Different style slave cylinders ?

**CrUZida** · 03-12-2008, 12:58 AM

$250 was just a guess. I have 3 of them at home (used ones), so I haven't chased prices. Ed listed $150 for the price of his. NFI where he got that though. NFI on model number too.

Anyway, update.

Thoughts on design and layout?
Its only 6mm steel, will just be a temp to get the car somewhere for a proper 10mm steel one.
Yes, the sump needs some grinding for the bracket to be flat.
Yes, the rod is bamboo, its just there for a mockup.

**allencr** · 03-12-2008, 07:26 AM

Heat Shield!!!
Adjust the pivot so it starts out less then 90 & goes over 90deg. - for the push-rod to fork angle, but if it's going to greatly offset the fork to release bearing contact, I'd compromise in favor of the bearing.

**CrUZida** · 03-12-2008, 08:40 AM

Heat sheild is a given.

And the clutch isn't installed in that pic, so the fork is currently in the 'release' position.
Once the clutch is installed and the fork is in its 'rest' position, the angle should be just over 90deg.

**rob** · 03-12-2008, 09:59 AM

i know its a poor photoshop but a bush to prevent deflection of the rod might be worth an extra bit of fab time

[IMG]

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**Mos** · 03-12-2008, 10:16 AM

It would be curious to see how much that bracket will flex - it might be negligible, but do you have the option of welding on a rib to make it an L or a T?

I made a heat sheild for mine, then didn't get around to putting it on and the slave seems to be "ok" after 18 months, but only a couple of wakefield days. Are your headers coated?

I had to shave the bleed nipple much to get it not to touch the headers. Unforunately it's not bleedable in situ... Was looking for a slave with different in/out bosses.

Mos.

**CrUZida** · 03-12-2008, 10:25 AM

Rob, I did consider a bush/sleeve for the rod, but this is only a temporary fix because I don't have the tools to make the bracket properly. When it does get made properly it will be redone with 10mm steel instead of 6mm as per those photos. The rod is also 8mm steel and 190mm long, so I'm not sure how much flex there will be.
Welding a rib onto the bracket is definitely something that will be looked into.

Mos, they do make slaves with the bleed nipple on different angles.
The one in that photo is ~45deg to vertical. You can get some where its closer to 70deg to vertical.
I know on my car one of them doesn't fit. (bleed nipple hits extractors).

**Joshstix** · 03-12-2008, 11:19 AM

Originally Posted by CrUZida

The rod is also 8mm steel and 190mm long, so I'm not sure how much flex there will be.

It doesn't really have to be an 8mm rod. It could be a larger diameter pipe threaded for lengths of 8mm roto screw into at each end or even an 8mm rod with ribs welded to it along the length external to the cylinder and fork. Better yet a piece of larger diameter rod milled out into a cross shape then turned down to the correct size on the ends.

**wilbo666** · 03-12-2008, 11:22 AM

What about a 'tag' off the bracket you have there than gets welded onto your bracket under the clutch cyl, and also picks up off that bolt on the sump there....

To give it stiffness in more than one dimension...

Hope you can make u what I mean from that! lol

Cheers
Wilbo

**CrUZida** · 03-12-2008, 11:27 AM

Yep, thats possible Josh/Wilbo, but I'll leave that for the final fabricator to decide.

This is just something to make the car driveable for a short time.

**Mos** · 03-12-2008, 01:49 PM

Originally Posted by CrUZida

Mos, they do make slaves with the bleed nipple on different angles.
The one in that photo is ~45deg to vertical. You can get some where its closer to 70deg to vertical.
I know on my car one of them doesn't fit. (bleed nipple hits extractors).

I need one that's vertical

I think the one I have is close to 90.
Mos.