F series diff - billet axles

[oldcorollas]

hmm, found this for dana 30 vs 44 axles

The axle shaft diameter for the Dana 30 is approx. 1 1/8" while the Dana 44 is approx 1 5/16". Approx. 1/4" difference between them.

and from here
http://www.jb4x4.com/tech_dana44fntov.htm

There is a slight axle diameter increase between the Dana 30 (left) and the Dana 44 (right). The Dana 30 has a 27 spline / 1.16-inch diameter axle shaft, with an maximum torque rating of approximately 4100 lbs-ft. This "smaller" axle is best suited to 31 or 33 inch tire. The Dana 44 axle is 30 spline / 1.31-inch unit, with a maximum torque rating of approximately 6000 lbs-ft

We're committed now to a Toyota 8" rear axle from an early 80's 4WD. The 30 spine 4WD axles shafts are a bit larger than the Dana 30.

[Esteban]

I wonder if toyotasuperaxles do F-series?

[TheStitt]

Email sent

[IN 05 NT]

hmm, found this for dana 30 vs 44 axles


and from here
http://www.jb4x4.com/tech_dana44fntov.htm

hmm thats some conflicting info across the interwebs.

im still trying to find my spare axles(not liking the chance...), want to measure them up

maybe i'll just ask Bigworm, as i think he has some spares also.

[oldcorollas]

could be difference between ovlovs and jeeps and whatever too...

[IN 05 NT]

could be difference between ovlovs and jeeps and whatever too...

well im definately interested to find out, as ive always gone by the info on the site i posted above,

might pull an axle at pickies on the wkend. as im interedted to know what the go is.

[Sprinterboy]

Phill, If you upgrade, I'll buy your old F series.

[merc-blue]

Just get a set made, its really not that bigger investment.

we have 270 odd HP going through axels smaller than what was in my first T series and we have only broken one (due to bad design) and that was from sudden loading from the car popping onto 2 wheels off curbs

The trick with them is to make them smaller belive it or not.
I will go into more detail when i have time

[1JZ-Rolla]

Tell use more, merc-blue!

Justin, I removed my diff after the dyno day on Sunday, axles have faired just fine with no twist on this set, so will rebuild the centre & keep the F series for now.

Cheers
Phil

[Sprinterboy]

keep me posted if you decide to move it on.

J

[TheStitt]

I'm keen to here about this to merc

[merc-blue]

OK well i tryed to make this simple
I have drawn 2 axels here, first one is a big fat as fat as your spline axel
The weakest spot is right on the edge of the spine

the second axel has fat spines and a thinner sheft, the weakest point being the entier length of the axel

The easyest way to explain this is with chain

The first axel has 2 weakspot (i drew it for a full floating axel as thats what im used to)
The 2 links in that chain right before the splines are weakest, say that linke can take 12 units of twist before it deforms. so at 13 units your start to twist off the end and each time you go over 12units it twists abit more and gets weaker till bang off comes the end

The second axel has lots of weak spots say they can only take 8 units before they deform. but there are say 20 of them that means the first link can twist 6 units than the next link can twist 6 units and so on and so on 20 times which gives you 120 units before the axel deforms at all.

I know this isnt how it really works but its the easyest way to explain it.


So, i would be getting axels made, save you building a whole new rear for the car.




ARRRGGHH, my internet is being crap and i cnat upload the pics i will try my best them up ASAP, i will also get some photos of good and bad axels,