Rust Removal

**Sigmeister** · 18-08-2008, 10:12 PM

Some other parts that I am going to paint:

These were cleaned using different methods but the result is generally the same. I sand blasted the hubs a little to get the few little bits of rust that electrolisys and DEOX-C missed. The good thing about sandblasting is that when it comes time to paint them with POR15, you don't need to prep the metal, you can paint straight onto it.

Otherwise POR15 recommends the following application.
First wash the parts using Marine Clean. I just spray it on and let it soak for a while to clean the metal.

You will need to rinse of all the Marine Clean really well with water and make sure it is dry. Then after they have been dried, you apply a product called Metal Ready. This etches the metal and preps it for paint so it has something to stick to. The metal will go a bit white or may have an orange tinge to it. That's fine, apparently it means it's working.

Again, this need to be rinsed with water to ensure that no traces of metal ready are left.
Dry the parts again, it is recomended that you dry them well, using a heat gun.
Finally you are ready to paint.
As I stated before I used POR15. It is quite expensive but apparently is the best in the business.

In this batch I would have liked to have sprayed it on, but opted to paint it on with a brush. It is self levelling but might need a bit of a sand afterwards:

OK, my painting skills are pretty poor but take your time and you should get a good result. I suspect it would be better if you sprayed it on. I am leaving them like this as the black is fine, but there are a range of product (Tie Coat, Top Coat) if you want to then paint over the POR15

Cost Breakdown
1L POR15 - $84
1L Marine Clean - $18 (Is mixed with water so lasts quite a while)
1L Metal Ready - $26
wirewheels and such run from $10-$20 roughly
Sanblasting cabinet - $200
Sanblasting media - $50 for corse sand

**MWP** · 19-08-2008, 04:14 AM

You forgot to mention that both the Marine Clean & Metal Ready need to be washed off thoroughly with water & dried before painting with POR15.

BTW, Marine Clean is AWESOME stuff.
I use it on everything.

**Sigmeister** · 19-08-2008, 09:05 AM

So I did.

I will update the thread.

yeah, it works brilliantly. I used to think wax and grease remover was good (Prepsol\Autosol), but this stuff is awesome.

**Esteban** · 19-08-2008, 10:17 AM

+1 Marine clean... I too use it for everything

**MWP** · 19-08-2008, 11:47 PM

And another thing...

The black POR15 rust preventative paint will change its appearance over time.
It wont stay shiny as in the photos above, itll dull and fade a bit due to UV sunlight.
This wont effect its strength or rust prevention ability though.

**Esteban** · 20-08-2008, 08:19 AM

And most places you paint black get really dirty anyway :-)

**Esteban** · 30-08-2008, 10:01 AM

How does that sandblasting cabinet go? I had one exactly the same design and it was absolutely shithouse... It never sealed, and the filter thing died quickly (never found a replacement) I tried various pressures to run the box at and never found one that blasted well whilst not emptying the box through boxes seals. Also the light was totally overcome by dust the instant you pulled the trigger and I couldn't make heads or tails for another minute or so until the dust settled again.

Is yours any better or was mine a victim of operator error?

**auto351** · 14-11-2009, 12:33 PM

Looks like the picture are no longer being served, any chance of an update to photos?

Some info on Electrolysis

Try and get a regulated power supply, battery charger are usually only rectified & not regulated (depends on the price) unregulated can slow the processes by 30%.

In order to increase the current you usually have to increase the voltage (making a stronger solution may have the same result), but speeding up the process can cause pitting uneven results (this is based on working in a plating shop many years ago) not seeing the picture not sure if it matters in this case,

Can any one tell me with this process can you restored the metal to its original form where no filler material is needed , I thinking of the lower guard section which has rusted, or maybe even the spare wheel well ?

Manuel