I THINK at the moment the exhaust gear is advanced? 2- 3 degrees and the intake is retarted 7 dregrees? does that sound right? or is the advance/retard around the wrong way?
hi everybody! ok i spoke to my engineer and he is happy to pass my car bar one problem. The motor has been setup for drag and the cam gears are adjusted out as far as possible (with the addition of massive cams) and as a result there is no vacume at idle, therefor NO BRAKES! so this car will not pass a road brake test, I want to try and save myself some time and money so that all i have to do is drop the car off for a tune. I pretty sure i know how/what to do I just need to be sure so i dont go bending any valves, also could anyone reccomend me a setting for the cam gears? The motor is a 1G the cams are custom 250 degrees duration at 50 thou and 9.2ml lift from memory.
RA23 1JZ VVTi 373hp - SOLD
12.4 @ 110mph
THE EVOROLLA262.9hp - SOLD
JZ parts facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/groups/524841910926804/
I THINK at the moment the exhaust gear is advanced? 2- 3 degrees and the intake is retarted 7 dregrees? does that sound right? or is the advance/retard around the wrong way?
RA23 1JZ VVTi 373hp - SOLD
12.4 @ 110mph
THE EVOROLLA262.9hp - SOLD
JZ parts facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/groups/524841910926804/
ide say its the wrong way around, just make sure you are %100 on the current settings, then put them back to zero, get it approved, then if you like put them back to what they were before.
thats some pretty large gap between the two, is it much lumpy at idle? and rough down low?
technically you should dial in your cam gets to be sure 0 deg on the cam gear is truly 0 deg, but they SHOULD be right.
here we go
http://youtube.com/watch?v=3pDpwZhflC4
I have been meaning to swap them around so the car is in a drivable state, so i only want to do this once. also the car is a full manualised auto . . . that at the moment doesnt idle, **** of a thing to try and drive
RA23 1JZ VVTi 373hp - SOLD
12.4 @ 110mph
THE EVOROLLA262.9hp - SOLD
JZ parts facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/groups/524841910926804/
that for real? no vac at idle is crazy, it sounds fucken sick though.
ide be trying a diff boost guage first just to be sure it for real has no vac at idle.
if it really doesnt have any reset the gears to 0.
but the gauge should move around heaps becuase it wont perfectly have 0 vac, maybe the line is on the other side of the butterfly.
250@50th are pretty big cams but you should still pull enuff vac for the booster to work does the 1-way valve still work ?, setting your gears to 0 will put it back to factory standard if your worried about bending valve's just move the gears half of what they are and turn the engine slowly by hand if all is good do the same when the gears are on 0.
i dont have a funny or cool signature.
no, nothing wrong with 1 way valve, booster or guage, i have had this thing on a few dyno's and its the way its been setup. remember now the motor was setup for drag and only drag, not to be driven on the street.
So does anyone have the procedure for the adjustment of the cam gears? do i have to take the cams out? can i leave the belt on? what shouldnt i do? any help would be appreciated?
RA23 1JZ VVTi 373hp - SOLD
12.4 @ 110mph
THE EVOROLLA262.9hp - SOLD
JZ parts facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/groups/524841910926804/
Vac tank? Ask a V8 big cam boy, been around for years should do the trick save messing with the cam timing.
Cheers Dave.
For starters, try something like a 100° inlet lobe centre and about a 106° exhaust lobe centre.
And BTW, they're cam pulleys, not gears.
www.billzilla.org
Toymods founding member #3
And by the way they're gears not pulleys.Originally Posted by Billzilla
a toothed wheel is a gear, a pulley has a V or multiple www or alternitavely is flat,
sorry for correcting your correction
Jordan, post a pic of the GEAR's current settings,
you would need to close them up to get more vacuum,
but with the amount of lift they have i dont think they will supply a shitload more.
if you do adjust them at all make sure you turn the engine over twice b4 starting as the piston-valve clearance may be close.
also don't forget to reset the base timing to suit (if you change the exhaust cam)
it would probly require a tune also.
cheers
linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
Nope, pulleys.Originally Posted by The Real Roadrunner
They have been for decades, until the sheeple on the internet picked up on either the Japanese or Yanks misusing the term.
www.billzilla.org
Toymods founding member #3
Sprockets even![]()
sprockets are used to drive chains (or be driven by chains)
Bill, definately gears, pulleys don't have teeth. dont believe me them use a dictionary (or the intahwebs if you feel like being lazy)
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
Dude simply no.
They were always pulleys until the internet started to decay our Aussie language. This is how 'headers' started to overcome extractors, 'fries' instead of chips, 'transmissions' instead of gearboxes, and I missed the meeting where 'issue' replaced problem.
I won't lower my standards to allow Aussie English to fade away.
You can bet your arse on that .... or in incorrect common terms, your donkey.![]()
www.billzilla.org
Toymods founding member #3
i prefer "my left nut".Originally Posted by Billzilla
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
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