Leaking sump... I think

[Intense]

Serviced my car a few days ago and on the way to work the day after I noticed a pool of oil underneath the car on my way out. In a rush so I didn't pay much attention to it, car still had good oil pressure so didn't bother me. Got to work and parked the car and popped out and had a look and there were a few drips of fresh oil.
Checked my sump plug and oil filter, both tight and neither appear to be leaking. But on my sump is a shiny bit where it's hit something else.
I'm thinking my sump is warped and leaking from near the gasket in which case I'll have to grab another one and chuck it on.

So, is it hard to swap a sump over? Engines a ae101 4agze in an ae86 and I'm not sure what sumps will fit. Will any 7 rib block sump fit or does it have to be specific to the ae101 4agze.
And please tell me this is something easy to do that a ham fisted moron like myself could do, if not any idea on the going rate to get it done for me?

Cheers

[skiddz]

any 4a sump will fit

[Intense]

even 4a-c? Mad, can be had for nothing then

[The Real Roadrunner]

does the 4a-c run an external oil cooler/ bypass setup? you will probly need a 100kw sump to replace whats there now.

cheers
linden

[Intense]

So is it possible to take the sump off without removing the engine from the car?

[skiddz]

yep, drain oil first!!!!! i didnt got kinda messy really quick, stick a jack under the sump jack it up to a fairly reasonable height then put blocks underneith the mounts and then undo bolts

[TheStitt]

huh??

I think you meant to write jack the car to a reasonable height. Put some blocks or stands in and atempt to pull the sump.

You may need to move oil lines or steering components to get it out. not sure i've never done one

[skiddz]

i thought jacking the car up prior to all this was a reasonable assumption?

no i mean the engine, cos that way you can get the bolts out of the part that sits above the crossmember

[Z2TT]

Hi,

I have noticed that I have a leaking sump too, leaks from the seal.
Engine is a 1g-gte, Same procedure? no need to take engine out?

Where would I be able to get myself a new seal for this sump?

I dont plan to replace it anytime soon, but will it be safe to drive the car around like this? It leaks a few drops every hour.

[Grega]

Z2TT - no
Coz the 1G is a north south engine, its a bigger job than a FWD setup.

Intense........like has been said you will need a sump from a 4A thats got the oil drain in it matey. Also there is no gasket per se - you use a tube of the good old 3 bond goo to make the thing seal.

[brett_celicacoupe]

Hi,

I have noticed that I have a leaking sump too, leaks from the seal.
Engine is a 1g-gte, Same procedure? no need to take engine out?

Where would I be able to get myself a new seal for this sump?

I dont plan to replace it anytime soon, but will it be safe to drive the car around like this? It leaks a few drops every hour.

1g sump doesnt have a seal as such. you just use form in place gasket (FIPG) which can be bought from toyota

[Z2TT]

Do toyota still produce gaskets for the 1g?
How much will one cost?

Is there any other option than ordering from toyota since I have to pay for postate?

[MRMOPARMAN]

Do toyota still produce gaskets for the 1g?
How much will one cost?

Is there any other option than ordering from toyota since I have to pay for postate?

1g sump doesnt have a seal as such. you just use form in place gasket (FIPG) which can be bought from toyota

what brett means is toyota uses silicon to seal the sump. not any old silicon will do though, it must be oil/fuel resistant, temp resistant or atleast 150 degrees, and cure neutral.
you can get stuff like ultrablue/ultragrey or similar, which you can get from any auto/hardware joint, or all car dealers will have something that will do the job.. eg chrysler = atf rtv, holden = tojo etc etc or 3 bond as grega said.

if your lucky you will be able to get the sump off without removing the engine.. highly doubtful though.. most of the time you can get away with undoing the engine mounts, and lifting the engine up somehow and supporting it while you take the sump off and reseal.

its a bit of an art.. you dont wanna go overboard with the silicon as you will get little silicon worms all through your oil galleries etc, but obviously if you dont use enough it will leak again. you want a line evened out in the centre of the sealing surface of the sump, roughly 5ish mm in height all way around..
also if you have a seperate windage tray like 4age's that will have to be resealed aswell. when fitting it a tiny bit of silicon squeezed out of the pan/block joint is ok, if anymore than that comes out though, chances are it will look exactly the same on the inside of the pan/block joint, and should be resealed again to minimise silicon worms.

while the sump is off you may aswell check for warpage/depressions along the pan rail by cleaning the surface and running a straight edge along and across the sump, and mesuring with feeler gauges. its not too bad having low points at bolt holes, as it will be pressed flat when doing the bolts up, depressions in the middle of bolt holes is undesirable, if its too deep it wont be suffficiently pressed when the bolts are tightened.

try to get the specs on the bolt torques too.. usually the sump bolts torques are tiny.. eg 10nm or similar.. its very easy to break off a bolt in the block, also you can warp the sump by overtightening.

hth

[Hash_ra23]

^^ good info...has anyone got a repair manual style procedure on doing the above. Or do you get instructions with the sump sealant? I need to replace mine on the 1ggte soon, and i want to make sure i do it properly. The above is good but pics would be even better! I'm pretty sure the repair manual for the 1gge i have doesnt have this procedure.

[brett_celicacoupe]

go by the supra TSRM for the 7m, it will be more or less the same