Another of my favourites you should check out is Jaffa's TA22 project. TA22 GTR (4wd) 1uzfe Turbo Conversion
Yet to be completed but a seriouly insane proposal.
Glen
awesomeness, take a look at that link for some nice ra28 chassis strengthening!
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Another of my favourites you should check out is Jaffa's TA22 project. TA22 GTR (4wd) 1uzfe Turbo Conversion
Yet to be completed but a seriouly insane proposal.
Glen
Im not convinced by his method.
He replaced a section of the standard chassis rail and linked up the rear.
Not much different than just inserting a section to join the front and back at the passenger foot well like i did, and Joel was thinking about.
Last edited by MWP; 16-04-2009 at 02:21 PM.
Daily: Toyota '05 Rav4 Sport
Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
Previous: Corona RT104, Starlet GT Turbo
Classic Celica Club of South Australia
Originally Posted by MWP
It looks nice thoIts a tidy looking job.
He also flattened out the floor to give more room for his exhaust. This left a straight run front to back on the underside for the chassis rail.
Just by joining the rails, would this make a big difference to the rear most section of the car where i'm finding the flex? I thought i'd need some extra bracing around the end of the rails, or some trianglular brace in the boot between the rear quarters and floor maybe?
Have you got or thought of a rear strut brace between the rear shock towers?
Cheers
Cheers Dave
1977 RA28
1972 TA22
1984 Supra
The cage attaches to rear arches as a cross bar between them.. so that area is probably ok.
I cant see how just running larger rails will stop twist.
The twisting action is down the center of the car, so you need some cross bracing from one side to the other (or similar, like a full cage) to stop the twist.
I know what i did isnt ideal either, but i think strengthening the sills, then linking the sills to the chassis rails, and using a larger gbox xmember (yet to be done) will help a decent amount.
Photos...
Welded angle down the length of the sills and joined to chassis rails with RHS.
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Daily: Toyota '05 Rav4 Sport
Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
Previous: Corona RT104, Starlet GT Turbo
Classic Celica Club of South Australia
Is the rollbar and/or cage install going to have any conflicts?
If it's prefab or not, some of this stuff might be in the way of something else that should have priority.
'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!
I haven't seen many live axle cars that actually flex in that area, unless you have gone to coilovers. Even then a rear strut brace will do bugger all in most cases.Originally Posted by airfireman1
Callum
MWP, i can't see by that last picture (or my eyes can't interpret the angles of it correctly) but how have you butted the angle iron against the sill, is it that the flat end joins perpendicular to the sill edge or the flat part butts up against it?
what thickness rhs is everyone using? 2mm? 3mm? or even bigger?
... and even less in a RS23/28 as there is a lot of box chassis back there already.Originally Posted by WDE_BDY
Errrm, im not sure what you mean by your question...Originally Posted by barned01
The angle was 2mm from memory, and the RHS was 3mm.
Another photo from a slightly different angle if it helps:
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Daily: Toyota '05 Rav4 Sport
Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
Previous: Corona RT104, Starlet GT Turbo
Classic Celica Club of South Australia
where are you guys in Sydney getting your RHS from? Whats the price like for 2 & 3mm per metre? got a mate who can source some from his work, just want to know what rrp is and how good of a deal he can get me.
In Tamworth i just bought 6 meters of 50x50x3mm agsteel (between second and first grade) for $67 on special.
50x50x3mm 1st grade was around 30 a meter !
That is a bit big for this sort of car stuff but it might give you an idea tho.
I dare say that 25x25 would be half the price.
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