I'm with Elmo's suggestion. While there is probably oil etc. missing, some of your symptoms could sound like an air leak. Given how much it probably got chucked around, and how many hoses and joins there it wouldn't surprise me.
dude, penrite HPR 15 is the go. its like 30 bucks and my 7M and 1J both drank it and ran fine (well the 7M did while also getting raped by limiter, and the 1J took 25+PSI on standard turbs, but thats another story)
I'm with Elmo's suggestion. While there is probably oil etc. missing, some of your symptoms could sound like an air leak. Given how much it probably got chucked around, and how many hoses and joins there it wouldn't surprise me.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
I guess I'm just wishing there isn't one and life would just be simpler but that's rarely the case
I also went into repco today and was quoted a minimum of $14 per spark plug! For diagnosing and problem solving $84 just seemed like a little too much at the moment so I'm gonna do my best to take out and inspect the current plugs and clean them up as best I can if possible and then run it. If they look fooked I'll spend the money but I just don't want to drop cash in it if it's not gonna help![]()
Last edited by RObErT_RaTh; 08-10-2008 at 08:15 PM.
Dude, a set of NGK's will cost about $3 each. No, they're not platinum or iridium so they wont last as long, but they're cheap and work.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
Yeah I'll just have to find someone else local in my lunch break that can do them for me or try a couple places on the weekend. Dunno why but repco told me $14 was the cheapest ones they could do for me (platinum or iridium or whatever) even when I asked for standard onesOriginally Posted by JustCallMeOrlando
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ask for ngk and punch anyone that wants more than $4 each.
"NGK standard plugs for a 7MGTE thanks"Originally Posted by andrew_mx83
"That'll be $4.50 each mate" *PUNCH*
is it just me, or do places like supercrap generally ream you for spark plugs more than most other items?
I had 6 regular plugs on top of a large order, wasn't till I got home that I realised I'd been hit nearly $5 for them (or $6, can't remember)
That's why I only go to supercheap to buy something on special or not that important ie random mechanic gloves and misc stuff.
I know you are checking plugs etc but have you checked oil hasn't made it's way to the air filter and soaked it?
Current car: AE82 4AGZE track fighter 120fwkw- SOLD - replaced by clubman kart.Fun- but you cant run it in the winton 6HR
AE82-http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=37680
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=GPSrfBT7ArM - winton flybys
Negative, if it has I'd be pretty farkn worried but I can easy check that as well, cheersOriginally Posted by mad1600
PUNCH slash KICK!!Originally Posted by RObErT_RaTh
$4.50 is bullshit
plugs should be $2 each![]()
To be honest I'd be fine with paying $5 each, in the scheme of things $30 for the set isn't that much but $80+ is just out of the question
Well yesterday I pulled out the old spark plugs and the whole set was carbon fouled which was probably to be expected. The plugs I pulled out were an NGK BCPR6E. I called a couple places and they didn't have them in stock and they were all listing platinums for 7MGTE's according their catalogues. I ended up getting some BCPR6ES11's which are basically the same but gapped at 1.1mm for the 7MGE instead of 0.8mm for the 7MGTE. I just re-gapped all the plugs and put them in and the car runs but it looks like it's burning lots of oil. I haven't ripped apart all the intake piping yet so I'm thinking I'll do that next because I just ran out of time this weekend
I didn't notice any more smoke coming from the actual engine bay this time so maybe that was just crap on top of parts that was burning off last time and not an exhaust leak like possibly predicted.
I'm hoping there's just some oil built up in the intake pipes and I can just take it all apart and clean it all out. Once I've done that I'll let it run for awhile and see if it burns off the remainder of it but if it still keeps burning oil solidly I've got bigger problems don't I?
Today I've been out ripping off all the intercooler piping and I did find some oil had pooled in the bottom of the pipes so I've drained that and now I'm about to thoroughly clean all the insides of the pipes and put it all back together to see if it's fixed the majority of the problem or not. A small amount of oil had made its way to the air filter so I'm cleaning the AFM and AFM -> piping as well. Fingers crossed!
When starting the car after I've put it all back together should I let it idle for ages to clean it out or give it some revs after it has warmed up? What would people suggest? Cheers
PS, I also took off the oil fill cap and had a sniff and it smells quite strongly of fuelAlso pulled out the dipstick and same thing, anyone got any ideas??
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