Breaking a GZE piston or rod

[30psi 4agte]

That is alot of power you are making. Is your bottom end stock gze bigport rods and low comp gze pistons? Arp bolts on everything or factory bolts? Stock headgasket or aftermarket? Amazing and very inspirational to know our engines can take a pounding stock with a proper tune.

Ron

My bottom end is sort of stock It has had a fair bit of work done to it. The pistons are GZE AE92 (ceramic coated)
Rods are also the chunkier AE92 rods. All of my stuff has been shot peened sonicly relieved for stress and treated.
Head gasket is HKS and ARP everything!

Just wait theres more power on its way VERY soon!

[kingmick]

true.. the dude could have exaggerated about not having oil.. but it's not my story

the place where i used to work once did a service on a camry and the apprentice started the car without filling back the oil or putting back the sump nut. Car ran for 10 mins or so literally before it started making really bad noises. stopped it straight away, fill back the oil, filter etc and yea it still goes fine.

lol let me guess it was a dealer mechanic!
it would have done bearing damage at the least if it was making noise. there would have been wear all over the place from no lube! poor blokes car!lol
hahaha i can assure you it still wasnt fine! it would have taken a large chunck of the engines life away. leaving your oil change for 20k km will do damage so no oil will always do some type of damage.

same as you could take a 4ag to 700hp but it will not last long.
with aftermarket quailty parts you are just making it last longer at the bigger power level and giving insurance against hickups like detenation etc.

[kingmick]

My bottom end is sort of stock It has had a fair bit of work done to it. The pistons are GZE AE92 (ceramic coated)
Rods are also the chunkier AE92 rods. All of my stuff has been shot peened sonicly relieved for stress and treated.
Head gasket is HKS and ARP everything!

Just wait theres more power on its way VERY soon!

leak test it all the time and i think you will get a shock! at that power level it will be wearing things out in the whole engine,big time. at that power level id be checking the main bearings all the time. if you want to do it in the car, just hoist it and drop the sump off and take one main cap off at a time in the right order. then look at bottom bearing and use a stiff nylon{like thick wiper sniper chord} or if your carefull,wire, and spin the top bearing out.
quality controll on bearing material leaves a lot to be desired.
just a hint for you!

[30psi 4agte]

Ah cheers for the tip m8 but its cool

Im a mechanic and have been building 4age s for about 7 years now.
The only shock i get when i leak test it is that its perfect.(sometimes i cant believe it after the punishment it cops.)
I have never had the comp alter by more than 4 psi.


The motor is pulled down regularly but you would be very suprised as to the amount of engine wear at this sort of power level.
I pay VERY VERY careful attention to bearing clearences when i build these things and over the years have worked out what is best for my setup.

No word of a lie after 1000km and over 65 full on 30 psi power runs on the dyno i pulled it down and ALL bearings were so perfect that i could have honestly put them back in the box and returned them !!!!!

It looked like the crank had never even touched the bearings NO SH1T !!

[RonRob]

This is absolutely incouraging information 30psi. I had no idea exactly how robust and durable our 4a's are. Obviously tuning and intercooling plays a big part In reliablility, but it appears that if those areas are addressed the 4a can take alot. Are you using the Oil squirter block? I take it you are using Ae92 early pistons with Ae92 late rods. You mentioned low comp gze pistons and thicker Ae92 rods. Sorry for all the questions, I am trying to be clear on your setup.

Thanks
Ron

[Shifty]

Like many modern engines, particularly Toyota engines, almost all failures are as a result of an external influence rather than a failure of the rod/piston itself. Ignition/fuelling issues and gross over-revving are likely to be the only causes.

An example is the 7MGTE, a lot of people poo-hoo them for being shit motors, but 400+ rwhp is not generally an issue on factory rods & pistons with a safe tune.... the same with the 1JZ & 2JZ, the capabilities of the motor are really only as high as those of the tuner, driver and accessories. You can kill a $20,000 bottom end by buzzing it or running it out of fuel... and i've seen near-stock 1JZs and RB30s completely destroyed by detonation.

[30psi 4agte]

RONROB

Nah they are the high comp pistons and matching rods.
I just use a head gasket to bring the comp back down to 8:1

[kingmick]

so your using a 3mm copper gasket then! why not just a set of gze slugs?

[30psi 4agte]

Nah a 2mm HKS steel shim Job

They are GZE slugs.I use the high comp ones cos i like them better than the low comp ones

[kingmick]

i only asked because i thought when a cc'd mine it worked out 3mm to drop 8.9 down to 8. been awhile since i looked at it!lol now i think of it i think i took it down to 7.5. memories going!lmao
i used a 3mm copper

[RonRob]

Nah a 2mm HKS steel shim Job

They are GZE slugs.I use the high comp ones cos i like them better than the low comp ones

Is there a reason as to why you like the high comps better. Also, I see you are using the largeport head any reasons why you have not chosen the small port and are you running the oil squirter block which matches your piston and rod combo?

Currently making 182kw with my small port Gze all supercharged, and looking to get to 200kw at the wheels and knowing how robust the 4a is, I am now only concerned with the tune at this point and insuring charge temps are down. I like to keep charge temps 40C and lower if possible.

Thanks
Ron

[30psi 4agte]

Is there a reason as to why you like the high comps better. Also, I see you are using the largeport head any reasons why you have not chosen the small port and are you running the oil squirter block which matches your piston and rod combo?

Currently making 182kw with my small port Gze all supercharged, and looking to get to 200kw at the wheels and knowing how robust the 4a is, I am now only concerned with the tune at this point and insuring charge temps are down. I like to keep charge temps 40C and lower if possible.

Thanks
Ron

182 kw supercharged? is this at the wheels??? If so thats an killer effort .
What SC are you using?

Its just what came with the motor i bought. I do like their design better than the low comps better though ( just the ceramic coating etc)

There is two reasons for using the big port head.
1. When i first started playing with 4age s i had a big port motor and ended up turboing that ( I broke everthing you can break!! ) Cause i ported the head i decided to use it on my GZE bottom end.

2. You cant beat flow!!!!!!!!!!!!! . I dont really care for response only power/top end so using the big port head was natural.
The small port head is good dont get me wrong but it can become a restriciton at very high hp.

[omy]

How are the std gze rods in a 200rwkw application?

[RonRob]

182 kw supercharged? is this at the wheels??? If so thats an killer effort .
What SC are you using?

Yes that is at the wheels. I am using the Twinscrew supercharger and thanks for the kind words. 182kw at the wheels untuned. Hoping to get it tuned soon to get the curves better. Here is the last dyno plot





Ron

[Cameron_Datto]

[QUOTE=RonRob]Yes that is at the wheels. I am using the Twinscrew supercharger and thanks for the kind words. 182kw at the wheels untuned. Hoping to get it tuned soon to get the curves better.



How much boost are you running to get 182 kw ? What are the specs of your engine ?