i've think that most people change the vvti cams when going for decent power so thats why no one would really bother using the vvti over the non-vvti head as it would be cheaper.
Anyone done the swap with a Vvt 1J GTE head? any reasons the Vvt head will cause problems ?(2J slightly lower comp)
Any extra machining etc?
i've think that most people change the vvti cams when going for decent power so thats why no one would really bother using the vvti over the non-vvti head as it would be cheaper.
Says who? You can get larger cams that still suit the VVTi.
If money is no object to you then go the VVTi head for sure.
Plan is (if it does not involve too much screwing around) is to leave head/cams/ Turbo /computer from the 1JZGTE VvT-probably only change the injectors. Quite happy with the power its making now, in a 260Z (which is 250Kg lighter than the Chaser it came out of-Weight drop makes it fast enough for me-road car/cruiser)
I want to run it with the Vvt. Machining is one thing I need to Know,Anybody? and if the different stroke/ compression will confuse the factory ECU.Can't see that it should, but there is always something to come unstuck.
1J running perfect, not dumping it yet. but can pick up a short 2J engine which could be a good spare to have if all the head bits swap over,
sorry, didn't mean no one bothers as it isn't a good idea i meant it in a way that maybe not many people have done this conversion so thats why there's not much info on the topic and more people chose the non vvti head as its more common and cheaper. but you prob know this so i don't know why i commented. sounds awesome if you do go ahead with this conversion.
Last edited by jet81j; 30-03-2008 at 08:14 PM.
ive done it.
its fairly simple:
you have to machine two slots to join two water galeries in the head and also move the cam lubrication port about 5mm by welding up the hole and then angle drilling intil you break back in to the 1j port you also have to use a 2jz tt head gasket not 1j. i used a standard toyota gasket, carillo rods 8.5C/R cp (.025" over) pistons and have a comp ratio of 9.8:1 if you have any questions im more than willing to help i may even have some photos somewhere
the engine is in a hiace(11.1 121mph ET) now but going to go in a 240z (400 kg lighter and aerodynamic![]()
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sound like we have similar plans
I've had the 1J Vvt in and running for 2 years 10000Ks thanks for info, as I said 2J only to sit till I need it,If you need any engine install help, yell, interested in pic's if you still have them on machining.my engine install is sticky in Toyota section hybridz.org
it's an easy swap.
Edit 240z/260z despite the look, are not all that aerodynamic, a house brick probably has a better drag co efficient(E types are not much better)
They look good though(as long as they don't have the back seat option)
nice article, what diff are you running in the z and hows it holding up? also what about the steering rack i read somthing about a suburu uni joint? are you running power steering?
i will have to find them photos, its really pretty a simple conversion. i think you will have problems with the ecu (unless you go aftermarket) when i changed fom th 1jz bottom end to the 2jz bottom end my timing was 2% out on my microtech (i dont know how much timing in degrees) and also the fuel maps where way out.
Subaru Liberty rack,1998-about 2002, bit of work to fit it,but gives a solid feel ,and set up for 2 turns lock to lock.
Strictly a road car/ cruiser, diff(you would probably want the numbers going the other way) started at standard R200 3.7,Dry road,probably destroy a set of tyres in a 100 yards, on a wet road(mist was enough)would do figure 8's when doing quiet starts from traffic lights, I want longer legs, went to 3,5, which was better,then got lucky and found a R200 3,33(only came in auto 240Z's)dont need screaming wheelspin starts, but once it starts to move, it flies.Still beats Boxters,(I have surprise on my side)
I thought there might be tuning problems, May have to look at aftermaket ECU,(thanks)
I'm in Sydney If you want to see how it all fits in a Z ,
yeah im in wollongong, my zed is a 71 240 and i have it sitting there ready to start work i cant wait. it would be great to see your car and pick your brain. one weekend ill try and go for a cruiz up to have a look ill also bring the vvti 1.5jz hiace![]()
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A 71, YES! no backseat (and sh:t ugly bodyshell)Originally Posted by al167
PM'ed phone number , interesting to pick your brains on tuning etc.
Last edited by splatt; 03-04-2008 at 06:42 AM.
Sounds like it would be a nice car combo ... As far as body shells go, i reckon they only went ugly from the 260z 2+2 onwards to stretched for my liking ...
iOriginally Posted by lexsmaz
i agree lol but the 240s mainly better because its lighter![]()
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this is a picture of a stock 240z and a 240z in the states, this one is rb26 powered.
but the body is what im modeling mine off.
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^^^ thats hot!!!!!!!!!!!
[QUOTE=al167]i
i agree lol but the 240s mainly better because its lighter![]()
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It's a tradeoff, from late 1975 the 2 seater body, was strengthened(and picked up a bit of weight) to handle the extra power of the 2,8 engine(USA market only,),
Even though the rest of the world stayed with the 260 engine till the end of the S30 shape,Datsun used the US 280Z strengthened body in all markets.
In the States,this later shell is the prefered starting point for a big power build.
Here in Oz we got early and late 260Z shells(forget the abominabe plus 2 which was a lot heavier anyway) early ones were the lighter 240Z body, with a 2.6L engine,From late 1975,2.6L engine in US 280Z shell,Identifiable by the vented bonnet, and apart from minor trim changes nearly identical.The big weight increase when you look at the figures for USA 280Z's was due to the huge 5 mile an hour impact bumpers which were never fitted in Oz market cars.
Vented bonnet is probably a must do retrofit to earlier Zs if you plan power-Possibly the only good thing about plus2's, a source of the later type bonnets.The sooner they get to the tip the better.
Last edited by splatt; 04-04-2008 at 08:42 AM.
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