Motec M48 Clubman on 1JZ, worth it?

[chris davey]

Derek Johns who has a 10.6 second 1j commodore uses a link of some sort. I think he had an issue with the latest upgrade of the ecu he got though. Not entirely sure but Mr DOHC knows the story.

You will find that probably any of those ecus will do a good job on your engine. The adaptronics seem cheap for the features they have IMO.

remember, on paper specs don't always transform into the most driveable car.

[Stefan]

Like I said, download the software, read the manual, see if it can do what you want.

[Pr0j3kt_SuPrA]

very intresting as im lookin to purchase 2

[EldarO]

Derek Johns who has a 10.6 second 1j commodore uses a link of some sort. I think he had an issue with the latest upgrade of the ecu he got though. Not entirely sure but Mr DOHC knows the story.

You will find that probably any of those ecus will do a good job on your engine. The adaptronics seem cheap for the features they have IMO.

remember, on paper specs don't always transform into the most driveable car.

see, thats the worst thing, i want driveable and reliable over power or power moelestative power.

seems the link can control what i want, as can the adaptronic, hence the cock-fight between the two

[XR Pilot]

Have you downloaded a selection of software and had a play yet?

[-Totenkopf-]

I don't see why people are so hung up on the software. The SM4 runs some fairly mundane software, its not pretty, but its feature packed and the Autronic is a lot 'smarter' an ECU then most others.

People talking about 3d graphs being better bar graphs etc, what is this, ECU rice? In the end, its only the figures that matter, a text table of the variables is ample, infact, when I had the E11V2 the first thing I did was worked out how to switch to text tables instead of the stupid 3d graphs. They may look good, but in the end, thats about it. They are generally awful to read (accurately).

Just a little heads up. Please don't base your opinion off how the software looks.

[EldarO]

beeen too busy to sit down and do anything, havent even pulled my pud

will do something over the weekend.

p.s. tits are fucking win.

[DX20VT]

I don't see why people are so hung up on the software. The SM4 runs some fairly mundane software, its not pretty, but its feature packed and the Autronic is a lot 'smarter' an ECU then most others.

People talking about 3d graphs being better bar graphs etc, what is this, ECU rice? In the end, its only the figures that matter, a text table of the variables is ample, infact, when I had the E11V2 the first thing I did was worked out how to switch to text tables instead of the stupid 3d graphs. They may look good, but in the end, thats about it. They are generally awful to read (accurately).

Just a little heads up. Please don't base your opinion off how the software looks.

if all you want is hp then you may be right,

But the idea of downloading the software from the net is that you can see how good the features and functions the ECU has. Different ECU's may do the same function, but how well does it do it?
Download say the link stuff, and open the sample file and you can play around and see the cold start and idle functions are quite comprehensive, different tyre of accel enrichment etc etc.

A list of features on an ECU means bugger all,
All ECU's do fuel, spark, some form of ECT compensation, etc etc
but playing with the softyware you can tell how well it will do it by how much adjustability there is.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

People talking about 3d graphs being better bar graphs etc, what is this, ECU rice? In the end, its only the figures that matter, a text table of the variables is ample, infact, when I had the E11V2 the first thing I did was worked out how to switch to text tables instead of the stupid 3d graphs. They may look good, but in the end, thats about it. They are generally awful to read (accurately).

Tha Adaptronic has both for that exact reason. It has a table of figures, then a 3D graph. You can see holes or problems with the map a shitload faster graphically and it makes it so easy to blend!

[JP]

The new adaptronic "Super ECU" which is currently in Beta looks pretty good, a lot more power in comparison to the current Adaptronic.

I've just replaced the SM4 on my Forester with a ViPEC V88 (long story but V88 will suit the future drivetrain for this car). I've been blown away by the Vipec. It's made by Link in NZ, basically the same as their new G4's. Had it tuned last tuesday and was extremely impressed with the precise ignition and fuel control, easy starting both hot and cold with my sard 800's, idle control is spot on etc etc etc. I could rave on about how impressed I am with it for ages.. Ray's support for the vipec is excellent, seems to be a lot more responsive than link's forum support (I was looking at a G3plus prior to run a subaru EZ30R... quad avcs with lift, direct fire etc etc so had a bunch of questions that I put to link via their email tech support and support forum).

The Autotune on the vipec works really well off my LC-1 wideband but we tuned most of the fuel map manually on the dyno. Was very quick to get the complete map done.

V88 has knock input and very basic "knock control" functionality, I dont have it enabled at the moment. Basically if the engine hits your specified knock level it will pull out an amount of timing you define but wont add it back in until the ignition is turned off...

Download the software and have a look, the help files are also quite detailed. The links/vipecs look to have good support for toyota engines too so I'll be trying a V44 on a turbo 1zz and a turbo 20V 4age that I've built, will be testing back to back with an adaptronic I have too (both have plug-in looms so easy to swap between ECU's.)

As a bit of a hint, you will find if you download the vipec software and the PCLink V3 software, PCLink V3 comes with quite a few base maps as part of the package. I've found you can load these base maps into the vipec software to see how things work. Not all of the settings come across properly so I wouldn't run an engine off an imported map like that, but gives a good idea of a starting point for ignition and fuel maps...

Jason

[Billzilla]

Tha Adaptronic has both for that exact reason. It has a table of figures, then a 3D graph. You can see holes or problems with the map a shitload faster graphically and it makes it so easy to blend!

Hell yeah, it's massively nicer to tune an ECU with a 3D map. I've done a little on the older Haltechs and they are a major pain in the arse like that as they only have 3D bar graphs.

[JZA70 R]

Is the 3D map advantageous because you can see 'holes' or fluctuations easier during transitions?

[Billzilla]

Yeah pretty much.
Here's an old map I was halfway through with the last 4AGE I built ->



You can get a pretty good picture of where the engine is working and where it's not, etc.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Holes predominantly, but it gives you a nice visual representation of where you are in the 3D graph in real-time. It will trace your path through the 3D graph too, so if you're experiencing a dull point, or a stutter, you can see if it's the fuelling.

With respect to holes, check these. The first is quite obviously stuffed, but see how much easier that is to depict with the 3D graph (note, this isn't one of mine, it's a starter map from the Adaptronic website for an RB25)


While it's easy to see big holes perhaps in the figures, how about minor ones like these?


Finally, it's nice being able to see when everything is nicely blended.

[Billzilla]

Finally, it's nice being able to see when everything is nicely blended.

But they don't often end up that simplistic. They kinda do on a very stock engine but on one with bigger cams, etc, then the VE can jump around a fair bit so the 3D map ends up looking a bit lumpy.
Also, to explain why the one I posted looks pretty rough - I know people sometimes use two maps in their ECU, one for economy and another for power. I try to fit both into the one and you can see it in the Motec map above. I tend to run the engine on the lean side at lower throttle settings and below about 4,000rpm. Below those limits you're most likely to be not wanting to go that fast, but with higher revs and/or lots of throttle you are, so I tip in a bit more fuel.