2JZGTE + Microtech + Stock turbos

[PlacentaJuan]

no the wastegate on the no1 turbro, bro.

ill come over on saturday and show u how to do it

[MR 1JZ]

sweet es brew

ill be kickin around friday night if you wanna come then instead

[BigWorm]

WTF?!? Wastegzate permanantly open?? Why?
You're a retard, and so are you Matt, hook up the w'gate as usual, wire open the 2nd turbo exhaust control valve & run a dump off the standard y pipe. Then remove and blank any actuators, valves, vac ports etc.

Wastegate always open will make the WTEs (worst turbos evah!) even laggier.

[PlacentaJuan]

SHUT UP DICKHEAD YOU HAVE UNDER 5000 REP POINTS AND A 1JZ SO WHAT WOULD YOU KNOW

[MR 1JZ]

lol

im actually laughing

[wilbo666]

WTF?!?

Wire open the 2nd turbo exhaust control valve

Wastegate always open will make the WTEs (worst turbos evah!) even laggier.

No need to wire the rear turbo prespool valve open... Just remove the ceramic flap bit

He's right about the wastegate tho

Cheers
Wilbo

[BigWorm]

No need to wire the rear turbo prespool valve open... Just remove the ceramic flap bit
Cheers
Wilbo

Yeah but that would take 20 mins rather than 5, plus it will help restrict up the zorst.

Shit matt, I thought you would have learnt by now. Although I guess you didn't figure it out after the first ECU....

[Turbomini]

just make a new dump with no waste gates in it... the connect a pop off valve to your exhaust.. its simular to a blow off valve but its for your exhaust system.. they are commonly used on turbo cars from the 1920's.

do you guys know anything about remapping the standard computer on my 1jz or my 2jz i herd some guy from here was getting involved with this and buying up all the ecus to do some testing ?

[wilbo666]

Yeah but that would take 20 mins rather than 5, plus it will help restrict up the zorst.

Shit matt, I thought you would have learnt by now. Although I guess you didn't figure it out after the first ECU....

We must have communication issues

Big Ceramic Flap = EGBV (Exhuast Gas Bypass Valve) --> Remove, it comes off easy and just make dumps to go from there
Actuator on rear turbo turbine = Pre spool --> Don't have to do anything, it won't do shite once we remove EGBV
Actuator on rear turbo compressor outlet --> Take off alloy pipe and remove reed valve and butterfly inside alloy pipe, can then remove actuator and plug lines

That will put it in parallel turbo mode

Cheers
Wilbo

[BigWorm]

Ah yep, I was only refering to the EGBV.
I agree with you on that being the best method, I'm just thinking in this situation leave the EGBV where it is (and it won't need wiring open as it's sprung open isn't it?) for ease, minimum cost of dump & to help restrict it a bit.
No point putting on twin dumps & big zorst then having to fit a restrictor & pulling it all off for the sanest option of single turbo.

+1 for removing the compressor valve, and pre-spool won't matter.

[wilbo666]

Yeah we all know the best method here it to remove the silly twins and go single... and I'm sure he will wise up to that

Nah EGBV is closed by default, so would have to remove actuator and wire open... less effort than just removing! (It's in it own section that is like 2" thick so just drops off )

I think his idea is to run heaps of boost on the stock turbos (No restriction, no second wastegate)) --> blow them --> causing the engine to ingest a comp wheel --> leading to forged internal build --

I await the carnage

Cheers
Wilbo

[The Real Roadrunner]

I think his idea is to run heaps of boost on the stock turbos (No restriction, no second wastegate)) --> blow them --> causing the engine to ingest a comp wheel --> leading to forged internal build --

I await the carnage

Cheers
Wilbo

provided Captain Tightarse actually runs an intercooler then it should act as a secondary air filter for heavy particles, so not much chance of doing damage.

but then again it probly wont be running for another 2 years so atleast he would have time to save for said forged internals if the worst did happen

[Mos]

no doubt...but not having any kind of boost control would just be flat out reckless

Letting you drive anything would just be flat out reckless but that's beyond the scope of this thread.
You can still control boost with your right foot by not letting the boost gauge go above x-psi (by reducing load and keeping rpms in check).

[Officer Doofy]

this thread delivers

hurry up with the skidz you soft c*nt!

[Draven]

provided Captain Tightarse actually runs an intercooler then it should act as a secondary air filter for heavy particles, so not much chance of doing damage.

Didn't stop my 2j from ingesting bits of an exhaust wheel when #2 turbo went bang

Edit: Actually, rather than "ingest", suppository is probably a more accurate term for how they got in