The guide: 4ag(z,t)e rebuild *ENGINE COMPLETE*

[slide86]

Time to fit up the water pump. Im using the one of the motor, not sure if its the genuine one or a mix n match for the RWD conversion. It seems to work ok tho. I gave it a coat of heat proof paint, just makes it look a bit nicer.

Timing belt is the next thing on. VERY important to ensure that you have the cams lined up in the correct position before you put the belt on, also having the crank lined up too!

There are a few water housing that need to be fitted up, on at the front and one at the back. Ensure to use the gaskets and i used threebond to ensure they seal.

I painted the rocker covers to make it look a bit neater. Its just heat proof paint, but i think it looks alright. Im not really into chrome and all that. But I did pick up some bling bling in the form of an oil cap. Got it of ebay for $6.00

Now, the interesting part. I was determined not to use teh stock inlet manifold. I picked up a genuine RWD manifold cheap so i thought i would use this instead. BUT it doesnt fit! Time for some modifications....Basically I retained the factory mount, I just spaced it out and lowered it by about three inches.

It looks a bit rough at the moment, but ill clean it up and paint it all. It actually works well and its quite secure and tight.

[Mr DOHC]

very nice
just a few things tho

put the rear main seal in the carrier first, then lube it up, then put it on, u must use loctite 515 {sealer} for the gasket and either loctite 262 or 515 for the seal.

u should really flatplate the oil pickup too, unless they have the litle protrusion, and u MUST use permatex 3J for the oil pickup too.


FYI everyone, the best sump sealant we have found is three bond black, its the bomb

[GTI-TRD]

Top write up indeed! great pics & simple effective descriptions well done. makes me more confident to continue my head work.

[inertia]

You gunna replace the timing belt tensioner pulley mate?

Meridian motorsport sell them, KOYO brand, same manufacturer as the factory unit but without the toyota price tag

Quite cheap. $80-90 or so.

[allencr]

Its a good idea to install the cam seals in the front caps before you tension them right down, otherwise they can be damaged if trying to hit them in afterwards.

I'd suggest the opposite.

[takai]

Reccomended is to put them in afterwards, although due to the clamping force being upon the metal to metal contact of the bearing surface it doesnt make much of a difference. Especially if you are using sealant, as you should be.

[30psi 4agte]

I say put them in AFTER !!!

if you tension the cam caps like i do tensioning the caps with the seals in can actually give u a false torque cos you are trying to crush the cam seal too.

They can be knocked in without damage by using a correct size socket or piece of pipe.

HINT i actually use a smear of permatex under each of the no1 cam caps as they can leak between the caps cos of that oil gallery. you may think that its the seal leaking BUT its not allways the case!




The only seal i put in first is the rear main into the housing before i put it on.
I feel this helps the seal locate better on the crank even though its dowlled!

[feral4mr2]

i've put them in both ways, either way works. putting them in before tensioning the end cap is a tad easier (eg. can be pushed in place with a finger).

put the rear main seal in the carrier first, then lube it up, then put it on

is what i do too. (same with front crank seal, into oil pump casing before assembly). but either way will work. i only use a light spray of Hylomar on the paper gasket.

[noobra]

nice work on the rebuild +rep

[Mr Revhead]

one thing that may help latter builds
buy your water pumps, oil pumps and cambelt parts from NZ
way WAY cheaper than auss and usually on the shelf

[adamaw11]

Good stuff, good pics.
This should be usefull for many people.

good thread overall.

[slide86]

cheers for the replys and the comments. all are useful