the_random_hero's TA22, V8 on the way :)

[rob]

wasnt this thread about an RA28?

is it even legal to put a 1UZ into a TA22 in qld?

[Sciflyer]

a) a JZ will be cheaper and make more power. a VVTi 1JZ will make more useable power.
b) the only reason you use a 1UZ is because you either want a V8, or you plan to boost it.
c) the 1uz's powerband is from 3.5k to 5.5k
d) it will need mimimum of 2 cams, and an aftermarket ecu to change that power band (>$$$)

e) the UZ is significantly lighter and in a small car will give better balance and therefore handling

[CrUZida]

Isn't it like 30kg ?

[Mos]

Anyone have a reliable weight for a 1/2JZ?
Coz I do for a 1UZ (and a 7M)... and the numbers aren't as nice as everyone seems to think

[the_random_hero]

wasnt this thread about an RA28?

is it even legal to put a 1UZ into a TA22 in qld?

Was, until I got a TA22 and changed it I've talked to a few engineers, one has said he'll sign it off on GT weight provided I completely upgrade the steering, brakes and suspension.
And yes, I want a V8. Trying to fit IC piping and crap is going to be more of a hassle than I think the extra power is worth. With a couple of mods, 200kW@ rears should be fairly achievable with a nice torque curve - any more power than that and I would never get traction.

[CrUZida]

Fitting IC/piping is a billion times easier than converting to rack and pinion.

But unless you would consider a 1GGTE, its a moot point.

[Sciflyer]

engine weights - for the 1UZ ive seen from 175 to 215kg, as usual the figures are rubbery and no one states exactly what ancillarys this includes.

On Lextreme someone weighed one "with all the headers and stock junk on it" and got 201kg

Errol from RMS is quoting 150kg for his open wheeler 1UZ including flywheel, oil pump, alternator, exhaust headers

Equally rubbery for the JZ's, from 240-280kg, no idea if this includes turbos and what ancillarys

the 7MGTE complete with turbo and A/C compressor has been quoted at 233kg

Just Googled then and funnily enough our thread where we last discussed this came up..

http://www.toymods.net//forums/showthread.php?t=24465

[the_random_hero]

engine weights - for the 1UZ ive seen from 175 to 215kg, as usual the figures are rubbery and no one states exactly what ancillarys this includes.

On Lextreme someone weighed one "with all the headers and stock junk on it" and got 201kg

Errol from RMS is quoting 150kg for his open wheeler 1UZ including flywheel, oil pump, alternator, exhaust headers

Equally rubbery for the JZ's, from 240-280kg, no idea if this includes turbos and what ancillarys

the 7MGTE complete with turbo and A/C compressor has been quoted at 233kg

Just Googled then and funnily enough our thread where we last discussed this came up..

http://www.toymods.net//forums/showthread.php?t=24465

Thanks, just another reason why the 1U is a fairly good choice IMO - good power to weight and won't upset the cars handling too badly.

[Mos]

With a couple of mods, 200kW@ rears should be fairly achievable with a nice torque curve - any more power than that and I would never get traction.

Not a chance - don't kid yourself.
A VVT-i 1UZ has a chance, an early version forget it.
And it's the torque output that will cause traction problems, not the maximum power figure.

engine weights - for the 1UZ ive seen from 175 to 215kg, as usual the figures are rubbery and no one states exactly what ancillarys this includes.
On Lextreme someone weighed one "with all the headers and stock junk on it" and got 201kg

Unless there's a significant difference between a VVT-i and early 1UZ, based on my measurements those figures are a bit conservative.
The VVT-i 1UZ - W58 remote shifter combo, including absolutely everything (all the mounts, headers, accessories, etc) is around 290kg. A bear engine with no accessories (other than intake manifold) is around the 200kg mark.
I have all the individual masses if anyone is interested. (Note that they were weighed with a digital scale with annual calibration that gets used to calibrate medical patient lifter scales).
I don't have the values for the W58 and components on file though - they're at home on paper.

Thanks, just another reason why the 1U is a fairly good choice IMO - good power to weight and won't upset the cars handling too badly.

A 1UZ is a nice engine but don't kid yourself on that one either... a bear 3SGTE long block is around 80kg, so this is a significant increase.
If the car is roughly 50/50 at the moment - ie say 500kg/500kg, then with a 1UZ it would end up being (conservatively) 600/500, ie 55/45.
In a heavier car this will be less noticeable.

Mos.

[CrUZida]

Not a chance - don't kid yourself.
A VVT-i 1UZ has a chance, an early version forget it.

With his planned 'mild cam' it should do it.

[Mos]

With his planned 'mild cam' it should do it.

Ah of course.

Didn't Damien's cammed and 8 TB'ed engine (and manual?) not quite reach 200?

Mos.

[CrUZida]

Not sure, 189rwkW rings a bell ?

The results of cams/etc in 1UZ's is very broad. Some have claimed great gains, others have shown very little gains.

[the_random_hero]

Later model 1UZ-FE has 216kW@fly. With better intake, removing mechanical fan/aircon/powersteering, tuned length headers and ECU I can't see any reason why this couldn't hit 250kW@fly - which should get quite close to the 200kW@rears mark. If I've got any drastic errors in these calculations, please let me know right now
Anyway, a bit of progress on the car. As this is my first project and I'm basically learning as I'm going, I'm sort of getting a bit lost as to what I should do next. If this was your project, what would you do as soon as the car's stripped? Should I attack the rust, or work on getting new suspension/diff/etc fitted?
Speaking of which, what's the best way to attack rust? All I've done so far is soak it in WD40 as a temporary solution. If it's easily accessible, I'm planning on cutting it out/grinding it back, wipe on/off rust converter then etch prime. Will this stop it coming back? What should I for the area's I can't get to? (ie under those rails in the photo).

[CrUZida]

The later model 1UZ is VVTi, and costs a lot more than the early model (as well as being a lot harder to get hold of) and also has a few other nasty surprises to those doing things on a budget.

But yes, 200rwkW should be almost acheivable with one of those.

[Grega]

POR make a good rust repair kit
Is there holes in that, or, will you be able to hit it with a 3M wheel, and, go back to bare, then prime it with the POR stuff (metal ready) then hit it with the POR paint?