a nice fuse block will do the trick - maxi blade fuses are quite capable of the current loads potentially required.
.... i hate fusible links....
Can any of you auto leccys suggest a good alternative to a fusible link?? Im thinking just a fuse... work out the size from max demand. Or is there a way to work out the size from the value of the fusible link?? Trying for a simple replacement, something which wont require much modification, and will be quite robust, but blow when required.
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
a nice fuse block will do the trick - maxi blade fuses are quite capable of the current loads potentially required.
.... i hate fusible links....
...... butt scratcher?!
you can buy quite large all-weather fuse holders from Jaycar - is a blade fuse fitting with quite large wire. DSE also sells them.
Or, you get the fuse unit from a FWD camry that attaches to the battery + terminal in place of a fusable link - has 3 spots for large fuses - around 30-40 amsp usually, but a wander thru a wrecking yard will locate larger fuses that all fit in your pocket.
Is what i've used:
-battery in boot
-cable comes up to a marine isolator switch mounted where the battery used to be
-on the other side of that switch is one of those battery-mounted fused boxes plus large leads going to the alternator and starter motor.
See the thing to the right of the switch:
i can try and get a better pic later tonight if it helps.
there is some little shitty car... i think suzuki swift? or daihatsu? which also has a really handy mini blade fuse block..
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
Hmm i cant be arsed installing a new fuse box, as i just put a 22RE into an RA60(the car which has a stuffed fusible link) and had to do a lot of wiring in there... so i might go for one of the blade fuse holders and put some suitable crimp connectors on the wires, and work out the current load. Oh, and chuckster, second hand fuses are asking for trouble mate, i suggest forking out the couple of bucks for new ones of a good quality.
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
my setup doesn't replace the fuse box - just the fusable links.
YEs, i know used fused are asking for trouble - but when stuff is free, it's hard to refuse![]()
is that massive arsed switch to kill the battery? looks awesome![]()
yup - battery power isolator - all power for the car comes via that switch
you can buy them from supacrap now (tho you can go to ARB and pay twice as much for the same thing with a dust shield) and they'll switch up to 400 amps
- tho for proper race cars, isolator switches also have to prevent the alternator from running the electronics so race versions also have a smaller set of terminals used to disconnect power to the alternator.
i'll be also be putting a big circuit breaker down at the battery box.
Why don't you buy the real dea lfrom Toyota? I got the main fusible link for my TA22 GT not so long ago for around $5.....
cheers,
Simon
because fusible links are teh poo
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
What don't you like about them? I've never had an issue with the stock links.
I'm not sure that a 50amp fusible link is the same as a 50 amp fuse....
Cheers,
Simon
The fusible link is meant to blow slower, so that downstream fuses blow first. The problem with this is that they weaken over time. Another problem is that the fusible link isnt inside a protective casing, and can cause molten metal to drip on something and create a short. They are just a bad idea, and i dont think you see too many new cars with them, they all run fuses and circuit breakers.
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
fusible links are GHEY, with aids
replace at all cost!
...... butt scratcher?!
I would advise against using the fuse holders that you've suggested unless they are for low current situations. I've had two of these DSE holders melt on me while the fuse has remained unbroken but very charred. In the pic below the fuse still hasn't actually blown but it's got damn hot. They are rated to take 30A but i definitely wouldn't be using them again for anything important.Originally Posted by thechuckster
The better fuse holders are the black cylindrical ones that take the glass fuses. They're less likely to melt on you. I've also got a self-resetting circuit breaker that i may install instead of the fuse i have at the moment (glass type now, no longer using a blade fuse). It's for my thermo fans so it's important that they come on when needed. The circuit breakers are about $10-15, a little pricey.
Hope that helps.
Simon.
1991 Toyota Cressida (JZX83).
1967 Morris Mini Deluxe (1330cc A+).
Yeah, that looks like a mess alright, but glass fuses are also somewhat GHEY, maybe not with aids tho. Ill look into a higher quality blade holder.
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
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