itb's on 16v 4age, almost there, need a little help

**DeftAnesthetik** · 21-01-2008, 07:35 AM

well i have been going and going almost all week and i am now nearing the time when the intake system is done... only a couple of concerns.

for those not following this you can look here http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=23613 rather than me double posting pics.

my main concern right now is idle control, i just don't know what to do. is it possible to just adjust the tension on the throttle cable for idle? or what should i be doing?

**jezza323** · 21-01-2008, 09:22 AM

if you dont mind having it idle high, you can just turn everything in the car on (lights, A/C, high beams, stereo on 11

etc) and adjust the throttle stop screw until it idles ok, then add a couple of hundred rpm to that idle by adjusting the throttle stop a little more.

then you will never stall.........unfortunately if you have all the gear turned off, it will probably idle very high.

your other options are to get an inline idle control valve and split it into all 4 runners after the throttle, and put a little filter on the other end. this aint too good if u dont have spare vac ports on the runners though

**DeftAnesthetik** · 22-01-2008, 11:03 AM

what about the ports on the underside of the throttles, the vacuum on these is turned on and off by the throttles. can i somehow use them to control idle? ie no vacuum = idle on / vacuum = idle off. I also have kept the vac port on the rear tvis plate in case i needed it, been thinkin i would use it for my charcoal canister. From the old intake system i will have the vacuum switching valve from the tvis as well if it helps me at all. I also have a pushbutton switch that has a long threaded mounting bolt, with two nuts (

) i coud make it adjustable(kinda like a throttle cable) and have the throttle return, pushing the button and acting as a trigger. i would only have to fab up a bracket. DAMNIT, i wish i had kept the icsv from the ST head it would have made it so much easier.

I still need to know if i should keep or scrap the dashpot?

**Ben Wilson** · 22-01-2008, 12:48 PM

**Warning - Wacky idea warning**

If you pull apart the old 16v TB, you should be able to isolate the wax pellet idle controller, It shouldn't be too hard to build a distribution chamber with some 5mm or so hoses leading to some pipes epoxied the the existing runners.

Hook up some water lines and you *should* have some sort of idle control.

**DeftAnesthetik** · 29-01-2008, 02:08 AM

welll i spent the weekend on this and now have the engine running with the quads....... idle is great( very surpisinglly) but the car will not rev past 3000rpm and also seems to be running rather rich. i will take video and post later (after the work shift) but in the mean time does anyone have any ideas.

edit: it hit me on the way out the door... pulled tps and viola, free revving happiness, but now the idle has roughed up. so anyways 20v TPS adjustment, i went looking but found only others wondering how to do it without any answers. if anyone has a link or an AE101 manual that describes the adjustment process... please please please let me know. Its lunch, i decided to take a spin around the block

(cuz i got quads) what a difference in response.... hit gas=go now.

I guess i will have to get a youtube account to post vids, i'll see what i can do this evening but i forgot im cooking for company so it might be another day. also will get the pics up of the actual install.

AND ALL ON STOCK MANAGEMENT.

**Ben Wilson** · 29-01-2008, 08:20 AM

Have you tried the adjustment procedures for the blacktop? There are heaps of copies of the blacktop manual out there..

**Matt-AE86** · 29-01-2008, 09:33 AM

I used quads on stock managment for awhile last year. Just ran quite rich down low and specially on idle.

**The Real Roadrunner** · 29-01-2008, 01:33 PM

Originally Posted by DeftAnesthetik

I still need to know if i should keep or scrap the dashpot?

keep the dashpot if you dont want it to bounce/stall when it comes back to idle. heaps of ppl remove them and it makes tuning a PITA.

cheers
linden

PS, VL coldstart valve may help if needed, thats what i used on mine.

**trdee** · 30-01-2008, 09:59 AM

what manifold adaptor did you use mate?

**DeftAnesthetik** · 30-01-2008, 02:38 PM

Originally Posted by trdee

what manifold adaptor did you use mate?

ebay item. not sure if he is selling them $125..... im still thinking of picking up a t3 though. this one is a pain in the ass as it is just slightly too long to put in assembled you have to put in the adaptor then the throttles... fitting the gaskets and 12 bolts w/nuts in around all that linkage... .ughhhh. i went and invested $200 for a set of ratcheting wrenches with flex heads, without them i think i would still be turning bolts.

well i tried the Blacktop TPS specs to no avail but i am unsure if my tps is any good (is there a method of testing these?) i have the old tps, can i make this work. at a glance i think it would fit and as far as i understand toyota only made the two types of variable tps's (clockwise/counterclockwise)

without tps this has been drinking the fuel like crazy 65km on a quarter tank.... not good. im using the lowest of the low for injectors (blue plug single nozzle)

also i have removed the overflow tank for the coolant..... can i run a closed loop system like this or should i be finding a place to fit the coolant bottle back in.

**DeftAnesthetik** · 02-02-2008, 06:43 AM

well somewhere along the way i heard i should reverse the wiring to the TPS, seemed logical, one opens clockwise, the other counterclockwise. reversing the wiring = not correct. I looked at wiring diagrams for the 20v and the 16v(which i should have done in the first place) and gots it all hooked up right. now though i adjust to BT spec and its still dumping in the fuel..... looks like i will be tuning the autronic twice.

another q here, whats the best means to block the coldstart injector feed from the fuel rail. i have a bolt in there now but its not quite threaded the same so im leaking.