Engine conversion into Ra23

[bigmat]

if done right an sr20 conversion with all the little changes to get to 200kw will be atleast 10to 12k with no change.
this would give you tunnel work
gt28bb turbs
intank fuel system
plumbing and cooling
standard computer re-mapped
and maybe ke70 rack conversion

but then add another 10 to 12k for suspension and the other fruit to keep it from smaicking into a tree

cheers mat

[Blue23]

as it sounds like a good idea going to the SR20 im still not 100% on it, i like them alot, got plenty of mates who have pulsars that hammer, but honestl cannot really see one in the celica, after going from the 18RG with twin webbers to the SR20 i cant picture it. but the suggestion is there.

with the 18RG's you can put an EFI system on them without a turbo, which makes them Fuel Injected right?

Also Does anyone have or no of anyone selling a pair of RA23 bonnet hinges, the ones i bought a while ago are actually the wrong set of hinges

[o_man_ra23]

EFI stands for Electronic Fuel Injection.

You will still need the majority of the bits I mentioned, but you won't need extensive pipework, or exhaust bits. The standard 18R-GUE ECU is crap, so I would get an aftermarket of sorts that is capable of handling forced induction anyway (again Megasquirt is great value for money).

[bigmat]

here goes. i have had 18rg with webbers fully rebuilt and there slow compaired to a standard sr20 and the old 18rg on webbers would suck more juice. 18rg turbo will never get past emissons on an aftermarket computer unless you have shit loads of money to get it properly tested. sorry im not a puriest anymore. sr20t rear wheel drive turbs straight out of the box.

gluck mat

[Smokey228]

Im with matt on this one, obviously! Not like in a relationship, but like agree about the sr20... Well, if yours interested... Wait, sorry off topic!

Well.. This thread has certainly hit its quota of weirdness, first 18rg turbos, and now man dates! WTF?

Cheers,
Jase

[o_man_ra23]

Aaaahhhh... what you don't realise is that an 18R-G turbo doesn't have to comply to the same emmissions requirements as an SR20DET!! You need to start reading some of the kit car magazines. So long as it can be satisfied that the intent of the regulations has been adhered to, then you can get an 18R-GTE emmissions passed. The easiest way to do this is have an ECU with closed loop feedback when cruising set at a reasonable AFR target. This will far surpass the emmissions requirements of a mid 1970's engine/car.

Plus you don't need a cat converter.

But yeah, for ease of install, SR20. For DIY fun, 18R-GTE can be done for only a few grand.

[Blue23]

ok

well away from the 4cylinders, whats the difference between the 1jz and the 1ggte? much difference there power out puts, single/twin turbo. easily converted to single turbo.

also whats the best way to go in diffs. i no a bloke who can do a hilux LSD for $2k, anything cheaper but just as strong, and also the best break upgrade that you can go. my uncle told me about Hopper Stopper set ups worth buying for $1200?

and also my radiator is cracked so i need to replace that, ive had an aditave added to it which will keep it going for a little while, but i was thinking about going Cast alloy, was talking to a bloke at Summernats who business is around making them, all he asks is for the dimensions of the whole it needs to fit and he'll make it for $700, for the long run would this be my best option to go to, thinkin if i get it dont now i wont need to do it later?

[o_man_ra23]

1JZ is bigger and heavier, but far stronger and with better aftermarket support and extra capacity.

Brakes - there are MANY options. A seemingly good and inexpensive is the VL Turbo setup - 290mm disks with hubs (get them undrilled, and take them to a machine shop and get them drilled to whatever stud pattern you want), then get a set of callipers you like and make a bracket to mount them (RX7 Series 5 or 6 is popular and good). Rear you can't go past a set of MA70 disks on a Hilux diff for ease of install.

Cast alloy?? I don't think I have ever heard of a cast alloy radiator. They get the cores made by a manufacturing plant, cut them to the size you need, and then weld on end tanks. Check out www.alloyradiators.com.au I paid $500 for mine and it has MASSIVE cooling capability. Many others on here have them too, the bloke on here who is the proprieter of Just Alloy Radiators (forum sponsor) is a TA22 nut by the handle of RiceburnaGTV.

