to me, .007- intake and .011 sounds on the tight side of things!
22r has cast iron or alu head?
Best thing to do is get the thing hot, then check clearance, and close them down accordingly.
I adjusted my valve lash on the Celica yesterday and they were actually all pretty good, none the less I put all the adjustments dead on spec for the cam.
The spec is .007 intake and .011 exhaust. They seem kind of large to me. I'm not an experience person with this motor, so I was wondering if you fellas generally go tighter than spec? My father said that he did, but I wanted to see what your opinions were too. Basically I can hear the rocker valve lash when it's warm it it just kind of annoys me. I know nothing is wrong, the engine is probably less than 10K miles old and runs great, and everything felt and looked great when I was in there adjusting it.
73 Celica (New track car) - 20/22R Hybrid, caged, built suspension, AE86 brakes, 5 speed, 155 rwhp, 165 rwtq all motor!
86 Crown Vic (Old track car) - 5.0L HO, 2.5: dual exhuast, 5 speed, TruTrac 3.55, race suspension, race seats, grandma track car turned tow vehicle.
to me, .007- intake and .011 sounds on the tight side of things!
22r has cast iron or alu head?
Best thing to do is get the thing hot, then check clearance, and close them down accordingly.
I did the adjustments warm, and that is what LC Engineering specified for clearances. It's a Stage III 20R aluminum head and Stage III 20R cam from LC Engineering. Sorry, guess I should have mentioned that.
73 Celica (New track car) - 20/22R Hybrid, caged, built suspension, AE86 brakes, 5 speed, 155 rwhp, 165 rwtq all motor!
86 Crown Vic (Old track car) - 5.0L HO, 2.5: dual exhuast, 5 speed, TruTrac 3.55, race suspension, race seats, grandma track car turned tow vehicle.
We went to the standard spec but there is still a slight rattle and is very common for these engines. Pretty much it was one of those "that'll do" things.
1JZ MZ20 Soarer - 4AGZE KE70 Corolla - 4AGE AE86 - 4AGE KE70
I'm afraid to go tighter, because the engine is pretty quiet when cold. This could be caused by two things, either the engine closes the gaps when cold, or it's just the oil being thicker when cold. If it's oil then I would go tighter, but if the gaps are smaller when cold, then I wouldn't want to adjust to the point of interference when cold. I guess one of these days I should check the lash when cold and see what it is, then check it right after warm and the cold again and see the results. Would be good to have the information anyways.
73 Celica (New track car) - 20/22R Hybrid, caged, built suspension, AE86 brakes, 5 speed, 155 rwhp, 165 rwtq all motor!
86 Crown Vic (Old track car) - 5.0L HO, 2.5: dual exhuast, 5 speed, TruTrac 3.55, race suspension, race seats, grandma track car turned tow vehicle.
not that you should try this, but as an example. On any all (block and head) aluminium engines iv done i set the lash at zero when cold.
I do this because of the amount of expansion thats takes place and the clearance grows to around .016" when warm.
Last edited by jeffro ra28; 07-02-2008 at 08:02 AM.
Experiment a little with the cold/hot side of things, but I would just keep it to spec. The 22R's have always been a little chattery up top. They are a truck engine remember.![]()
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I'm going out of town this week, but when I get back I'll do a cold/warm/cold test and find out exactly how much the clearance changes. I'll be sure to post up the results.
73 Celica (New track car) - 20/22R Hybrid, caged, built suspension, AE86 brakes, 5 speed, 155 rwhp, 165 rwtq all motor!
86 Crown Vic (Old track car) - 5.0L HO, 2.5: dual exhuast, 5 speed, TruTrac 3.55, race suspension, race seats, grandma track car turned tow vehicle.
Do they all sound even - roughly the same, all 8, 12, 16 whatever?
It's a machine and it is supposed to make noise, but some manufacturers have gone out of there way to have a more 'gentle' slope ground on it. I guess yours didn't.
DON'T SET IT TO ZERO.
Having ample contact time on the seat to transfer heat is more important then your feelings, don't obsess over it & turn up the radio.
Oh indeed, I was only planning to closing it down to like .005 (was .007) for intake and .009 (was .011) for exhaust. There were all pretty even.But it also hasn't been too long since it was adjusted as well.
This is all dependent on what I find. If I find that it is at those specs or less when cold, then I'm not going to do anything to them. Whether I do anything, it'll be good to get the info anyways.
73 Celica (New track car) - 20/22R Hybrid, caged, built suspension, AE86 brakes, 5 speed, 155 rwhp, 165 rwtq all motor!
86 Crown Vic (Old track car) - 5.0L HO, 2.5: dual exhuast, 5 speed, TruTrac 3.55, race suspension, race seats, grandma track car turned tow vehicle.
I'd ask the guys at the Old Celica Club mailing list and/or forums if it's still going - bunch of mainly U.S. 2xR experts. Find it at www.celicas.org
I let the motor get hot, then set lash adjusters to what feels like almost zero clearance, it's not the proper way of doing things, but it's worked for me and it's nice to think the motor will be quiet for a few months![]()
so then when its cold it will leave the valves open?
Dont laugh but on a 22R the rocker cover sits too close to the rocker's and when the rockercover gasket gets old or the cover is bolted down to tight the rockers (only 1 or 2) hit the rockercover giving you a "clack clack" noise that you would swar is a lose tappet.
I Spent ages chasing that noise on my old hilux and affter the 3rd tappet adjustment I worked it out.
To see if that is what yours is doing just loosen the rocker cover and maybe lift it a bit when its running and the "clack clack" should stop.
Hopefully I may have just saved some fustration for some ppl and some burnt valves from overadjusting. ( no gap!! who does that LOL)
Regards
MATT.
Wouldn't it be the case if I set the valves to zero clearance when cold they would be open when hot??Originally Posted by jeffro ra28
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