I'm very interested in this too any body got any ideas?
G'day all,
I'm sorting out the water flow around my engine bay.
Now i don't have a heater element - so no water flows through there, no water through my turbo either.
So i am looking at removing alot of the piping around the block - including the heating/cooling to the oil filter (will be running an oil cooler anyway).
So the real question is, is any of the piping necessary? Does the water flow through the head and the block properly with all this external stuff removed or are there external flow areas required for proper flow?
i want to blank all this off as much as possible.
Cheers
Stew
Last edited by Toy77; 23-03-2008 at 06:17 PM.
Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines. – Enzo Ferrari
I'm very interested in this too any body got any ideas?
i think i have at home a photo with the water flow of a 1jz (paths etc)
1JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GTE Cooling systems are identical
I deleted the supply to the throttle body, idle control valve and oil cooler without any issues over a few years.
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GSE20 IS250 - daily
UZZ30 Soarer - 1UZ-FE/R154/Adaptronic - trackday roughie
UZZ32 Soarer - Active Hydropneumatic Suspension (A-SUS) & Active Four Wheel Steering (A-4WS) - cruiser
Thanks for that info,
When you removed those parts, did you blank them off or bypass them?
Cheers
Stew
Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines. – Enzo Ferrari
Oil cooler was bypassed whereas ICV and throttle body were blocked off
Originally Posted by Toy77
GSE20 IS250 - daily
UZZ30 Soarer - 1UZ-FE/R154/Adaptronic - trackday roughie
UZZ32 Soarer - Active Hydropneumatic Suspension (A-SUS) & Active Four Wheel Steering (A-4WS) - cruiser
do not remove the oil cooler as it has a oil filter relief valve in it so that if your filter blocks up (can happen even if regulary changed) the engine will still be lubricated.
id sugest to not stuff around too much with it, as toyota has figured out exactly how to flow the water to keep the engine cool in all the right places (ie not hot spots) if you have seen a 1jz head gasket with all th flow control ports you will see what i mean. this will keep your engine nice and reliable(toyota reliable.
what i would do is just cap off the turbo water ports and heater ports. or join the two together(easier) and run a hose from from the block bypasing the throttle body and iac valve to the pipe at rear as it would be from factory but not heating the throttle body. i assume your blanking the iac valve off.
do not remove the oil cooler as it has a oil filter relief valve in it so that if your filter blocks up (can happen even if regulary changed) the engine will still be lubricated.
How do you suggest 1jz-ge and 2jz-ge engines hold together without an oil cooler and said valve from the factory?Originally Posted by al167
GSE20 IS250 - daily
UZZ30 Soarer - 1UZ-FE/R154/Adaptronic - trackday roughie
UZZ32 Soarer - Active Hydropneumatic Suspension (A-SUS) & Active Four Wheel Steering (A-4WS) - cruiser
I've removed lots of cooling stuff from my 2JZ. The pipe which comes off the back of the water pump and goes around the back of the engine has been removed completely; I made up a blanking plate to block off the hole in the water pump. The pipe at the back of the head has been blocked off with a rubber bung, and the hole in the side of the block near the oil filter has been blocked off with a bolt. I still have the water-to-oil cooler in its original location, mostly because I couldn't figure out how to attach the oil filter without it, but there's no water flowing through it any more.
It's amazing how much simpler the engine is when you can remove all this stuff.![]()
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
FWIW most of the water pipeing by Toyota is dedicated to getting immediate heat into the heater core. Well worth it if you live in the colder parts of the world.
cheers Chuck.
"What man can build, man can fix!"
MS51Crown Coupe,
GSV40R Aurion luxo tourer. One TA22 currently receiving some TLC prior to paint One RS56 Crown ute under construction, 2 x TA22's awaiting rebuilds. Toyota Crown RS47J ute in need of serious TLC. Toyota Crown Custom Wagon MS53 daily hauler stocko!
Thanks guys,
Norbie - thats exactly what i was wanting to do - getting rid of that pipe give me more room for my dump pipe.
Thanks again for all the info
Cheers
Stew
Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines. – Enzo Ferrari
I would strongly suggest running the outlet from the back of the head into the top radiator hose to purge the extra heat that accumulates at the back of the head.Originally Posted by Norbie
The difference between it blocked and bypassed was quite noticeable when tuning as the detonation point was a few degrees lower with it blocked (heater tap closed).
Most dead 1/2JZs seem to kill cylinders number 5 and 6 and that's has been attributed by some here and in Japan to it's higher running temps that far back in the head.
A few of us run water bypass lines on our street/track cars to minimise this.
GSE20 IS250 - daily
UZZ30 Soarer - 1UZ-FE/R154/Adaptronic - trackday roughie
UZZ32 Soarer - Active Hydropneumatic Suspension (A-SUS) & Active Four Wheel Steering (A-4WS) - cruiser
Cheers manny, i was wondering this in my own thread.
1992 MX83 Cressida Grande-1JZ-GTE...Actively Dori.
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