Short Stroke Struts?! Im beached As?!

[Smokey228]

I figured that there wouldnt be much distortion using a spacer above the insert as the base would be taking constant weight, and above that would just be taking the rebound..?

Regardless of how i space the tube, the springs will not be captive. So with the insert at its lowest reach, the spring is still going to be free. I wonder if its cause i have lowered the car too much, or if i have the wrong inserts?

I cant shorten the tube, as i cant cut or weld... Plus i dont want to spend to long without a car

And i will probably use washers at the base now, as i got the shits trying several other approaches last night... But to ensure things dont go smoothly and i get away with an easy task, the locking bolt thingy, well either the one they sent me, which fits the strut perfect has the wrong thread, or the one i have wth the correct thread, doesnt fit the top of the insert properly... So i can either have a well secured insert that will rattle like a mofo... Or i can have a cross threaded tube...? Will probably be in the WPMO thread soon

I need to get wet asap!

Cheers,
Jase

[sillycar chick]

Jase dunno how helpful these would be for you:

http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=110

I was going to look into these for when I build the coilovers for the 28 (future) track car. It doesnt specify what length they are though and I dont know what gland nut thread the AE86 has compared to the strut tubes you're using, but they machine them up themselves so maybe you could even get a thread to suit your tube?

[twentyEight]

Regardless of how i space the tube, the springs will not be captive. So with the insert at its lowest reach, the spring is still going to be free. I wonder if its cause i have lowered the car too much, or if i have the wrong inserts?

Why not run Tender Springs? (ie. The second light spring used to keep the main spring captive)

[Smokey228]

Yeh, i was thinking about running something like that, but dont know where one could get something like that..?

Cheers,
Jase

Silly, that'd be pretty much perfect, but wont get here in time

Cheers,
Jase

[TurboRA28]

I got tender springs from Noltec. Cost a fortune.
King springs do them for cheaper I believe.

In the ae86 I just ran spacers under the shocks with nothing cut out. Limited suspension travel a lot.

In a mates T18 we welded the original spring purch back on so didn't have to pay for coilover hardware. That worked well too.

[Smokey228]

Does anyone know somewhere local to get those T3 type spacers? I'd love them if i could have them by saturday so i can put the car back together for sunday...

Cheers,
Jase

[TurboRA28]

Doubt you'll find them locally that quickly.. Have to be custom made my guess.

[Smokey228]

Joel, THats the last thing your supposed to tell me!?

I spose i'll be spacing it from the bottom with washers and using the stock bolt and put up with the rattle untill i can get something better and a helper spring...

Cheers,
Jace

[takai]

Hah, stealing my pictures again

Tender springs are overrated imho, i only had mine in there for rego purposes.

[sillycar chick]

Maybe T3 would ship pretty quickly if youre prepared to pay for it... but i also think there is someone in Australia that's an official supplier of T3 gear, but I still think they ship from US... might still pay to ask though in case they have a set...

(as per this thread http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/bo...howtopic=21026)

You might be able to get someone like AJPS to machine up something similar for you? They make their own coilover kits for the AE86 so could be able to help, they would at least have access to AGX shocks and an AE86 tube to get the thread pattern off.. or your tube to machine to suit your thread pattern... or at least shorten your struts for you... (www.AJPS.com.au)

You shoulda did what I did to keep your car on the road - get spare struts and build the coilovers up while the car is running, then it only takes a day tops to swap in your new struts

[RobertoX]

I put a spacer in the top and bottom of mine too which worked fine. But cutting off the thread and rewelding so the strut is shorter is much better. Maybe still use a spacer in the bottom, depending on how much you are lowering it.

Using spacers in the top limits the amount of bump travel that you will have compared to chopping and welding the strut.

Also, regarding the use of nylon (or whatever) spacers, if you are using one at the top you may as well use one at the bottom. Potentially the top spacer will see more load than the bottom spacer. This is because usually rebound damping will be higher than bump damping, so for any given speed of the absorber piston the rebound force will be greater than the bump force (usually).
The weight of the car does not go through the bottom of the shock, it goes through the spring and strut tube. only the damping force goes through the top and bottom of the shock. (well, the gas pressure too but that's not that large)

[Smokey228]

Uhhh, Roberto, thata makes mucha sense!!! + rep...

I got some steel tube and a ring that will get me by for now. I will prolly get some of those T3 type things from AJPS or T3... Untill then this will do

I'll hopefully sort this and take some pics for tonight...

CHeers,
Jase

[YLD-16L]

Jase, can you measure the length of the SW20 shock body while you've got it out thanks?

[Smokey228]

I beleive it was 365mm... The strut tube being 405mm...

Cheers,
Jase

[YLD-16L]

Awesome, thank Jase, sent some rep your way.

Looks like these will fit my new struts without spacers or shortening