im needing to know also as im doing this soon!
thanks
Hi guys,
I'm wanting to fit a remote oil filter and cooler set up.
I also want to keep all un-necessary crap out of my engine bay.
So can i fit the remote mount directly to the block?
or do i have to use some or all of the factory mounting parts?
ie the alloy block, factory oil cooler?
I'm really after someone who has actually done this and had it work properly. i would like to attatch it straight to the block as my first option, then to the alloy block as second.
Let me know what you know....
Cheers
Stew
Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines. – Enzo Ferrari
im needing to know also as im doing this soon!
thanks
87' z20 Soarer - 1jz Gt35r -
thats the factory oil cooler, just bypass the coolant hose,
no reason why it wont work, just aslong as you can get it to seal.
Hey Blake,
Yeah i get that. But i dont want it there at all if i dont need it if that makes sense.
I know i can fit up the block mount to that - what i want to know is if i can get rid of that, and or the alloy mount as well.
The less in my bay the better....
Cheers
Stew
Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines. – Enzo Ferrari
Stew, ditch the donk and go flintstone styles... Man this car is going to be anal...
I need help wasting time today..! dont want to actualy work while at work
Cheers,
Jase
P.s. i have nothing much useful to say today
ditch it all mate, its just there to angle the filter out of the way of the a/c compresor and make it more/less accesible for the fool that gets to change it.
Firstly...How do you plan to mount the oil filter relocation kit to the block if you remove the alloy section and water->oil cooler?
You have no male thread onto which to screw the oil filter relocation adapter plate...and the male -> male thread that holds the water-oil cooler to the alloy section isn't usable directly off the block at my quick test.
Personally I like the idea of keeping the factory water-oil cooler... for a number of reasons...!
1) The oil will get up to temp quicker as a result of being heated by the water on cold start -> less wear (water gets up to operating temp quicker than oil on cold start...)
2) Once at operating temp the water will help cool the oil (Oil operating temp is higher than water operating temp)
It's win-win for the water-oil cooler as far as I see it
Also I had a quick look at how the JZ water-oil cooler is setup from factory...
It predominately cools the oil after it has been through the filter... this may enable you to setup your oil cooler without a thermostat and rely on the water-oil cooler to bring the oil back up to an OK operating temp if the cooler is too effective...(I'd measure some oil temps to confirm this)
And if your oil cooler isn't the most awesome in the world then the water-oil cooler will still take some temp out of the oil...
To me, I only see benefits to leaving the stock water-oil cooler in place...The only benefits that I can see to removing it is a very small weight saving, and slightly more room (Not that you need it in that area?!)![]()
PS your alternator is in the wrong spot
Cheers
Wilbo
Hey mate,
Thanks for the detailed reply.
Could i just attach it to the block was basically the question i was looking for an answer to - i didnt know if some of the more serious race/dyno motors may have had this set up changed. im sure there is a way - but whether it is worth the hassle.....
The factory oil cooler/warmer will do nothing on my car - as i have no water flow around the back of the block - no heater lines etc. so it wasn't hooked up.
I was planning on running a thermostat. And the car is not daily driven - only done around 2000km in the last 4 years..... hopefully more in the future.... but i always warm it up to running temp first before playing.
As far as weight... anything counts - but its more a case of if i dont need it i dont want it there...
Are you sure the alternator shouldn't be there? looks right to me....
Cheers
Stew
Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines. – Enzo Ferrari
Well if you want to mount it directly to the block you'll need to find a Male -> Male thread adapter or make one
Also might be worth heading to the wreckers and seeing if anything else works directly!... like M series...
i.e. Pic of 7mge (MA70) off Toyodiy...
I know, and you know the alternator isn't on that side from factoryOriginally Posted by Toy77 from build thread
![]()
No fooling you......![]()
Way too much time trolling the forums!!!!!
Thanks for the info - might try and suss that out
cheers
Stew
Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines. – Enzo Ferrari
With the lack of similes from you I wasn't sure if you were taking the piss or notOriginally Posted by Toy77
Meh time to get to the shed for the day I think
Cheers
Wilbo
Well got it sorted today....
Thanks for the 7m suggestion mate. i stole the whole alloy block section off a 7mgte in a mate driveway (he should put his stuff in his shed when he is out playing on his boat!!!)
i couldnt get the threaded section out. but did manage to use the whole set up. required a few mods - welding and re drilling of the oil holes in the big banjo style bolt that holds it on. the 7m bolt is too short.... and the locating hole at the top is furthur out than on the 7m...
But im happy with the end result....
Thanks for those that offered advice...
cheers
Stew
Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines. – Enzo Ferrari
definately looks the goods!
JZA70|R / 12.45 @ 111 mph.
Does it look like the thread out of the 7m would work if you could get it out of the block?
yeah i reckon it would.
Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines. – Enzo Ferrari
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