Diff Ideas for TA22....... Please help

[Stan_204]

Hey guys,

i was wondering if any one can give ma pointers in the right direction as to what diff to use in a TA22. I am looking at an LSD, but i need something stronger and with a ratio around the 3.8:1 - 4:1 mark.
The TA22 Celica is currently running a 3T-C but i am looking at upgrading to a 3TG or if i get adventurous, a 3S-GTE.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheerz.

Stan

[Norbie]

If you're staying naturally aspirated, keep the current T series diff and whack in one of the many LSD centres designed for the AE86. You only need to do a diff conversion if you're upgrading to a turbo engine, in which case the F series diff is the pick of the bunch.

Apparently the YR22 Tarago diff is the way to go, it's a similar overall width and has a 4x114.3 stud pattern. Add a TrueTrac torsen centre and you'll have an indestructible rear end with traction aplenty.

[13BTTA22]

If you have a little bit of money to play with you could always think about a hilux conversion.Heaps of ratios and they are tough.I give mine a hiding and no troubles at all.

[Norbie]

Hilux diffs are near indestructible and they're great for drag-style launches, but for a turbo 4 cylinder on the street it's massive overkill and you have all that unsprung weight for no reason. Hilux diffs are heavy. Also the 5-stud hubs will be a bit of a pain.

[The Real Roadrunner]

the only easy conversion is an RN25 hilux diff as it is the correct width but finding 1 may prove dificult and as norbie said they are very heavy.

the YR22 torago diff does go in but needs to be shortened by about 80mm to get the correct width but this depends on the wheel offset you run.

MX13 or 23 would be the best bet as they are only 40mm wider than stock and could be shortened by this amount with relative ease.

F series will give you the best compromise between strength and weight but if drag racing is your plan i would use a G series / hilux diff. 6 stud axles can be redrilled with relative ease to 4 stud without having holes interfering.

cheers
linden

[TheToyman75]

The stock T series diff is about as strong as wet pasta so I wouldn't bother with a T series LSD unless you are mechanically sympathetic (Soft) on it.

[o_man_ra23]

Well, if drag racing really is your thing, I guess it depends how nasty your going to go. If your going to do something like this:


Then you may need a diff like this:


But as said, if your staying aspo, go a T series. If your turbocharging, then you need to weigh up your options, F series is lighter and plenty strong, with your choice of 4 and 5 stud available, but you will need to shorten it. G series is indestructable, has massive brakes available, plenty of ratios and LSDs, but can be a bit thin on the ground and is mega heavy.

I will personally be using a G series due to the massive availability of parts at lucky times and lucky prices. I picked up virtually everything I needed at good prices though.

[terryo]

I've built/shortened/modified lots of these in all different types. we raced with T series diffs in AE86's for years, no hassles. they are light and easy to work with. plenty of ratios and LSD's.
everything else is far too heavy for a TA car, unless it has mega power.
A hilux diff is nearly 20kg heavier. it might be tough, but that costs HP to drag it around if you dont need it
work out what engine power you expect and go from there.
call me if necessary or come out for a look at some. www.roadandtrack.net.au
terry

[Stan_204]

By the sounds of it, i will stick with the T series diff for now until i get more power. I just need to replace it, as it is whining like a biatch that hasn't eaten for a month !
Thanks for ya help guys, it will definatly come in handy.

[o_man_ra23]

Remember that if you have the T series (check your build plate, the early TA22s had D series), that the RA23, RA28 and RA40 diff centres all fit perfectly and are the same ratio. However, if you want a longer ratio that is better for highway use, go with the RA60 centre as it has 3.9:1 ratios rather than the standard 4.1:1s

[CLG]

Another cheap upgrade, not mentioned here yet is a Borg Warner diff from an R31 Skyline - these are factory 4x114.3 PCD (wheel studs are a different pitch to toyota though), live axle, disc braked, 28 spline axles, and some are LSD from the factory too. They are wider than a TA22-RA28 diff, some people have chosen to shorten them (their diff centre is offset resulting in two uneven axle lengths - you simply make the old "short" axle the new "long" axle, and then you only need to cut and respline one axle), or careful selelction of wheel size and offset will also see them fit underneath at standard length.

[o_man_ra23]

But then the problem is you have a rear loading bog warmer which needs to be shimmed to adjust the backlash, rather than the banjo style of Toyota diffs, where you only need to rotate some bearing tension adjusters to set the backlash. Just a big PITA if you ask me.

[CLG]

Yeah, cos the untrained diff rebuilder is going to do that in his shed?!

[o_man_ra23]

A good backyard mechanic can easily lash a Banjo style diff... its a lot harder to shim the lash in a rear loader (yes, I have done both before)

[Norbie]

I know a few R31 Skyline owners and according to them it's now very hard to find a non-munted LSD rear end. Plenty of non-LSD ones but that would hardly be an upgrade.