Good suspension set-up for Ta22 celica

[dave-86]

hey guys im after a gd suspension setup for a ta22 celica, something that is stiff and balanced and gd enough for the occasional hill run. Nothing too expensive though, as im currently on tight budget. I guess keep it to the essentials.

The suspension i have in my car are basically stock and consist of monroe gas shocks, cut stiffen springs (1"), and a heavyduty front swaybar and hopefully some xt130 corona lca's.

What are your suggestions?

Cheers,
David

[The Real Roadrunner]

budget? even an approx figure you want / would be willing to spend?

cheers
linden

[Grega]

firstly, get rid of your cut springs. who knows what rate they are currently providing you - even a set of king springs with known rate would probably be better.

what exactly is your budget (as per linden) as to what you can achieve. a good set of sway bars are normally very underrated and would be one of the first places i'd be looking (the TA22 stock doesn't have a rear swaybar (my D series doesnt anyway, not sure about the T series))

[Rodger]

My POV.
Camber, castor and ride height is a key to making the 22 handle.

Get as much castor as you can. Replace the radius rod bushes with poly. Replace all your steering ball joints, the idler arm bush and the lower control arm bush with a OEM rubber bushes.

Buy a good upper strut top that is not poly or rubber that allows both castor and camber adjustment. Get a spring with a rate around 240-260kg and set the height so the lower arm is parallel to the ground.

+6 degrees castor is heavy but is what mine is. Try for -2 degrees camber for softish street tires.

Replace the bushes in the rear trailing arms, preferably with the OEM rubber stuff (if they can be found, probably at any steering suspension place and my reasons are scatered through out these forums) or at least take the arms somewhere to have the bushes checked.

Set the height so the lower arms are parallel to the road and the Panhard bar is also horizontal. Off the shelf Mark 1 Escort front heavy duty raised springs, are a good rate and height here.

I do not recommend a rear bar. I also use a standard front bar. Softer tyres may need an add on, adjustable front bar but it then also depends on camber. My shocks are the Koni reds, standard rating at the back on 3/4 hard and uprated 40% bump and rebound on the front set again 3/4 hard.

Your Monroes are ok to start with as long as they are in good condition so do not change them for the sake of it.

My Green 22, as others observe also, handles well on the track, it is too stiff compared the the lack of grip from old tyres, for the road but is good on the track and has basically the above set up.

Regards

Rodger

[dave-86]

we'll my budget for now is about $300. Im planning to get new springs, new bushes and lca's. Im not sure what else to get, but i guess if i can get an idea of what people are using in their cars, it may help me with my suspension setup later on once i can get some more cash.

[jfallen]

$300 isn't much, you can barely scratch together a good pair of dampers for that money.

I've got a CA18DET in my TA22, and have had it with the vague steering and wander under brakes. So it's ball joints all round for me (not cheap.)

Rodger, have you evar heard of people replaceing the rubber bush that connects the stering collum to the steering box with somethign more solid, say Aluminium or Nylon?

Cheers
jordan

[Rodger]

Jordan,

I have not heard about it but when you look at the connection closely the steering column does not line up exactly with the steering box input shaft. The column is at a different angle through the firewall and needs some flex at that joint and poly or nylon will not have enough flex either.
What is done here is to replace the rubber pad with a universal joint, but there is a far bit of fabrication to do that.

If Dave is selective, $300 may go close if the rear arm bushes are ok. Dave could wheel and deal to get OEM rear arms with good rubber bushes, any of the Toyotas that run them and have solid (complete) bushes, as opposed to later ones that have air space around in the rubber part (T18, AE86, RA60 as examples).
He really dont need shocks at this time. A look around the wreckers for rear springs. The K-Mac poly strut tops can be used, I have them but got them from a retired shell, so effectively very cheap, they can fall apart on a very stiff suspension so that is why I do not like. Camber could be gained by moving the inner LCA mount hole outwards 10mm or so.

A gheto strut brace can be made for a few dollars if your handy with a welder. A bit of plate to make a two bolt strut plate for each side, 10mm rod ends and M10 nuts and a length of 20mm metal gal conduit.

Used front add on sway bar.

I say Dave spends wisely and see how he goes.

Good buying.

Regards

Rodger

[dave-86]

Thanks for that roger, u've been great help. Most of the parts would be from the wreckers such as the springs, lca's etc. I guess you dont need to spend a whole lot when some of parts can be found at the wreckers for much cheaper, however there are some dodgey parts out there, so you'll have to look carefully. I'd probably get brand new bushes if i can.

Roger i was just wondering how could i move the inner LCA mount hole outwards? i didnt even know you could do that, it seems like a tricky task. Also would you happen to know anyone that made custom strut braces for Ta22's or anyone on the forum?.

Thanks,
David

[jfallen]

I think someone has a TA22 strut brace for sale at the moment, but making a stut brace is fairly easy, if you've got the tools and a welder.

Rodger, I thought that might have been the case. Now there's even more cash to spend to get the TA22 steering right. Oh well, it'll be worth it in the end (holds on to fadeing hope.)

Jordan

[Rodger]

David,

Lots of us older club racers and supersprinters simply got the drill out and drilled a new hole outboard and slighty upwards on the cross member bracket, effectively pushing the lower arm further out. Cheap and easy to do and I am sure we are still doing it.
The change in steering/ suspension geometry/behaviour is relatively insignificant and to be honest most of us track day and sprint/hill climb guys would not notice. We gain seconds a lap from good tyres, some camber, driving techniques and horsepower. What we loose through this change is nothing compared to the gain in camber.

Basically what I am saying, at this level of motorsport it is a simple mod to gain good benifits and you need not stress over any of it until you want those tenths of seconds a lap.

Regards

Rodger

[The Green Terror]

It may seem obvious but get a really good wheel alignment as well. I've had a few over the years, but it wasn't until I took The Green Terror to Peter at Capital Steering & Suspension in Fyshwick that I realised that all the others had been shite. It's straight for the first time since I've had it (16 odd years) and it made a hell of a difference. Steering box was adjusted (very small amount) and it handles like never before. Of course listen to Uncle Rodger as well, he knows stuff that no mortal man knows