Boost control adjustment.

[Farkurnell]

I consider myself a bloke with reasonable intelligence and with a bit of mechanical aptitude but I'll be fucked if I can figure out how this TurboSmart boost control functions. How is it adjusted? Does the screw in the hole in the top have anything to do with it? I can't seem to turn anything other than that screw. All's I want to do is turn the boost up a bit.
Can anyone teach an old dog?








Cheers,Greg.

[Gttwinturbomk3]

How have you fitted this up have you fitted the inlet/outlet the right way? The screw at the top wont do anything its the brass tap/bolt undo and tighten to control bleeding of the air can you not do that is it stuck or something?

[mullett]

I had something simliar, it was an old-school turbosmart dual stage. To adjust, you need a small screwdriver, and you turn the screw in the top. Basically the screw is the needle valve, and when you screw it out, you bypass more air, so you get more boost, screw it hard down and you get factory boost. Start with it screwed all the way in, and then go out half a turn at a time until you start to see a boost increase. Realistically you can go a full turn to save some time, half can get tedious, but keep a close eye on the boost pressure. Once the pressure starts to increase, it doesn't take much adjustment to make an increase, 1/4 turn was good for 1psi on my Skyline once it started...

-RM.

[The Real Roadrunner]

For the Turboxs stuff the screw gets adjusted like mullet said.

Its a small grubscrew with a ball and spring on it, fairly simple.

That said ive never had much luck with them as they have a big tendancy to spike, but try it if you like.

[Farkurnell]

Thanks blokes. It was on the car when I got it. Should I ditch it for something better?

[mullett]

Ah, I see, instead of a needle valve it uses the pressure of the spring to alter when it bypasses. If that does lead to spiking, it's probably best to find an alternative. Since it's there, and didn't cost you anything, I'd try using it and see how it goes, but keep an eye on the boost pressure.

What are the specs on the car? Which motor? Standard ECU, standard boost, etc?

Basically, if the standard boost is 7psi (for example) and you only want to take it up to 10, and the boost cut is at 14, then it should be no problem. If you want to take it to 13.5, then it could be a different ball game

Also: some of the most reliable boost controllers you can buy are needle valves, cheap and reliable as they're built for industrial applications. Most good hydraulic fittings places/fluid control will have them.

-RM.

[Farkurnell]

It's an RB20 with an EMS Stinger ECU. It's running 10lb at the moment and has previously been run at 18lb. I'll have a play with it today and see what happens.


Cheers,Greg.

[Cuzzo]

How have you fitted this up have you fitted the inlet/outlet the right way? The screw at the top wont do anything its the brass tap/bolt undo and tighten to control bleeding of the air can you not do that is it stuck or something?

wtf..

you open up the top screw for less boost, close the screw for more boost.

[Gttwinturbomk3]

wtf..

you open up the top screw for less boost, close the screw for more boost.

Yeah, its the old dual stage type i forgot about them ones.

[Snyper]

and if you still cant seem to get any adjustment by screwing it all the way in and out, providing you have it set up correctly, you may need to pull one of the hoses off and put a restriction in there so you get even less air going to the wastegate. had alot of trouble setting these kind of valves up in the past.

Brendon