2TG/2TC blocks. How to differentiate which is which?

[Gabe]

I need to know an easy way of telling these blocks apart.
In short, we have just rebuilt a 2TG. We do not know the history on it, and there is a lack of oil pressure.
New filter and bypass valve is working. The engine has no leaks what so ever. Only other real reason I can see is either the oil pump or we have the wrong block.

Just need to know what block we have, and how to fix the low pressure issue.

Cheers

[71TA22]

If its a 2TG block the engine number should be something like:

2T-8******

If its a 2TC it will have an engine number that does not start with the 8 after the 2T-.

Could be a 2T block without the bearings turned to block off the oil supply galleries where the 2T camshaft usually lies. In a 2TG there is just a short dummy shaft to run the oil pump/distributor.

[jeffro ra28]

The 2tg blocks have hollow tubes punched through the oil galleries that supply the cam bearings on a 2tc to still allow oil flow in these galleries.

[Gabe]

Ok well according to the info above, it's a 2TG block and as it turns out, had a faulty oil pressure switch.
I stuck an oil pressure gauge on it and at idle there is around 60psi oil pressure.

Is this about right?

It stays rock solid no matter what engine RPM is.

My only concern now is there is a slight rattle coming from the timing chain area when I pulse the throttle.

Is it possible the chain is too tight? It's definetly not too loose I know that....

Cheers

[Gabe]

Anyone?
How do you tell if the tension on the chain is right? Can the chain be over tensioned? What happens if you run the engine when it's over tensioned?
We are using a new tensioner from swmotorsport.com and installed it as per the instructions.

Any help is appreciated cheers

[w810sc]

If it stays at 60 in all rpm you have a problem. Oil is not getting to certain places of the motor. Take the cam cover off and check if oil is getting to the head. Look down where the timing chain is and make sure the sprockets are secured with a bolt. If the idle/dummy cam is not centralised in its housing it will block the the only oil gallery to the head.

60psi when cold is what mine runs, then as it warms up it goes downs to some where around 20psi.

If you over tighten the chain dampener you risk stretching you timing chain that will lead to your cam timing being out.
To correctly tighten you dampener:
- turn crank shaft until piston 4 is at TDC on compression stroke
- use a screw driver to push in the plunger so that it take up the slack
- tighten the big end nut up so that it is right up against the plunger then turn it back a turn to give the plunger 0.5mm to 1mm of clearance.
- secure the big end nut with the locking nut.

good luck and hope this helps you sort out your problems.