Driving a Commodore cruise control from a Toyota A340 VSS?

[CrUZida]

Oh, and are the commodore actuators electronic or vacuum operated? Might affect how it works on a diesel ? Will it have the power to open a diesel throttle (I don't know how heavy your pedal is)

Also the genuine Toyota ones will have control over the lockup torque convertor, and so are able to limit coasting speed downhill. I'm not sure if aftermarket stuff does this.

[Gus333]

My understanding (hope this is right) is that the actuator is incorporated in the "module" on the left-hand side of that diagram. That's one of the reasons I like this design, one less box to wire in.

[Gus333]

Ah, torque converter. I hadn't thought of that. AFAIK, the aftermarket ones don't do that either.

I guess there would be a chance of getting torque converter control if I fitted a module from Soarer TT or another A340-equipped car, just more complex.

[thechuckster]

to work out what kind of signal comes from the gearbox sensor - count the wires.

A VR sensor will have 2 wires and may have a shield that is earthed at one end only.

A Hall effect device will usually have 3 wires with one of the 12V powered.

Given Toyota's preference for VR sensors, I'd guess that the gearbox speed sensor is a VR unit.

[madmont]

GUS333 how did you go with the Commodore cruise control?

[GtiRboy]

In reply to one of the first replies above. I would leave the brake switches in parellel, or the cruise control stop will only work if you open both switches at the same time. Whereas in series you only need to open either switch and it will cut the cruise control.

Cheers

[CrUZida]

In reply to one of the first replies above. I would leave the brake switches in parellel, or the cruise control stop will only work if you open both switches at the same time. Whereas in series you only need to open either switch and it will cut the cruise control.

That all depends on what type of signal it is.

If its connected is healthy, and thus disconnected to disable, then it needs to be series.
If its disconnected is healthy, and thus connected to disable, then it needs to be parallel

[Gus333]

Unfortunately, work life interfered a bit after I posted this and I'm overseas until April.

I have the cruise control unit sitting in the shed at home but I still haven't sourced a wiring loom for it.

I also read a bunch of horror stories about malfunctioning cruise controls so I'm thinking I might buy an aftermarket unit instead of bodging around, just this one time. Especially cos they're a lot cheaper over here (US.)

[airfireman1]

I have a brand new wiring loom from a vy commo if you want one . It was left over from a kit and the loom was not required as the car had the factory loom already fitted.
Just pm me for a cheap price plus postage if you are interested
cheers dave

[GtiRboy]

That all depends on what type of signal it is.

If its connected is healthy, and thus disconnected to disable, then it needs to be series.
If its disconnected is healthy, and thus connected to disable, then it needs to be parallel

ahhk, i understand now. I don't know much about car electronics yet lol

[wagonist]

In reply to one of the first replies above. I would leave the brake switches in parellel, or the cruise control stop will only work if you open both switches at the same time. Whereas in series you only need to open either switch and it will cut the cruise control.

Cheers

hmmm, lots of misinformation & non-lateral thinking out there.

You're thinking of the cruise switch on the brake pedal like the normal switch for the lights.
ie normally open.
ie the switch makes contact when you close it by pushing the brake pedal which then provides power to the brake lights.

Every factory cruise system I've seen has normally closed switches for the cruise.
ie there is power flowing through the circuit until you push the switch & then the circuit is broken, which cancels the cruise control.
Therefore, you have them in series, and any switch is pressed cancels the cruise.
Much simpler to wire up, & if there's a fault where you break a wire, the cruise won't activate, which is much safer.

That way, you can have multiple switches: brake, clutch, handbrake, neutral.

[GtiRboy]

arrrrgh...lol i just re-read what i wrote at the top.. I meant to have it the other way around.. I was reading your quote above and i was like wtf i didn't write that.

I meant to say leave it in series, not parellel lol..

Thanks for the correction wagonist

[wagonist]

It was also mentioned earlier in the thread. Yours was the easiest to quote from

I may look into the commodore system myself. After having an aftermarket (US built) cruise on the last car, I don't want aftermarket again.

• Soft touch buttons that you were never sure you'd pressed,
• you had to let go of the throttle (a lot) after you'd set it so it would take over (as opposed to most factory systems which seem to pull the cable in until the slack is taken up which means there's little speed loss when it first starts,
• wouldn't "resume" back to the same speed
• developed a problem of not picking the throttle back up after full release whilst going downhill (big issue on a diesel as mostly the compression had claused it to slow too much while you were still going down the hill)
• not quick enough to react to a speed change