car seems slower after manual conversion

[VasH]

That's most likely something to do with the layshaft. 4th gear does not use any gears inside the gearbox - it effectively connects the input shaft with the output shaft, applying no thrust loads on the shafts or bearings.

Mos.

Im uploading a vid of the noise now ill repost the link when its done will take a while, If its something along those lines would i need to get it sorted asap? or is it ok to drive for a while?

[VasH]

Heres a link to the vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3e_LZmU_Ojg

[Gttwinturbomk3]

Yeah there are controls from the auto to ecu, like power/economy buttons, how will the ecu overcome that? the ecus are obviously different with manual and auto. I would think that there will be wires that plugged in or near the auto that are now unplugged and doing nothing? I am thinking that the ecu is missing some feedback or not getting a certain signal somewhere. It is quite possible that MAYBE the ecu isnt getting "drive" and still thinks it is in park or neutral??

[Gttwinturbomk3]

Im interested in this because i will do a conversion oneday too. The o/d light flicking will be either a faulty or bad speed sensor or its circuit or a faulty or bad solenoid or its circuit. It starts up fine and you havnt done anything to make it start have you??? I would say that it just had a switch for neutral/drive somewhere.

[Sciflyer]

Yeah there are controls from the auto to ecu, like power/economy buttons, how will the ecu overcome that? the ecus are obviously different with manual and auto. I would think that there will be wires that plugged in or near the auto that are now unplugged and doing nothing? I am thinking that the ecu is missing some feedback or not getting a certain signal somewhere. It is quite possible that MAYBE the ecu isnt getting "drive" and still thinks it is in park or neutral??

Power/Economy buttons on an auto just change the shift behaviour of the box, they have nothing to do with the engine at all

[TheToyman75]

I am obviously getting old and bitter. Threads like this tend to either shit me or make me lol

Vash,

The first thing you want to do is check what error codes your actually getting. There is always the chance that you may have unplugged or upset something by accident while the gearbox conversion was being done.

The 2nd thing you want to do is forget all about your clutch, no ifs, no butts, no what ifs. It is not your problem and is not really relevant.

As already stated by people who actually know the Auto ECU v's Manual ECU makes no difference at all.

Without actually test driving your vehicle its hard for anyone of us to know what the problem your describing is. If your problem is only a lack of performance compared to before but no actually misbehaviour, ie misfire, boost cut, hesitatio boost cut etc. Then most likely it is exactly as Mos described and you just need to relearn how to drive the car. A Manual 1G is not inspiring to drive unless driven properly especially in a car that heavy. The gear ratios in a Auto are also different to those of a manual. Next time you take it for a test run, nail it from 60kph in 2nd instead of 4th and get back to us

As a word of advice, if its wiring related and Mos gives you an answer, ou can generally ignore what anyone else says !

What you do need to work out in an enviroment like this is whose theories you bother considering. Basically there are only 2 kinds of bench racers, those who don't know, and those who don't know that they don't know. And then there are the people who actually do things rather than just talk about it.

[VasH]

I am obviously getting old and bitter. Threads like this tend to either shit me or make me lol

Vash,

The first thing you want to do is check what error codes your actually getting. There is always the chance that you may have unplugged or upset something by accident while the gearbox conversion was being done.

The 2nd thing you want to do is forget all about your clutch, no ifs, no butts, no what ifs. It is not your problem and is not really relevant.

As already stated by people who actually know the Auto ECU v's Manual ECU makes no difference at all.

Without actually test driving your vehicle its hard for anyone of us to know what the problem your describing is. If your problem is only a lack of performance compared to before but no actually misbehaviour, ie misfire, boost cut, hesitatio boost cut etc. Then most likely it is exactly as Mos described and you just need to relearn how to drive the car. A Manual 1G is not inspiring to drive unless driven properly especially in a car that heavy. The gear ratios in a Auto are also different to those of a manual. Next time you take it for a test run, nail it from 60kph in 2nd instead of 4th and get back to us

As a word of advice, if its wiring related and Mos gives you an answer, ou can generally ignore what anyone else says !

