Can't confirm either way - i'm not the one who looks after the car!
were they physically warped (ie checked the runout with dial gauge?) or just uneven transfer of resin from pad to disc?
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
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Can't confirm either way - i'm not the one who looks after the car!
If there's one thing I know, it's never to mess with mother nature, mother in-laws and mother freaking Ukrainians
I'm of the opinion that slotted rotors probably make stuff all difference on a daily runabout, but like Nark said, for $30 why the hell not?
It should be noted that the car in question was ostensibly bought as a tow car, which obviously puts significant extra stress on the braking system. Don't be a cheapskate, buy the slotted rotors!
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
I think you will find that brakes very rarely warp but rather give a warped feel from improper braking in procedures. As oldcorrollas said the resin left from new pads.
The article I have linked below gives an outline of the reasons I have stated and how to avoid the warped feel.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Cheers,
Hope it helps someone.
What kind of pads would you recommend for use with slotted rotors? Are there pads designed specifically for them or will standard ones suffice?
I always follow a very strict bedding in procedure for new brake pads ... i didn't install the one on the p.o.s. falcon though![]()
If there's one thing I know, it's never to mess with mother nature, mother in-laws and mother freaking Ukrainians
Any pads will do the job, but of you want the thing to stop, get some EBC blackstuff pads. They're an OEM replacement, don't need heat to work well, and by all accounts work a lot better than the stock pads for most cars. Depends what you want to do with it again...if it is a street car, stick with the Bendix Ultimates or the EBC blackstuffs.
RM.
I went with slotted since it'll see the track, however it doesnt' cost so much more.
Gonna start off with Lucas Pads and see how they go, they were cheaper than EBC blackstuff by $10. Change them when they were out and play with various combinations till you find a good combo you like.
JDM T283 diff sandblasted, repainted. Calipers overhauled with OEM caliper kit/repainted, Techno Pro Spirit Rotors and Goodridge Braided brake lines![]()
I'VE fitted DBA slotted rotors and Bendix Ultimates to the front of my POS and found a marked improvement in the braking ability of said POS.
I do tow with it and the extra braking is always handy. i have no complaints
ps my pad wear has not increased that much that it is any concern
cheers
ON HOLD Current Project 1UZ-FE Powered Buggy
Last Project 18R-GEU time to tinker
EDITED ITS ALL VERY LAMO
Meh, if you want to stop, get EBC greens. Those pads are the shit!![]()
SHE LIVES!
1984 MA61, 1998 Honda Hornet CB600F
Very mixed responses! I'm not interested in being a cheapskate, but I'm just not interested in spending money on something I'll get no benefit from! I'm actually doing the suspension and brakes on the car when I can probably get by without it, just decided to do everything straight up and get the benefit from it, rather than do it in 1½ years and then sell the car 6 months later.
One thing I'll mention is that a lot of people have poorly maintained braking systems, not bled regularly/properly and fitted with cheap pads/lines. Obviously when slotted rotors are fitted most people reco their calipers, fit good quality pads, bleed the brakes and replace the lines if they're in poor condition. I wonder how much of the braking benefit is really from the slotted rotors?
I've only had one price on the discs but it seemed fairly reasonable... about $97 DBA standard or $127 DBA slotted (approx prices). In the interests of not being called a cheapskate I'll get the slotted discs but I don't believe there'll be a noticeable difference due to the slotting.
so you dont think the quicker grab on the rotor because the gasses caused from the pads is disipated quicker from between the pads and rotor because of the slots in the rotor (fair enough, maybe not much heat might be generated driving 40kp/h to the local deli and back) over a standard rotor that will have a small cushion of gas between the pad and rotor (slowing the 'grab' on the rotor) a benifit?Originally Posted by Shifty
Those prices you quoted above are very similar to what I paid for my dba slotted jobs when I did the 300zx caliper upgrade. I was of the same mind as you, do I need them or not I thought.
At the end of the day though, it was only $30 difference and I figure that even if there's a marginal improvement over non-slotted it's worth it for that little outlay of funds
Plus I like drag racing and slowing down from 180 before the kitty litter at the end appeals![]()
Project megap00 - Gave up and sold up. Money tree died
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