3TGTE sparkplugs

**Diz44zy** · 31-12-2006, 02:27 PM

Hey,

Just a quick questions. I went and bought some spark plugs for my 3tgte but when i went to change them they looked different to the ones that were in there.

The ones in the engine were NGK-R BPR6EY (also has a 11 mark underneath)
The ones i were sold and told were for the 3tgte are NGK-R BKR6EP (underneath is an 8)

Also wanted to know the sparkplug gap specification for this engine is it .8mm?
the ones in the eng were set at about .9-.95.

Cheers.

**stradlater** · 31-12-2006, 02:34 PM

I've no idea what the difference between the Y and the P is, but a gap of .9 to .95 is about right, particularly if you have an uprated ignition system in some way.

But, a gap of .8 is a pretty typical gap, kinda standard for cars like commo's and the like.

**Diz44zy** · 31-12-2006, 05:19 PM

Alright i solved it. They sold me the wrong spark plugs.

I'd still like to know what the gap specification is though??? anyone?

Cheers,

**TheToyman75** · 01-01-2007, 07:39 PM

Diz,

How much boost are you running ? The spark plug heat range and gap changes to suit different boost levels. If your running a stock 7-8 PSI boost then the 6 heat range will be great and you will probably even get away with the 1.1mm plug gap.

Once you get around say 14 PSI I would go to a BCPR7ES at the 0.8 plug gap due to the higher boost.

**Diz44zy** · 02-01-2007, 06:06 PM

Cheers mate. i'm just running stock boost with the gap set to 0.95 although looking to modify it a bit and running more boost. However gf insists on saving money for a deposit on a house.

You guys on this forum really know your stuff!!!

**lilcrash** · 18-07-2007, 05:36 AM

i always though the stock setup for plugs was , brp6ey with a 1.1gap or what ever. i always buy bpr6ey-11 as they are pregapped. alas that is probably my problem

**ben5072** · 01-12-2008, 09:36 PM

Allright peoples I need some closure on 3T-GTE plugs!
I was under the impression that runnning the genuine W20EXR-U11 Denso jobbies was the best way to go. I just put a set in with out of the box gaping set at .95.

Some people say run .8 gap some say .95! What should I do?

I have a fairly standard engine running 10psi, front mount, bov and thats about it.

I was running Bosch WR8DC plugs with .63 gap compliments of my friendly mechanic! TWAT.

The other option i'v heard is NGKBP8ES plugs also set at .8, this is also an option.

Any input is greatly appreciated!

Although this is not going to solve my problems as I recon my O2 sensor is shagged or something, cos i'v just suddenly fouled 2 sets of plugs instantaneously. Geeesh!!!!!! Any ideas?

Cheers all you 3T-GTE owners out there
Ben

**TheToyman75** · 01-12-2008, 09:48 PM

Ben,

Plug gaps and heat range vary a lot depending on the amount of boost you run and the ignition system you have.

If your 3T-GTE is only running 10PSI then the stock plugs from Toyota will be perfect. If you rather the NGK brand then you want a BPR6ES and the stock gap should be fun. No less than 0.8 or more than 1.0

**allencr** · 02-12-2008, 02:44 AM

Originally Posted by Diz44zy

1 they looked different to the ones that were in there.

2 The ones in the engine were NGK-R BPR6EY (also has a 11 mark underneath)
The ones i were sold and told were for the 3tgte are NGK-R BKR6EP (underneath is an 8)

3 Also wanted to know the spark-plug gap specification for this engine is it .8mm?
the ones in the eng were set at about .9-.95.

The best plugs to buy, is knowingwhat to look for & looking at the current/old plugs
http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Sp...s_catalog.html
and thinking about their properties(design & material, there is no [I]copper[/] spark-plug despite the advertising), how it's been driven , their age, petrol/gas & octane, future use/conditions and' What's the compression? & valve lash', is probably not the sparkplug recommended by the net.
1. Color? Ground electrode size shape or number of? The length of the center electrode nose's porcelain insulator? A screw on connecter for the wire? What difference?
2. Most likely the P means platinum. The 11 & 8 suffix may be the factory set gap, but there is no reason to trust it's accuracy and the gap should always be set.
3. The .9-.95 doesn't really mean anything if the previous setting and the amount of wear /erosion isn't known, but most modern systems are great at anything from .5 to 1.5. Test it by opening the gap up until the performance is affected. This test may find weakness's in the wires & cap & coil/s!!!!!!!!