1982 Hilux - what do I look out for?? - no longer needed for me...

[boos_rolla]

hey dude,,,

i had a 84` hilux dual cab 2.4l diesel.. as mentioned check around front windscreen for rust, check gearbox and transfer case while in hi/low range with hubs locked make sure no probs with that, as for iinjecter pump, if it on slightly leaking and you have relative patcience(??) you can change the o-rings yourself i did mine in about 4hrs just really fiddly... check the kingpins and make sure the front hubs arnt leaking....

rough price on what shit cost..

rebuilt gearbox only (no transfer case) i got quoted $1800 +gst
transfer case $2000+
new injector pump or rebulid your one around $400

the shit adds preety quick especially when i only paid $4000 for mine and it was in really good nik...
but i could never seem to break it when i took it offroad....

hope this helps..

chris

[Esteban]

Rebuilding front axle swivel hubs cost us about $600 replacing nearly everything with cost price genuine parts and free labour. That said it will last another 400 000km now though... Not that it will do that many kays with us owning it :-)

[o_man_ra23]

Got some prices today... best price on a complete new injector pump was $700 (if it is a 2L motor, then I could probably get cheaper, I am basing my prices on the harder to get L items). Seal kit the only price I got was $60 for a 2L pump... have not chased genuine prices yet.

For front CVs, Wheel bearing kits and swivel hub kits (including pivot bearings) I got priced about $520 retail today... dont know what brands. If the kingpins are sloppy, would it actually be the pivot bearings??

Worst case on the calliper, if it needs new pistons and a full rebuild, it will cost $205.

So, as long as it is only one of those items with a major problem, maybe 2 if its the swivel hubs and brake calliper... and there are no cracks or rust in the chassis, I should be sweet. I am not worried about body rust, I will just mig that up and paint over, probably not even bother bogging if my welds are small enough.

If there are cracks in the Chassis, can I just grind them out, weld them up, smooth them off and paint over them?? Or would that be just too unsafe??

[roadkill]

Hi Owen,

I think that legally you have to grind the chassis back and put a plate over it. Not sure if it has to be bolted or welded. Realistically though, i would just sand it back, weld it together and then cover it in body deadener so no one can see it when u get a rwc. Unless your doing some seroius 4wding or carting big weights wouldn't be too worried about it at all.

bEn

[The Real Roadrunner]

if the main channels of the chassis are cracked just V them with a grinder and weld them up. once welded grind them smooth and weld a 6" (minimum) 3mm plate over the top then it should be sweet.

cheers
linden

[o_man_ra23]

Thanks Linden and Ben. I think I would go with Ben's option for a RWC, then with Linden's to finish it off properly. Of course if there are cracks everywhere, then I will pass it up.

Thanks again for the info everyone... please keep more items coming.

[Esteban]

Yeah well as a measure of treatment, we bananna'd the front diff in our LN65 100kmh through a culvit, and there are no cracks in the chassis AFAIK ... So you'd have to wonder how hard it'd been treated to crack the chassis IMHO...

[roadkill]

Hi,

i think it would be more so from rust weakening the chassis and driving on rough terrain. If a chassis was cracked through impact the car would be completely totalled and would be squashed.

bEn

[SL666]

Might be worth looking up the brands of a few shocks that they recommend for 'airborn' work, and make sure the one you look at doesn't have them

[wheel rim]

Owen,
Check for rusty/ leaking fuel tank( hard to find spare ones),centre bearing mounting bolts are not rusty/broken, front diff has a stabiliser bar that runs from top of diff to chassis,check the mounting bolts and bushes for wear.

Cheers, Wheelie

[Esteban]

Ours only seems prone to rust in the body, the chassis is fine. And as for rough terrain cracks, ours spent it's first 310000kms in the NT ...

[o_man_ra23]

Yeah, rust in the chassis is one of my big criteria. Body rust, as mentioned, doesnt bother me much. Fuel tank may/may not be an issue, will probably be able to make a new one up easy enough if its a big drama.

[The Real Roadrunner]

Fuel tank may/may not be an issue, will probably be able to make a new one up easy enough if its a big drama.

trust me when i say its easier to just find one in better condition. my alloy one took about 16 long hrs to build (and no i dont plan on doing it again)

cheers
linden

[o_man_ra23]

I have a boilermaker's shed available to me... pay a few cartons and get somebody else to make it using company materials

[The Real Roadrunner]

I have a boilermaker's shed available to me... pay a few kegs and get somebody else to make it using company materials

fixed for you, trust me its no funs at all.

if you did by chance need a new tank pay the $100 odd to bouncer spares in smithfield and bolty bolty.

cheers
linden