1982 Hilux - what do I look out for?? - no longer needed for me...

[o_man_ra23]

Gday all,

EDITED - Hilux I was previously looking at has been sold, another is available.
I am considering purchasing a 1982 4X4 Diesel Hilux Dualcab and am wondering what sort of things to look out for on them?? It is an aluminium tray'd model with bullbar, sideskirts and towbar. I dont expect the body to be very good, nor the interior, but dont really care. So long as it is mechanically sound, I will be happy. So what do I look for that is a really expensive fix??

If I get this, I will put the RA28 on club rego, and use it to collect parts etc.

Thanks in advance for any advice, and +rep to all who give positive comments/warnings.

[The Real Roadrunner]

floors that look more like swiss cheese is the main one.

look for slop/play in the front CVs if you plan on doing a bit of 4wding as it can be expensive to repair them.

handbrake is on the transfer case and generally they wear out if left slightly on.

other than that they are generally reliable.

cheers
linden

[o_man_ra23]

Rusty floorpan I should be able to fix, but thanks for the info on the other 2. How do I check for the CV's?? The usual steer to full lock and listen for a click?? (hubs engaged of course)

[The Real Roadrunner]

pretty much, try taking if for abit of a drive on loose dirt/gravel as it would be most noticable then.

also check for movement aroun the king pins as they can wear pretty badly if not regularly greased.

also check the tops of the A pillars as they're commonly rusted thru

cheers
linden

[madmont]

Never seen one with handbrake on the transfer or king pins which need greasing
Listen for clicking when turning in 4wd to check cvs
look for cracked chassis around the front end by shock tower and front spring hanger

[roadkill]

Hi,

Check for rust/cracks through the chassis rails esecially near the back of the cab. Also, make sure all the electricals work - not expensive to fix but in mine there's been dodgy wires that take forever to find and fix! If you're thinking of getting a 5spd later on keep in mind you'll need get a different gearbox xmember, new front and rear tailshafts, and the 5spd isn't cheap either.

If you need bits lemme know, i've got a complete 4spd drivetrain from front hubs to rear drums. Usually not too hard to find bits for though.

This is a great way to find out just how gutless an 18rc is!!!

bEn

[The Real Roadrunner]

Never seen one with handbrake on the transfer or king pins which need greasing
Listen for clicking when turning in 4wd to check cvs
look for cracked chassis around the front end by shock tower and front spring hanger

shit, thats right its the cruisers that have the handbrake on the transfer. king pins still need to be checked as the one i bought had a shitload of play and my only option was to replace the entire housing and hubs.

forgot about the shock tower as mine was cracked also (but it had been rolled by the previous owner)

cheers
linden

[o_man_ra23]

OK... note the edit in the first post... now looking at a Diesel dualcab thats a couple of years newer. I will be going to have a look at it Saturday arvo. I take everything thats been said apart from the comments on the 18RC will still be valid.

History of this vehicle... 240,000kms, current owner purchased it, but works overseas and wanted something with a bigger tray, and does not have time to fix the issues so he is selling cheap. Issues he mentioned were:
Diesel Injector pump leaks... I have been told that is a common problem when running sulpher free diesel.
Front left brake is sticky... probably just needs a kitting and flushing.
Rust in the lower part of one of the rear doors.

Apart from that, the transmission has been reconditioned, and the bloke selling it tells me there is no rust that he is aware of in the chassis (or other places of the body). He tells me that the interior is pretty dirty and a bit musty, as it has sat undercover on a farm in the hills for a year and a half, and the paint is pretty rough.

How do I test the kingpins?? Oh, and excuse the noobness... but where do I find the kingpins??

Thanks again all.

[wa5]

diesel Hilux's need to have regular oil changes, The figure I often hear quoted is every 5000 Kms. they have been known to eat big end bearings. I had a V8 82 Hilux a few years ago, and the chassis was cracked under the cab on the passengers side.

Rust is comon above the windscreen. if it has been bogged up on the outside (try lifting the windscreen rubber a little to check) . then it will still be easy to check on the inside by pressing the rooflining just above the windscreen on the inside .... just "behind" the sun visors.. .. if it feels "crunchy" there is rust.... lots of rust.

King pins are what the front wheel pivot left and right on.
there will be people who know more about this than me but they should be tested by trying to move the top of the tyre in and out and listening and feeling for a click which would indicate wear. (with tyre off ground).

[o_man_ra23]

I was under the impression that the 4cyl diesels were pretty tough??

[The Real Roadrunner]

they are what holds the swivel hubs on the front housing (could have another name for them but thats what most ppl call them)
jack up under the front housing and check for movement similar to checking wheel bearings, if you have a mate handy get him to whatch while you reef on the low side of the tyre.


cheers
linden

[roadkill]

I was under the impression that the 4cyl diesels were pretty tough??

Hi,

like anything if it is well looked after then yes, toyota diesels will get 3-500ks before major repairs. Very true for the oil changes at 5000k for diesels!!! The old 4cyl diesels may be tough but they are fairly gutless. I would suggest looking for a turbo 2L (ie LN46), or a freshlly rebuilt n/a one so you can whack a turbo on to get good power/torque.

As for the injector pump, from memory it is a fairly common thing to go wrong on a diesel but i'd look into repair/replacement price before purchase as from memory they aren't the cheapest thing.

I'd also be having a very good look at that front left brake setup. Wouldn't wanna have to get the disc machined etc.

What model is it you're looking at too??

bEn

[2jzhilux]

If the fuel pump is just leaking and not stuffed the top cover o ring and the shaft o ring can be replaced it is a bit tricky to do but could be done at home with a little guidance
Any more than that and budget about 2k for fuel pump rebuild


Front swivel hub bearings can be felt by jacking up the front end and turning the wheel by hand and feeling if it is notchy ,usually they will be notchy towards the straight ahead position but you can also check them like you do for worn ball joints up and down play.Also check for excessive grease leakage from the balls and check the front diff oil as if the inner axle seals are gone there will be greased mixed in with the diff oil.

[o_man_ra23]

LN4x I would hazard a guess at... will check the build plate on Saturday

[SL666]

I've heard injector pumps can be ridiculously expensive..

Check around where the doors seal against the A pillar for rust, also along the line in the body at the back of the cab.. (horizontal line about a foot up from the bottom of the cab)