hey mate a little advise for anyone else about to do the same
always remark top dead center.
Ive shaved a bit off the head & will need to get cam timing back to original.
Are those marks on the backing plate accurate enough to go by?
Or should i get out the degree wheel?
hey mate a little advise for anyone else about to do the same
always remark top dead center.
I am not sure although a mate of mine bent a valve on a 4age after having the head shaved so it might be interesting to know how much you have taken out.
If you do need a degree wheel be sure to check out this post;
http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1635
You'll be fine with the marks on the backing plateOriginally Posted by bmak
Im just a little lostbut ill be fine!
Thanx for your help.
So i'll check TDC before i put the head on then see how far off the timing marks it is.
Head is only had 20thou taken off. the exhaust cam timing was out when i pulled it apart.
What do people set timing to for standard cams? And where do you measure it?
Ive never done a OHC motor only k motors.
Do you mean ignition timing? Base ignition timing is 5 degress btdc(you'll need to short Terminal E1 + T in the diagnostic connector to adjust base timing) when you unshort the terminals the timing should change to 10 deg btdc.Originally Posted by bmak
Does this answer your question?
Im just a little lostbut ill be fine!
no i mean cam timing & where do people put the dial gauge
I wouldnt worry bout going that far
What are you worried about?,do you have adjustable cam gears? Theres no adjustment in the
standard setup you either go by the exsisting marks or try and advance/retard each cam per tooth which i do not recomend at all.
You cant get it wrong
Im just a little lostbut ill be fine!
Standard cam timing it 110-110.
With a shaved head you probably should invest in a set of vernier cam wheels like the ones from toda racing.
They will allow you to set the timing with much more precision than most other methods.
1987 AW11 MR2 Supercharger (4AGZE)
1974 TA22 Celica (2TG bored and stroked)
Thanks to James Cameron's Terminator films, we know that robots are stronger, faster, tougher and more Austrian than the rest of us.
On other motors ive redrilled the gears but ive just purchased a set of gears off ebay that will do the job.
If i get time to put it back together this weekend i'll just redrill the factory gears.
How do you accurately gauge where to drill the gears?
Do you base it on the position of the cam when dialed in and the position of the wheel when pointing to the indicator marks?
I cant think of any other way of doing it and certainly no accurate ways at all...
1987 AW11 MR2 Supercharger (4AGZE)
1974 TA22 Celica (2TG bored and stroked)
Thanks to James Cameron's Terminator films, we know that robots are stronger, faster, tougher and more Austrian than the rest of us.
just measure how many degress it is out & redrill to suit. I have used another cam gear as a jig but have made my own jig to suit a k motor gear so i will have to see if i can use that.
I think making an adjustable gear from the originals would be pretty easy too. When i have more time i might draw something up in autocad & let the guys at work make a few up.
May even just copy the 1's i got off ebay![]()
either accurately or innacuratelyOriginally Posted by Starfire
either way... the holes are very unlikely to be aligned to each other (with respect to the teeth positions) and so you will have some adjustment available..
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
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