it a complete from-of-the-motor disassembly?

[Gavatron]

You know when you have that moment when everything falls into place? Just happened.

Pulling out the alternator to get to the CAS, unbolted CAS, undid both clips, didn't come out. I fitted a new thermostat when I had the motor out. When I was doing the coolant on Sunday, I noticed I hadn't done up one of the nuts on the housing. Did it up, thinking nothing of it. The reason the CAS didn't want to come out was because it was jammed in betweek the two thermostat housing and was crushed. Giving me 0.7 ohms resistance and no signal, and throwing Code 12.

I present, my fuckup


Do you guys think it will be alright to solder back up? Do I need to add the shielding around it like it has now? Or will that little gap be insignificant?

[JZX083]

G'day mate,
Thats a bit of a shit, never mind these things happen.
Being the CAS and so close to the Alternator I personally would try soldering the shielding back together. Just incase it does pick up any noise from the power cables in that area.

[Officer Doofy]

LOL thats gold, and well done for being a man and showing us all your fuckup. Resolder and shrinkwrap and hope for the best?

[Gavatron]

You know it. It's actually not too much of a **** to get out. So if it fucks out I'll get a new one.

[PlacentaJuan]

thats easy fix man..

strip everything back and resolder the conductors.

use electrical tape for the first payer of insulation, then some new heatshrink for the outer wrap.

i love it when something that looks like it might be complicated end up being something easy and stupid that you fucked up.

[Gavatron]

It's not the insulation I'm worried about. It had an earthed shield of mesh over it to protect from electrical interferance. I'll figure something out.

[JZX083]

Yeah man,
Try soldering the shield back together. If your worried about ive got a spare sensor with the cable you can have.