22r rebuild problem

[soulfire]

motor is now running,

oil galleries were missing. now have oil pressure and oil not coating my driveway anymore!

selling motor because i'm over twin-carbs before i even used them =p

[mudgutts]

so what were you going to put it in anyway?

why not go EFI? Turbo?

[mudgutts]

oh, and I scan this for you to help if it could. guess it's not needed now. :-)

[o_man_ra23]

I wouldn't give up just yet. Twin carbs are a pain in the arse to setup, but once running, they give great joy. Oh, and if your going to sell it, sell it whole. A full running motor has a much better chance of being slotted in somewhere immediately than a couple of halves. This would make a great motor for somebody with an RA60 as not only would it slot in the OEM spot seamlessly, they don't need to worry about the carbs for emmissions/roadworthy etc.

In short, do every bit of research you can to learn how to tune twin carbs, and keep the damn motor!! You have put too much effort in to let it go now!! Check out the Tractor Engine thread for the 18R-G's theres info on tuning in there.

[soulfire]

Thanks for the kind words Owen!

I had a bit of a weak moment on saturday and hastily just put my motor for sale.

However on sunday, after a few beers and having some good mates around, I've decided I'm going to stick with it.

The oil pressure issue is now gone, however, the motor was still leaking a small amount of oil from the head?

I'm going to take the head off to inspect, but I have a feeling it hasn't seated properly!

Thanks once again everyone,

when I take the motor apart again I am going to make a thread with pics of where every oil gallery is in a 21 / 22r because I feel a lot of people could miss these as there is absolutely no mention of them in the FSM (wtf toyota?!?!)

[o_man_ra23]

Where in the head is the leak?? Is it leaking into a combustion chamber, water gallery, or off to the side of the block/garage floor?? The 2 most common places for a leak are the cam end seal/s, and the join between the head and timing cover. Oh, and I think the tappet cover bolts are a likely source too. I personally would do everything I could before de-tensioning the head. Though if it's where the timing cover meets the head, then removing the head and adding silicone to that area of the head gasket ONLY will likely be your only sure method of solving the problem.

[neal]

spray some hylomer on your head gaskit, maily where the leak is from. But if you head gaskit isn't sealing you should be takinf a close look at your prep work as in the flatness of the surfaces.
But you should be using a new head gaskit. are you or not?

[o_man_ra23]

neal is correct that you should use a new head gasket if you de-tension it. They are designed to deform when compressed, taking up the minute imperfections and sealing where required, thus re-tensioning in a slightly different spot (probably a few thou off if that much) will crush onto different imperfections, and the previous deformation points will provide a weakness which will come back to bite you once you decide to go on a long trip to the middle of nowhere.

Before rushing into solutions, you need to fully investigate and identify the cause of the leak.

[soulfire]

Owen & Neal, thanks once again.

I haven't begun to strip anything off the motor yet, as that is fairly irrational for how little is leaking from the front area of the head.

The only 2 places it is leaking is on the intake side at the front (really close to timing cover) and on the exhaust side closish to the front again...

I will post pictures, but I have a feeling this will go away once the head is torqued down again after the run-in...

One thing I have learnt over my many years of working into cars, that rushing into fix problems only causes more. You always get more solved when you sit down and have a look at what's going on.

I'm totally lost as to how I should start trying to tune these twin carbs, but I'm going to sit down with these 2tg FSM scans I have and see if I can get it to atleast idle properly... it's rev hunting all over the shop, and I have a feeling one carb is sucking in more than the other...

[mudgutts]

do you have a manometer (vac guage, carb syncronizer)? motorbike shops have the for balancing quad & Twin carbs on bikes.

If you fuel bowls are level and the same, and they're jetted the same and were cleaned and serviced before fitting. should be just a matter of balancing them.

got pics?

[neal]

Soulfire: i haven't worked on 22re but is your head sitting on the rear timing cover? if so did you get the cover decked with the block?

[neal]

Soulfire: how are you planning on doing the re-torque of the head?

[soulfire]

neal - Head sits over the timing cover on a 22re and yes, it was with the block and was machined with the block so it sits true, i've put a straight edge over it and it was fine.

mudguts - haven't got said gauge, I rebuilt these myself, so I probably haven't screwed things in as per factory etc, the idle is so damn rough, and when you go to open the accel, it just dies (sounds like fuel is just being dumped in)
it might be best to get these over to a carb shop for proper adjustment first

[soulfire]

Soulfire: how are you planning on doing the re-torque of the head?

I have been told after 500kms to take the tapper cover off and re-torque the head to specs as everything is bedding in and moving around a bit, the head bolts can losen off a bit?

Keeping in mind this is the first motor i've built, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

regards,

[o_man_ra23]

Loosen the bolts a touch before you re-torque them, to remove stiction which will prevent a true reading. Do them one at a time (ie loosen then torque, go to next bolt, loosen then torque and so on)