stupid 3tgte question(sorry is a real noob question)

[lilcrash]

ok i got an adapter to sort out my problem, but now it goes above 100psi wen i rev it. wat should i do?? wat would be rong

[oldcorollas]

ok i got an adapter to sort out my problem, but now it goes above 100psi wen i rev it. wat should i do?? wat would be rong

is that with cold oil? is normal..

when oil is at operating temp, the pressure will come down.... wait till oil gets hot first perhaps?
then when you rev it up (after oil is hot) it should reach a maximum around 3-4000rpm.. which is the internally regulated pressure (by the pump bypass)..

if it is still getting very high after oil is hot, then either you have a bung gauge/sender, or you have pump issues...

good luck

[mullett]

There are a few things that can cause high oil pressure. One is blockages in the block or head, cheap oil filters, and the bypass valve not working properly (all depends where in the oil system you get a reading from). Other things like crap oil, or an oil too heavy for the engine, will certainly bring it up.

RM.

[TA22 GT]

Increadible, you've gone from no pressure to too much pressure.....

The repssure will drop as the oil heats up. I don't think anything is wrong with the engine. Best bet it to ensure you have the right sender for your gauge and go from there. Sender units are made with various resistance values so if you have th wrong unit it will give a false reading.

Cheers,
Simon

[lilcrash]

i am using the sender that came with the guage, so it should be right, wat sort of oil does everyone recomend i use in my 3tgte?? just to solve the heavy oil possibility.

im pretty sure i have everything sorted except for the stutter, im hoping its the stutter making it boost late. still sounds like a flat 4, has spark on all cyl, has fuel in all cyl, but air/fuel ratio guage says rich/last bar on the guage. can it just be too rich making it stutter?? like its flodding or nething. its basically doing wat my 2tgeu was doing.

any ideas appreciated

thank you

[mullett]

Yes, it could be that, but it'd have to be majorly rich. Check your ignition setup-leads, rotor cap, rotor button, and especially the sparkplugs. My GZE sounded like a rex when I got water in the cam valley around the spark plugs. If it all seems OK, pull out each plug and earth it to something, crank the car over and see if you've got a nice consistent spark. Also check timing of course.

RM.

[lilcrash]

it is a possibility of the rotor/cap/leads but the new ones havent been delivered yet, hmmm come to think of it, im not sure if the money was taken out either. timign is right, plugs are brand new (bpr5ey) yes i know they are sposed to be bpr6ey.if it turns out to be too much of prob i will get the bpr6ey's but until then they seam to be fine,

i just checked the plugs, 7 of the plugs are fully black and one is nicely golden.

thanks and laterdays

[mullett]

how long has it been running? It should take a while to blacken a new plug, but it does sound like you're running mega rich. Have you had the injectors cleaned recently?

RM.

[lilcrash]

i have been playing with itquite a bit, and no i havent had the injectors cleaned at all.

laterdays

LiL^CrAsH

[TA22 GT]

I use the same sender unit as I had for the 2TG, I have the sender to match the Toyota oil pressure gauge.

Are you running a stock 3T GTE ECU? What mods have you got?
Sounds like its way too rich. If you have the stock set up it could be the AFM, have you adjusted the spring tension?

Has it ever run well or have you just got it running for the first time?

I assume you sorted out the oil pressure fault?

Cheers,
Simon

[lilcrash]

i am running a haltech ecu, there is zero mods that i know of, it has neva run properly while i have had it, i bought it with 6 bent valves.

yer the oil pressure relief seams to be throwing the pressure back wen it hits just ova 100 psi.

[TA22 GT]

Hmmm, due there seems to be too many variables to sort this out without seeing the engine etc.

I know the stock system pretty well and Microtech, but not Haltech. Its definately running rich, but it could be a number of things. Have you checked the Haltech manuals to see if it has fault finding in it for rich mixtures? Do you have a handset to program the ECU?

If not, your nailed and will most likely need to go to a tuning shop, otherwise too many guesses might cause more problems than its worth.....

Good luck,
Simon

[lilcrash]

the thing is that the ecu is 10 years old and it doesnt know if its running rich or not. there is no o2 sensor for the haltech, it only gets info from the tps, air sensor in the plenum and the vacuum line from the plennum. i have got a laptop and everything to tune it, and i knwo exactly wat is going on, i just dont feel comfortable turning down the map without being sure wat will happen.

i will have it registered in the next 2-3 weeks and i will book it in for a tune just after that. thank you for all the help i have gotten.

laterdays

LiL^CrAsH

[oldcorollas]

the thing is that the ecu is 10 years old and it doesnt know if its running rich or not. there is no o2 sensor for the haltech, it only gets info from the tps, air sensor in the plenum and the vacuum line from the plennum. i have got a laptop and everything to tune it, and i knwo exactly wat is going on, i just dont feel comfortable turning down the map without being sure wat will happen.

i will have it registered in the next 2-3 weeks and i will book it in for a tune just after that. thank you for all the help i have gotten.

laterdays

LiL^CrAsH

okay, heres what you can do relatively safely (befor eit starts making much boost.

RICHEN the map 10%.. (but only in a specific area, check your datalogs to see where is most appropriate)

if the problem gets worse, it was too rich already so take out 5% fuel, see if it gets better.
that is one kinda safe way to do it...

too much fuel can make the engine cut just as much as too little...

try mucking around just off idle (ie, no load, abotu 2000rpm) make it too rich and make it too lean, see what happens.. then expand the areas you play with and go from there... you should find it fairly intuitive to se what is too rich and too lean... just set it a bit to the rich side

by seat of the pants, IRA11Y and i tuned mine about 5% rich everywhere (compared to dyno)....

[mullett]

Yeah, tuning is where it's at, I didn't think to ask if it was an aftermarket managment unit. Don't try tuning yourself without a really good fuel/air meter, it's not worth the engine damage...

RM.