mine doesn't leak, but i just tapped it even and flush, just like the one i took out
i've bought some new seals for my 1j and upon replacing the front oil seal, i tapped it gently all the way home. I read on driftworks that their 2j s15 had an oil failure because they did this and didn't just tap the seal until it was flush which caused a relief hole to be blocked. This seems strange to me, anyone know for sure the correct method?
Cheers,
Troy
1992 MX83 Cressida Grande-1JZ-GTE...Actively Dori.
mine doesn't leak, but i just tapped it even and flush, just like the one i took out
yeah just lightly tap it home with a similar sized socket so that the force is distributed evenly. some people put some sealant on, some lightly lube it with some oil, some even put them in dry. personally i like to use a bit of sealant, loctite flange sealant? i forget the number.
Pushed min in with fingers till it was flush, same as the original one. Plenty or rubber grease on the inside and outside.
|| 91 MX83 Cressida Grande 1JZGTE - Daily || 84 MA61 Supra 2JZGE - Track ||
Flush, not home.
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
sorry to confuse, when i said home i didn't mean jam it in. just flush.
jimmmayyy,
You mentioned some put the seals in dry ? I pressume you are talking around the outside of the seal ?
I would hate to buy an engine off someone who had put the seals in completly dry, as in the inside lip area, as i would expect it to leak quite soon after ...
Genuine seals usually come with the inside lip pre-greased.
|| 91 MX83 Cressida Grande 1JZGTE - Daily || 84 MA61 Supra 2JZGE - Track ||
i have heard of some that do, not me. some people are crazy. but like gav said, most GENUINE seals come pre-greased.
Thanks peoples, looks like i gotta pull the oil pump off again and try and get it out...OR cut my losses, pry the bastard out and spend another $33![]()
1992 MX83 Cressida Grande-1JZ-GTE...Actively Dori.
Small screwdriver in between the crank ans innner lip of the seal. Be careful not to scratch the crank where you lever off it, but no need to be gentle on the old seal. Work it evenly from a few places. It'll come out.
meh...
Except it's a new seal (pushed in too far) and he was hoping to reuse it![]()
Admin, I.T., Founding Member, Toymods Car Club Inc.
2000 IS200 Sports Luxury 1UZ-FE VVTi, 1991 MX83 Grande 2JZ-GTE (sold)
Yeah i read wrong![]()
I was trying to post last nite to ask about that all the way thing.
Iv never had much tuition really but iv done a few front and rear seals. Iv not known of any to leak but iv just pushed them in to where iv found them which i thought was all the way? Its prob been only a bees dick past flush each time, but def a lil past.
And all iv ever done is give the seal a good smear of oil, but i thought this was more in aid of getting it in than anything. Dont they have engine oil lubricating them from behind?
meh...
Originally Posted by mic*
Yes there is oil behind the seal, you actually need the seal lip wet, so you must lube the lip of the seal, and rotate the seal as you push it over the shaft. Samething goes for rear axle seals. A dry seal on a dry shaft is asking for trouble.![]()
chers Chuck.
"What man can build, man can fix!"
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super glue a plastic washer to it with 2 studs off the washer , let it dry good and propper and pull . just lightly surface grind the plastic washer away .
If it were me Id just destroy it and pop another newwy in
Dave
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