Gizzmo IBC - help me get it working!

[YLD-16L]

Hhmmm.

So line length is fine.

I assume it's plumbed direct to the manifold with no restrictor or the like?

Strange too that the gain has no noticeable effect. If I run more than 20% gain on the peak boost levels I get spiking so I usually just set it to 0%. On sub 12psi levels though I set the gain quite high and get a noticeable improvement in boost response but without spiking.

[CrUZida]

I don't think its direct to manifold, at the moment its tee'd off from the MAP sensor line.
Previously it was tee'd off from the brake booster line (which from the factory tee's off to the cruise control actuator, it was the closest place to use) - My boost gauge is still tee'd off from here.
I don't have any spare vacuum points on the plenum to get a dedicated line.

I'll have to check the gain next time I drive it (off the road atm), but I know the gain was originally set to 0, and I was having the problem because the first thing I was told to try was to set the gain more agressive.

If I use 80% throttle to bring it up to full boost, then she doesn't spike, but if I just floor it - bam, boost cut.

[Hydra]

Yup I'm using the right buttons to change duty/gain.

I'll double-check the ports tonight but I am 90% sure I have them the correct way around. I take it the gain setting would be the thing to look at if you're getting unstable boost... but then I wonder if putting a restrictor on the 3rd unused port would help stabilise it?

[YLD-16L]

Yup I'm using the right buttons to change duty/gain.

I'll double-check the ports tonight but I am 90% sure I have them the correct way around. I take it the gain setting would be the thing to look at if you're getting unstable boost... but then I wonder if putting a restrictor on the 3rd unused port would help stabilise it?

Gain is not there to help unstable boost, if you have unstable boost then you need to diagnose the cause.

Gain allows you to control when the solenoid begins to open and control boost, it does nothing more than enable you to bring on boost faster by blocking the line to the wastegate until the preset gain level is reached i.e. if your target psi is 10psi and you set the gain to 80% then it won't allow any pressure to the wastegate actuator until it sees 8psi.

Hence on a big boost setup with a responsive turbo if you set the gain too high there is a likelihood you will overshoot the target peak pressure.


The restrictor idea is the worst idea ever, especially considering you haven't even got it working yet.


Edit: It might be worthwhile drawing the plumbing in a diagram too, just use paint or something to show how you've got all your vac lines running to the solenoid, actuators, processor etc.

[Hydra]

Sorry, my mistake. I should have said setting the gain too high could cause it to fluctuate while the IBC struggles to work out whats going on.

The restrictor wasn't for me at all.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Gain is not there to help unstable boost, if you have unstable boost then you need to diagnose the cause.

Gain allows you to control when the solenoid begins to open and control boost, it does nothing more than enable you to bring on boost faster by blocking the line to the wastegate until the preset gain level is reached

Actually, just to play devils advocate. While that is true, apparently (according to the Gizzmo guys) it's also a feed into the boost control algorithm which makes it more aggressive.

[Pube]

Best advice is to piss the gizzmo EBC off altogeather. Myne spiked all the time and NEVER held the boost I wanted to the set duty cycle. Total POS, buy an older Blitz unit, heaps better as it held the exact boost every time.

[YLD-16L]

Interesting how peoples results vary so much.

I have one and know a couple of people with them and they work just as they are meant to.


Seems like every boost controller I looked into though, you'd read good and bad on all of them. The only one that seemed to come up with almost entirely positive comments was the e-boost 2. Costs a bit more than most others though is the only drawback.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

I ended up taking the same approach as Pube. I couldn't get a satisfactory result with my Gizzmo, with the gain too high it'd spike and with the gain too low it wasn't aggressive in its control and would oscillate around the set point. I cracked the shits, bought an eBoost2 and never gave it a second thought. Once I sold the Gizzmo and my boost gauge it didn't cost me much to swap over and it meant one less thing in my dash.

That said, I sold the Gizzmo to someone with a 1JZGTE and it worked perfectly for him, so NFI

[Hydra]

Hey guys,

Wow this thread exploded a bit hey

I got it working, I went through and re-did everything. I reckon (didn't take much notice) that it would have been the hoses connected the wrong way around on the solenoid (eg swapped 2 for 3 and 3 for 2).

Works well now! Holds boost at a steady 9psi or so with none of the crazy fluctuations that people are talking about. But now I have clutch slip, dammit! I kinda expected this to happen.

Thanks to all for the help!

[YLD-16L]

If anyone experiences an oscillating peak boost and can't get it to a steady state then try adding a small inline fuel filter into the line from the manifold to the EBC head unit to dampen the reading.

This can hep in some cases.

[Hydra]

It really depends on the reason it's oscillating too - but the theory of putting it on the manifold->EBC is certainly sound. Don't the 20v boys do that if they're getting a bad reading from the map sensor?

Then again, I wouldn't expect it to be such an issue on a turbo engine since it has a nice big plenum. Perhaps too much pressure is being vented from the solenoid->wastegate line, which causes the pressure to drop off, and then the EBC decides to compensate for it, making it spike again and so on.

[YLD-16L]

A lot of 4 cylinder single throttle, standard manifold engines create pulsing significant enough to cause issues with ECUs and electronic boost controllers. Turbo 4A's are a prime example.

Perhaps too much pressure is being vented from the solenoid->wastegate line, which causes the pressure to drop off, and then the EBC decides to compensate for it, making it spike again and so on.

In that case the lines to the solenoid and/or the EBC unit would be too long if that is happening as the unit is just chasing its tail.

[Pube]

Maybe the Gizzmo EBC just doesnt like 1G's...It use to make me crack the shits when it always saved the highest boost reached for that set duty cycle, so when it always spiked 1-3 psi it saved that value. Gay! Glad it worked for you though

[YLD-16L]

One thing I dislike about the Gizzmo is the fact the unit reads to two decimal places when displaying psi, highly unecessary and because the second decimal place is always so busy it's useless anyway. One decimal place and reading to the nearest 0.2 or 0.5 would be much neater.

Ideally to me it'd much simpler to set target psi and let the unit adapt the duty cycle to achieve it rather than set the duty cycle and have the unit learn the corresponding boost. But these things are relatively cheap so I guess you don't get all the bells and whistles.