ca18de into ke55 will this engine do the job?

[mullett]

35psi would take a BIG turbo, and all the supporting mods as well.

CA18DE+T is a pretty well trodden path, 10psi should be OK, but 7 would be safer. You can use the DET ECU to cut back on costs. That said, by the time you've sourced all the bits and done all the stuffing around, you might as well just buy a CA18DET motor setup and be done with it. End of the day, it's still better, and would probably be no more expensive..

-RM

[XR Pilot]

I see no problem running 10 pound through a CA18DE provided its intercooled and tuned properly on a dyno. The DE/DET's are very similar, basically the DET has lower compression (can't remember how much) and has oil squirters. Chipping CA18 ecu's is pretty common now, I've done a few and I'd just use the DE ecu if your planning on turboing it. You can scale the original ecu for larger injectors and air flow meter later on when you need to.

As said though, buying a CA18DET when you decide to turbo would prob be the better option as you get the exhaust manifold, turbo, bigger injectors (you will outflow them around 220rwhp), stronger gearbox etc over a DE. Add that cost up and a CA18DET would be cheaper when the time comes.

[Cuzzo]

Theres some good info here but lots of mis-information.

You need to check out other ke30/55 thread and see what they have done to get around the problems faced when putting an efi engine into one of these.

Some things wrong from mullet on the first page:

You will definitely need a cat on the exhaust.
The diff will not handle this power for very long let alone a turbo motor.You cant find LSD for these diff easily, so your better of going bigger anyway. That alone will cost you 2g's.

You will definetly need to reco the radiator. A 30year old rad will not be upto the task. You will also need to add a thermo fan. 12" minimum.

Id suggest running a new fuel line also.minimum 6mm but 8mm much better.

You dont need to cut the original mounts off the Xmember. Just make brackets and use appropriate rubbers to suit the engine. If for some reason you need to change engines/or cross members you dont want to go through the whole process of cutting the X member again.

Now to get it all legal you will need to upgrade the brakes. Mininum $500 here all round.

You need to research more because i could keep typing all day. Theres heaps of info on rollas these days. If you cant find any on the net come to cruises and check out the cars.

Edit: Another thing. If you turbo it be prepared to spend another 3-4 K easily. Conversions are not cheap!

[xjaxsonx]

thanks heeps because i have a person building that car for me now it shouldnt be as much of a pain. and its not going to cost shit loads because he is working on it in this spare time not a full out non stop job. because he has over 6 months to get the car running.

thanks heeeeeeps for the info i will talk to him about the whole turboing charging the ca18de or buying whole new engine = )

[mullett]

You will definitely need a cat on the exhaust.
The diff will not handle this power for very long let alone a turbo motor.You cant find LSD for these diff easily, so your better of going bigger anyway. That alone will cost you 2g's.

I may be wrong for the eastern states, but I know that in WA (at least when I was looking into it) you only need to fit the minimum emissions equiptment that that *car* came out with, or the minimum standards for that year. Hence cat is not required unless the car is built after 1986.

The info i was giving was also based on a straight NA swap, the std diff would never handle the power of a turbo motor, but would probably be OK with the NA motor unless it was badly thrashed.

The method of mounting the motor (to remove and replace the mounts) is just my preference because it's neater and keeps the loadings on the X member square, it's also easier to get engineered if they're re-welded.

Not having a go at you mate...

-RM.

[Cuzzo]

I may be wrong for the eastern states, but I know that in WA (at least when I was looking into it) you only need to fit the minimum emissions equiptment that that *car* came out with, or the minimum standards for that year. Hence cat is not required unless the car is built after 1986.

The info i was giving was also based on a straight NA swap, the std diff would never handle the power of a turbo motor, but would probably be OK with the NA motor unless it was badly thrashed.

The method of mounting the motor (to remove and replace the mounts) is just my preference because it's neater and keeps the loadings on the X member square, it's also easier to get engineered if they're re-welded.

Not having a go at you mate...

-RM.

Yeah i wasnt having a go either. NA probably still wouldnt handle it. But end of the day driving style definetly helps.

[xjaxsonx]

Yeah i wasnt having a go either. NA probably still wouldnt handle it. But end of the day driving style definetly helps.

i will probly keep that diff in there as long as possible just till the car get turboed.
im not going to drive it like a nut case.

[mullett]

For sure...As I understand it it'll be looked after for a while...at least while his parents are in the car for L plates After that...it might not last long

Just read thru your build thread, very impressed mate! I'm about to put a TD04L onto my daily (LT Focus), anything to be aware of with them? I'm staggered by your 154kw at 12psi, I was aiming for 10psi and 110kw...if it got up to anywhere near what yours put out I'd be stoked

-RM.

[mullett]

A mate of mine over here has just said he's looking to get rid of a CA18DET box, looking for about $200 for it, and there might be a flywheel/clutch etc too if he doesn't need it for his conversion (N13 Pulsar) Let me know if you're interested mate...

-RM.

[Cuzzo]

Haha yeah she goes ok

Not really much different. Be aware they have a unique exhaust flange and dump flange (diff to a garrett)

Anywhos thats OT.

Does ACT have same laws as NSW and that would mean no modifications to the car.?

[xjaxsonx]

well my mum works for motor registry and she says that im aloud to do the mods but i have to get it engineered. but there are ways around that ; )

does the ca18det engine use the same mounts as the ca18de engine?? because there is a ca18det on ebay for sale. 1,400 manual, loom, ecu. (fully package)

just that lots of ppl say if you are thinking off turboing a ca18de its just as cheap to get a ca18det and do another conversion.

[mullett]

To be honest mate, you could probably find a full package for $1000, but $1400 isn't bad if you don't have to pay for postage. The engine uses the same mounts, and I'm *fairly* sure that the gearbox does too.

On the other hand, doing this now will mean that you NEED the bigger brakes, suspention, radiator, fuel system and a stronger diff...

I think you're best sticking with the first plan, but with a manual box, as the $1400 is going to use a fair bit of your budget, and you won't have it on the road for a long time by the time you've paid for diff, brakes, etc etc...

-RM.

[xjaxsonx]

yeah very true i will stick with the ca18de.
because when i start planning on turboing this car i wanna try to have as much staff ready as possible so i would like to have the engine, gearbox, loom ECU, brakes, suspen..., diff ready

so i will save up some (lots) of money and have its as ready as i can.

and the man that building my engine, get lots!!!!! of free stuff from the wreckers nextdoor so i hope that saves me some coin.
might be able to score me some better brakes and a diff = )

when you say that the gearbox mounts might be that same. is that only manual to manual and auto to auto?? or could the auto mounts be that same as the manual?

thanks heeeeeps!! dylan

[xjaxsonx]

i have acouple of questions.

im not selling the corolla but if i was to sell its with the silvia (i would part it if wanted) how much would i get.

would it be cheaper for me to get a s13 or 180sx done for my car or go alone with the ca18de to ca18de(t) later on in the ke55?

[Cuzzo]

Definetly will be cheaper getting a cheap nissan.