Both the 1JZ and 1G come as twin turbo. Unless you are after a drag racer or dyno queen, I can't see a real need to move away from the twins, with the exception of a catastrophic turbo failure and the single setup being cheaper than replacement twins.

[bigmat]

im with you jase. i just want a happy date

mat

[Smokey228]

ok

well away from the 4cylinders, whats the difference between the 1jz and the 1ggte? much difference there power out puts, single/twin turbo. easily converted to single turbo.

also whats the best way to go in diffs. i no a bloke who can do a hilux LSD for $2k, anything cheaper but just as strong, and also the best break upgrade that you can go. my uncle told me about Hopper Stopper set ups worth buying for $1200?

and also my radiator is cracked so i need to replace that, ive had an aditave added to it which will keep it going for a little while, but i was thinking about going Cast alloy, was talking to a bloke at Summernats who business is around making them, all he asks is for the dimensions of the whole it needs to fit and he'll make it for $700, for the long run would this be my best option to go to, thinkin if i get it dont now i wont need to do it later?

Its easy, the 1JZGTE is probably the best engine choice in my books, shite loads of torque, plenty of power from stock, and an alround awesome daily! But, dont get me wrong, the 1GGTE is also a good package and for the price and easy of install, they are great bang for buck! As an example, a stock 1G will let you see 13 second passes from stock with good driving. A stock 1J will get you to a 12 with pretty average driving in my books

For ease and cost, hilux pug rona upgrade is plenty documented, and pulls up really well... The r33 is the next step, similar in size, but alloy thus less heat soak...
Rear is the ma70 setup if you go the hilux diff...
But for a cheaper diff option, which comes LSD with disk brakes and plenty strong for 200rwkw in a celica would be the Volvo diff.. BUy, cut down, weld mounts, profit! Very cheap to get and also alot of info around for them!

And for a radiator, dont go past RiceburnaGTV's, They are cheap, and well made. I havent heard of anyone having problems, and he's got them to suit both an RA23 with the 1GGTE or the RA23 with a 1JZGTE... So no headaches in getting positions changed or clearance issues!

Cheres,
Jase

[SillyCarS]

seriously though, now that i can look at in in hindsight. i would go a 3vz

yeah!

[Blue23]

with these aloyradiators, would it be worth gettin even when im only running the 18RG? as mine is cracked so i do need to replace it, and thought that i may as well go for the top end range now.

[o_man_ra23]

Its easy, the 1JZGTE is probably the best engine choice in my books, shite loads of torque, plenty of power from stock, and an alround awesome daily!

Your not biased are you What's the weight difference between the 1J and the 1G??

But for a cheaper diff option, which comes LSD with disk brakes and plenty strong for 200rwkw in a celica would be the Volvo diff.. BUy, cut down, weld mounts, profit! Very cheap to get and also alot of info around for them!

If your going to the trouble of cutting a diff down, just get an F series, just as light as the Volvo, good for 400rwkw (ask Norbie), and you don't need to re-drill the studs. Also the ST141/RT142 Avante Corona rear disks fit them when you get 4 stud (or buy the disks blank and drill to suit 5 stud if you want to go that way)

JAR radiators also come in 18R-G pattern. If you need to re-core, and are intending a powerplant upgrade, it is worth getting the alloy radiator now, and not worrying about it later. Make sure you flush your cooling system thoroughly first, and when you re-fill, always use Toyota Red coolant (will take a while to do the changeover first, but it's the best coolant for alloy heads and radiators)

[Blue23]

kool

think i might start saving some pennies then and get it sooner rather than later, is it the same price for the 18Rg do you no, do have to specificly order it?

[Smokey228]

O_Man, lol I am biased no doubt! But ive only been in a stock 1GGTE and it wasnt overly inspiring! SPose reason i like the 1J so much, is it took as long and cost as much as it cost me to do the 1G Should have done the smart thing with the 1G, sold it and got a 1J, or skipped it and gone straight for the 1J

I havent done any corner weights, But from others experience should be around a 60/40 distribution. Which isnt terrible!?

But having said all of this, i would love to drive around in a 1U celica, and a 3S would be fun, but my next build will either be a burnout one with a commo 6 banger. Or a klugger motor? 3rz? Dunno, but its a sweet motor

Cheers,
Jase

EDIT: Swing over the the clasifieds section, go to forum sponsors, and find JAR thread