What you do need to work out in an enviroment like this is whose theories you bother considering. Basically there are only 2 kinds of bench racers, those who don't know, and those who don't know that they don't know. And then there are the people who actually do things rather than just talk about it.

Yea i jumped the gun a little on this thread before id really gotten used to the car, I remember there being a wire underneath the intake plenum on some sort of sensor that came off in the past and made the car completely gutless i might have bumped it by accident.... But yea i will do a once over this weekend .

The error codes im not too worried about now as most people have stated the auto ecu wont cause any issues. ill sort those out eventually but like a few people have said its most likely going "oh shit wheres the auto gone" because the check engine light doesnt come on until i start moving.

Yea i figured mos knows what hes talking about from reading his threads i wouldnt stuff around with something like the ecu how kyosho described without alot of positive feedback on that sort of task.

My main issue now is this whining noise, and the occasionally grinding noise and vibration from letting go of the accelerator in 5th probably needs a rebuild

thanks for the advice!

[Gttwinturbomk3]

like said before the error codes will be from the auto and if the o/d light was flinkin on and off like you mentioned, then it will be the codes for the speed sensor or soleinoid and it will spit out codes maybe... 42,61,62,63, or 64 which all trace back to auto troubleshooting. thats why your o/d light flicks! However if stopped now it will still be in ecu memory for you to check!

The ecus are compatible yes but only if everything else is in order..........

There are plenty of different scenarios that can occur with this that dont have anything to do with the different ecus but will effect the running of the engine.

[JZA70R_92]

check your centre bearing! mine in 5th on the freeway when letting go of accelarator would grind etc... mine had about 1.5cms play side to side etc. also with the whining noise did you use a new clutch release bearing? currently mine is whining abit as its getting old..

[Turdinator]

I know this sounds obviouse but there is oil in the gearbox isn't there?

Otherwise those whines could easily mean the box need a rebuild...

[VasH]

Yea lol there is oil ive changed it twice just to be sure

I didnt change the throw out but its quite in 4th so im guessing its a bearing then and the box needs a rebuild

[Kyosho]

Yea i figured mos knows what hes talking about from reading his threads i wouldnt stuff around with something like the ecu how kyosho described without alot of positive feedback on that sort of task.

If you want your ECU to stop having a hissy fit, I'd do as I said.

MOS: No, haven't done it on a 1G, done it to a few other cars, mainly Commos, also told people how to do it, and they all give good success in making the ECU stop spazzing out.
I didn't know the autoVSmanual ECU didn't hit limp home mode (Or a form of) when converted, but many other cars do (Commodores play up, but that's mainly because the cams are actually different auto - manual.

[Mos]

MOS: No, haven't done it on a 1G

That's exactly what I was getting at - you haven't done it on a 1G but are assuring people it will fix an unrelated problem.

If you want your ECU to stop having a hissy fit, I'd do as I said.

See, you're still doing it??

Why do you continue to insist that someone wastes their time?
Why can't you just accept that your advice is not correct for this engine?

Mos.

[jimmmayyy]

lol, this has all been covered in both of his threads already.

[Kyosho]

That's exactly what I was getting at - you haven't done it on a 1G but are assuring people it will fix an unrelated problem.


See, you're still doing it??

Why do you continue to insist that someone wastes their time?
Why can't you just accept that your advice is not correct for this engine?

Mos.

MOS: The ECU is throwing codes and flashing the CEL.
If he wants this to stop, the easy fix is to throw the resistors in place.
WHY? Because the ECU detects that it's throwing a voltage out, but getting nothing back. Hence, throw the correct resistor in there (Instead of the solenoid) and the ECU will be happy thinking there's a "gearbox" and at least fix the issue of the CEL.

The user is complaining one, of a "slow" feeling car after a conversion, and also of the CEL being on, and O/D light flickering.

What I have told him to do, WILL fix the CEL issue.