1GGTE distributor cap and rotor button

[Big rob]

Does anyone know where I can purchase these two items?

My car came to a halt last night and through inspection I found the bolt which holds the button to the shaft stuck to one of the relluctor magnets. The rotor button contacts are very pitted and there are carbon tracks on the distributor cap so it's not worth reusing them.

Rob

[Big rob]

Does anyone have at least some part numbers?

I just spoke with Toyospares in Bayswater, he tried to source a rotor button a few years ago and ex Japan it was going to cost $300 !

Would anyone know if it was possible to fit the shaft and pickups to a different body so a more common rotor button and cap could be used?

Rob

[Brad-KE35]

Try getting a GZE CAS that would be possibly cheaper than $300 bucks.

Just a thought Rob.

Brad

[Big rob]

It looks like the igniter/coil may have also laid down, plugged a spark plug and lead onto it and when grounded there is no spark while cranking.

It was really strange I was just driving home and the engine just died like the ignition was turned off and the starter would not engage. I've got the starter engaging again but the car wont start.

[TheToyman75]

Big Rob,

The Dizzy Caps are not expensive Ex Toyota its just the rotor button that tears you a new one.

I would be checking your wiring beofre I spend any coin.

[Big rob]

I am a little unsure what connections to check to the igniter but there is 12v going to it. I measured the coil resistances and they are in spec with a 7mge primary and secondary coil.

All the high tensions leads are less than 2 years old and look fine they are also connected correctly.

When I pulled the distributor apart the bolt which retains the rotor button to the shaft had worked its self loose, this is what I initially thought was the problem.

I called Toyospares about the dizzy and as you said toyman the dizzy caps aren't so bad but rotor buttons are around $300 ex Japan.

Also does anyone know why there are two arms on the dizzy button firing 135deg apart? For example if #1 fired directly on 360deg #3 would fire somewhere towards the end of the combustion stroke, would this be emissions related?

Rob

[v8gz20]

big rob were abouts are you in vic
ive got cap and leads that are in good nick but the button a bit sad

[Big rob]

Greensborough. My rotor button is also a bit sad, all the contacts a terribly pitted.

[v8gz20]

im doing a conversion on my soarer so i dont need a lot of 1g bits so let me know what you need and ill see if ican help

[Big rob]

Hey mate if I could borrow a few piece just to confirm that mine are dead and then purchase them from you that would be great.

[v8gz20]

yea no worries put up a list of what you need and ill see if i got it

[Big rob]

All I need is ignitor/coil and rotor/cap.

[chris_rg]

Also does anyone know why there are two arms on the dizzy button firing 135deg apart? For example if #1 fired directly on 360deg #3 would fire somewhere towards the end of the combustion stroke, would this be emissions related?

Rob

I noticed this, The way i think it works is like this:

Cylinder 1,2 & 3 are on the inside arm.
Cylinder 4,5 & 6 are on the outside arm.

There is a hefty plastic divider in the cap so that spark will not jump across. The firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4. This means you get an inside post then outside post alternating.

Ultimately it means the dizzy cap can be of smaller diameter and have a good range of advance without the risk of the spark jumping to the wrong post. In a normal 6 cyl dizzy it would have to jump 360/6 = 60deg. With this design it has to jump 120deg, or over a thick piece of insulating plastic barrier.

Anyway, thats my theory.

[chris_rg]

Would someone be able to do me a favour?

My engine is running on cylinders 1,2 & 3 only and I suspect the rotor, since the ecu seems to be sending the correct frequency coil signal.

I suspect may be one arm of the rotor is broken, or may be even both.

Can someone take their dizzy cap off and measure the resistance between the centre and each arm of the rotor. Now I'm not sure if it should be measurable or not, both my rotor arms read as open circuit on my Fluke meter. I thought there could be a spark gap or something inside the rotor.

Big rob, sorry for the thread hijack!

Thanks
Chris

[Big rob]

I am reading an infinite resistance too.

Regarding the twin arm you are exactly correct. When I looked at the cap/rotor the other day I immediately assumed there was a pair of contacts for each cylinder. Looking at other distributors like the 7MGE it is much larger to prevent arching and more than likely the overall size would prevent it fitting between #1 compressor inlet and the thermostat.