3SGTE oil pumps.

[rolleraction]

I say stuffed guage or blockage as no way your motor would survive race conditions for a season on 25 psi at full revs (especially if you;ve increased compression and you are reving the nuts off it).

Rellocate pressure feed or have guage checked or both. Also, the stock location in the head results in a delay of the oil guage indicating pressure at start up (ie from cold)
The delay can be disconcerting as oil warning light stays of for longer than necessary and you worry for a sec that all is ok. Also when you blip the throttle, the delay with the oil gauge 'catching up' is annoying....

As Glenn said, move the feed near the filter (remote mounted or otherwise) and you get a better and more responsive reading

[Celica RA45]

also not to burst your bubble linden most of the new motors as in altezza have a oil restriction built into the head gasket so from 6mm into 2.5 mm for the head

fwiw i use to put a 2mm oil restriction plug into the back oil gallery on the gen 2 motor and was using a mechanical oil pressure guage on head and on the oil remoter filter there is something like a 30 psi difference on a std motor

also if you go up to the 5s block you will have to remote oil feed the vvti as the 3s altezza blocks are unique with the extra oil gallery to feed the vvti and also for the oil return on the cyl head back to the block as well

[strat]

Firstly i have 50 psi @ idle when cold and goes to 60 @ revs. 20 @ idle when hot and goes to 25 30ish @ revs. I have tryed swaping my warning lite and guage around with minimal results. My warning lite is located on the remote oil filter inbetween the oil cooler and block. All guages are brand new Auto Meter. Tonite i am going to try removing the oil cooler and running it stock style with filter mounted on the block. I have a feeling that it is the oil cooler causing the problems as it is a crapy masive oil cooler with more mods done to it than Michael Jacksons face! ill keep yall posted. cheers for all this help i wanna get this problem sorted before i go to Eastern Creek.

[oldcorollas]

is it a full flow or bypass cooler?

[strat]

is it a full flow or bypass cooler?

Im not to sure its a modified RX7 S4 cooler im in the process of removing it now, just had to have a break before i start braking things

[The Real Roadrunner]

also not to burst your bubble linden most of the new motors as in altezza have a oil restriction built into the head gasket so from 6mm into 2.5 mm for the head

not doubting that in any way shape or form but the pressure in the head on a GTE should still be well above 25psi as they dont run a restrictor and i personally wouldn't run the engine with less than 50psi at the head.

my engine was a gen3 so it may have a wider pump than strats which gave it more pressure but he hasn't told us what gen his engine is.

strat, have you removed the thermostat out of the S4 oil cooler?

when you modified the pickup to suit rwd did you test for pinholes than may be allowing air to be sucked into the system?

what oil temps are you getting? is it possible that the oil is getting too hot?

need abit more info to figure out whats wrong.

actually b4 you had the engine rebuilt what pressure were you getting?

cheers
linden

[strat]

mid 92 to oct 93 SW20 GEN 2 SW20 3SGTE.
S4 oil cooler had no thermostat, have had all the restiction fins in the cooler removed.
Pick up was modified and tested with no problems.
Oil temp unknown but i gather it gets hot as i have a slight water temp issue also.
B4 i had enginine rebuilt we had worse PSI thats why we had to rebuild it. spun bearing.
Engine in it now is fair junk and fully slaped together as we had a week turn-around to get it done this time last year, so a new crank std size acl race bearing's a quick hone with mahle rings. all else internal STD with 26psi boost getting 215RWKW with a 36mm ristrictor.

[Celica RA45]

strat dont you mean 36mm restricter

[Cuts]

what turbo you running? any cams? ecu?
just interested cause thats not a bad power figure.

as an example i put a new oil pump in my engine when i built it, and with a mechanical oil press guage off the head (ive got an electric one on order now) mine reads about 60 psi when cold and idling, when in traffic in town and its hot it usually hovers around 20, when giving lots of shoe when the engine is warm sits around 50-60.

what weight oil you running? prehaps go to something thicker.

[The Real Roadrunner]

cuts, 25W60 as per his earlier post so its already very thick.
yours seems to run the same sort of pressure as mine did so maybe its an early gen thing.

cheers
linden

[Cuts]

cool i must have missed that man, or i forgot (latter more likely)
i wouldnt run anything thicker then 25, prob wouldnt even run that.
prehaps new oil pump.
prehaps the sender in the head is semi blocked

[strat]

Edit glenn. sorry long day...
microtec ecu, turbo is custom and very secret but basicly a HKS disco potato. other than that stock az internally.
could be a early gen thing, have'nt taken off cooler. yet my damm filter removing tool is busted and filter is very tight so will do tomozza and let yall know.

[strat]

I think i have fixed the problem! Re-fitted the oil filter as standard (to the block) started the motor and my oil psi went straight up to 75psi cold (50 psi before) let the car warm up the pressure went down to 35 / 40 psi at idle but with revs straight back to 75psi. So the problem was the stupid cooler. So now im on the hunt for a smaller more suitable cooler, any ideas?? PWR make some nice looking ones there is heaps to chose from. Dont want to make the same mistake twice, want to find the right type and size.

[oldcorollas]

is the S4 cooler similar to earlier ones with a thermostat inside? do they flow back to the sump in stock apps or are they full flow?

if they are stock bypass, then they would have to be restrictive, to not bleed off all the oil pressure..

do you have the 2S oil heater/coolerstill fitted?

[The Real Roadrunner]

RX7 oil cooler are only worth there weight in scrap IMHO,
strat, im honestly yet to have a problem with the $40 specials on ebay that i have run in many of my customers street cars (and my own track car) so i would look for something along the lines of a 19row with a minimum of dash -10 male fittings on it.

mount it on VL aibox rubbers (or similar) to take out any vibrations from the car that may cause it to crack.

also be sure to make it flow out of the top of the cooler no matter which way you mount it, this will ensure that any air introduced into the system by a cavitating pump will not build up inside b4 letting a huge air bubble into the system.

the above problem happened to a very well known drift car and i warned the driver about it the night b4 a practise day only to be told that XXXXXX company built it and they know better than me....... two practice days later it developed a loud knock from the bigends.

also is that pressure at the head or the block?

cheers
linden