Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: mz20 eginle light and not running propley ???

  1. #1
    Junior Member 1st year Apprentice
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    QLD
    Posts
    13

    Default mz20 eginle light and not running propley ???

    hi ive got a mz20 soarer with a 7mgte auto in it.
    the engine light is on. i bridged out 2 of the connectors in the diagnostics plug and the auto over drive light started to blink. from what i can tell it blink 6_3 over and over.
    what the f**k does that mean ?
    and it is very hard to start but idles fine.
    if you bring the revs up to quickly it dies and if not just sounds all retarted and starts to back fire.
    if you bring the revs up slowley if revs up its fine. if you let the revs drop back eg taking foot off accelerator pedal it will drop back to about 300 rpm run ruff and than stall.
    and yeah it wont boost if you drive it down the road and spool the turbo up it just loses all power and sound retarded untill you back off ?
    there is no leaks in the inter cooler piping or any other vac leaks as ive spent houres checking.

    thanks

  2. #2
    "it went up in a jiffy" Conversion King Kedderz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    SA
    Posts
    2,280

    Default Re: mz20 eginle light and not running propley ???

    could be timing/intercooler pipe off/afm rooted or bhg.
    RA23 - Twincharged
    JZZ20 - Daily

  3. #3
    Junior Member Carport Converter Z2TT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    1,612

    Default Re: mz20 eginle light and not running propley ???

    Hi,

    You are getting Code 63 - Severed No 2 solenoid or short circuit - severed wiring harness or short circuit. On my car the OD/OFF light would flash to indicate transmission related errors where as on yours the Check engine light flashes for ECT errors, but I have a GZ20.

    The shift solenoids inside your automatic transmission allow fluid to flow to the proper area's needed to change gears. When one shift solenoid does not function, the transmission will go into "limp" mode, that means it will try to guess which gear to go into, so often it will be slipping in and out of gears, and often when taking off from the lights it will try to take off in a higher gear.

    This is a common problem with A340E's. The common causes are :

    1. Bad contact in wiring harness, check near the bell housing where the wiring connectors from the transmission go up toward the firewall.

    2. Solenoid not getting contact, this is the most common cause. You will have to drain your oil pan off the transmission, now you will be able to see 3 solenoids, take each solenoid off and test it with a multimeter.

    You will see a little solder joint on the outer body of the solenoid, some solenoids on the A340e have a bad joint from factory, this is what causes the problem.

    Sometimes it's the black coating that is on the solenoids that causes a bad earth. With sandpaper scrape some of the coating off at the mounting point where the bolt goes, Do the same to the bolt. Use a star washer when putting the solenoid back on as the bumps will dig in and make contact.

    When I had the same error as you, it was the black coating on the solenoid that was causing a bad earth

    To test if there is continuity in the wire from the solenoid to the ECU, you must take the glovebox out and take the ECU connectors out. You will then have to search for a pinouts diagram that shows which pin hole on the ECU's connectors are for the solenoids. Now that you have found the pinholes for the solenoids you need to use a multimeter. You will also have to find out which solenoid on the transmission is the 1-2, 2-3 and lockup solenoid, otherwise you cannot test properly.

    So lets say we are testing the wire for the 2-3 Solenoid (One that corresponds to the error code you get). You will take the solenoid off, forget the solenoid as we are not testing it, we are testing the continuity in the wire. Now get a long piece of wire from dick smith or from your house. Now one end of the wire you will push into the slot on your ECU connector that is for the 2-3 solenoid (use a pinout diagram to find out which slot it is). Make sure that the wire is inserted firmly into the slot so it makes contact. Now you will run that wire outside the door and down to your transmission.

    So now we have a wire that is in your transmission that is where the solenoid was, that goes up toward the firewall and into your ECU. is what you have done is extended that wire from where it is supposed to connect to the ECU and made it go down to your transmission again.

    So now is all you have to do is test that circuit for resistance with a multimeter. If you get infinite resistance then the circuit is not complete, meaning there is a bad contact somewhere in the wire going from the transmission to where it plugs into the ECU. Be sure that you plugged your test wire into the slot firmly, otherwise that could be why you are getting infinite resistance.
    Last edited by Z2TT; 22-02-2009 at 03:18 PM.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •