What size turbo would you use to make 400 - 450 WHP (max) with a 1JZ...

[chris davey]

Thought I may add this in this section as there is lots of talk of gt30's and 35's.

If you have an internally gated gt3582R 1.06 a/r (xr6T) can you do a direct swap to a gt3076R with internal gate? Actually just checking the garrett website, can you get a gt3076r with internal gate? The current turbo is the 4 bolt exhaust flange not vband. They have the same t3 flange to manifold so that is fine. I would expect the water and oil lines to be the same but can anyone confirm? Compressor outlet size may be different but not worried about that.

Thanks
Chris

[The Real Roadrunner]

compressor outlets can be different depending on what housing is used.

the only thing that may be different is the outlet size on the 3076 I/G, it may use the smaller 4 bolt flange but im not 100% sure on that.

cheers
linden

[JZA70 R]

comparison withdrawn. i should have known better

[chris davey]

what's wrong with that? Looks like a good power curve to me. Also, as you know dynos are just dynos

[JZA70 R]

Well, it seems like its making less horsepower than a smaller 3076 turbo on similar boost. You would think it would be up around 300kw at that kind of pressure, take jampac for example. and it has all the supporting mods. What do you reckon?

[big_zop]

It is auto too - and i know Jampacs was as well. And are you able to get more info so boost response can be compared?

Could be a variety of differences if youre trying to compare two different setups (accessories, tune, fuel, ratio/tyre/diff - things that havent been stated) on different dynos (as chris has already suggested).

[renxun]

since its a turbo talk here maybe someone can enlightened me wid a lil... recently i went to custom a turbo from garret for an upgrade for my t70.

since the price for a journal bearing and ball bearings are almost 2 times the price here in malaysia, i opt for the jounal instead. this is the spec i asked for ... compressor 66.7mm a/r 70, turbine 64mm, 360degrees trust washer bearing. and when i was asked for the turbine housing that i would opt for i was given few choices.... t3 flanged without the twin scroll or the t4 wid twin scroll entry. im not sure what are the advantage of both however i just go wid the previous existing setup which is the t4 flanged twin scrolled entry. and for the turbine housing supposingly i should use a 0.84 wid my setup. but being afraid of the fairly lag jounal bearing characteristics, i opt for the 0.7a/r instead and machined the rear housing to fit my turbine in.

im not sure whether im doing the right thing or what... im being told by the guy also that since im going to 0.7 turbine housing then why not use the smaller turbine instead. being afraid of being restricted flow wid the small turbine thats why i stick wid the 64mm to the 0.7a/r housing.. and if i need more then i can just plug and play the 0.84 housing ... well thats just theory guys... what you guys think of this setup? what are the use of the twin scroll design?and theoritically wid my setup how much whp would i expect to max out wid my turbo flow?

i still havent get it running yet... still doing my fuel line upgrades.. since no one could guide me here im just doing things at rough logical guess of my own..

[Dieseltrain]

Jampac was making 24-25psi when his setup made 304rwkw... SO i would assume 280rwkw on 21psi aint too bad.

Dont forget, different dump pipes and screamer pipes or plumb back type wastegated setups, can all make a difference.

[chris davey]

jza70r: as daniel said, Jampac was using more boost than that. I did comp maps for the 3076 and I thought it was out of efficiency at about 23psi so it probably won't make as much per psi above that. Either way another 3-4psi on the 3082 should see it over 300rwkw pretty comfortably I would think. (pending fuel used)

renxun: sounds like a decent setup to me. I think one of the main benefits of the twin entry is that you can get a manifold that points straight into one side and one into the other. a T3 turbine housing should come on boost a bit quicker but with a 66mm comp wheel I think a T4 housing is better as you don't want the rear holding you back. Not sure if you can just swap from .7 to .84 turbine but I don't think you will outflow the .7 unless you run like 30+ psi.

[renxun]

chris i sent u a pm the other day... could u reply me ?

finally got it running... set my fuel base pressure (wid vacuum hose unplugged) at 36psi. plug the hose in and i get somewhere between 2-3 bar...

did some tune today... i found out that the powerband is way too lag for street driving...for drag it will be just nice ....it will only full boost on 5500rpm for 1.5bar. however i felt that the stock cam is maxing out and way out of its powerband... i could feel that the car wanted to go at earlier rpm but cant as the lag is holding me back... and once it rushed in, its suppose to be very fast but i can felt the other way round like the cam ran out of powerband and holding me back....

i dun need massive numbers of rpm and im looking at shifting around 7000rpm so may i knw wat spec of cam should i go wid it. i used to have a pair of 272 but its way beyond my taste.... so can anyone recommend? and does my setup ok for extra boost if i go 106 octane? if yess , then what boost?

[Dieseltrain]

264's would be perfect for that type of powerband.. should peak power around 7-7.2kish...

[chris davey]

for starters, I reckon as your car is manual, I would be looking some cams to increase the power band. If it is making full boost at 5500rpm I would want to be revving it to about 8k so it drops right back into peak torque on gear changes. Did you have HKS 272's before? With what size turbo? If so, HKS 264's are the next steup down or some crower 264's which are similar but cheaper also.

re fuel: I am pretty conservative re boost levels but I was planning on running 20psi on 98RON in cressida. I will also be running 20psi but with 100hp nitrous in the corona and that will use a 50/50 mix or 100ron and 115RON so similar to what you are using. Derek with the crazy 1j ute was using the same mix of fuel I am going to use to run 27psi boost and 100shot of nitrous on a stock internals (272 cams) 1j with gt35 .8 rear so if the tune is safe I do believe that you could run a fair bit more boost. Probably closer to 2 bar would be ok if you wanted. At these sorts of boost levels, the additional power you would get with some decent cams is pretty huge.

my 2c

p.s what are you going to do about tuning resoluting in microtech? I thought you had the 22psi version? Just tune the last column for say 25psi and then if you run 22 it will just be rich and less timing. I suppose it would have a slight rich section coming on boost then.

[renxun]

oh gosh ... i guess we are getting way out of the topic of the thread starters. lets get back to topic..... regarding my matter i guess i will open a new thread and we can discuss there...

to make a streetable 400whp-450whp wid fairly good response and meaty mid range i will suggest the greddy t70 that i had been using previously. or if u are keen on hybrid turbo there is a combination that i tried b4. its a 54mm front compressor trim a/r 70 front, journal bearing , 360degree trust washer, 2 1/8" turbine exducer, t4 flanged twin scroll wid the a/r of 0.58

wid the hybrid i managed to get slightly above 400whp wid a help of my hks 272 at 25psi. the flow is maxed out .... altough it is but its still somewhere where u want it to be and i could tell u its a damm quick drift machine wid this setup it came boost as early as 2500rpm, getting fast at 3500rpm and meaty mid range all the way to 6500rpm b4 the power curve droped a little b4 going into red line

[hamgatan]

just to rehash an old thread.

im a bit pissed at the messing around ive done lately with these replacement ct12a's that just wont make boost, and i think i've lost the heart to even fix it so i'm going to bin them, sell my recently acquired dumps and pull the motor and clean the engine bay up and respray it. will do some minor things like relocating igniters etc into the guards as well. anyhow back on topic.. i wont have any snails attached when it comes to rebuilding it so.. here are my options. i too am lookin at about 400rwhp tops. key point is reliability.

1. High Flowed CT26 /57trim on DriftMotion custom 1JZ Manifold
(http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Item1jzct26manifoldkit.php)
This looks the business, but is their claimed over 400rwhp actual or are they talking shit out their arse? Sure its a slightly smaller option than most singles, but I figured a properly rebuilt/steel wheeled 57trim, or even a Garrett GT trim high-flowed CT26 would still be a damn reliable/quick spooling option? Im not looking to do shane-spec quarters, just be able to keep good revs/boost when sliding.. Obviously CT26 will be water and oil cooled. Lets say $600 to pick up a decent secondhand high flowed CT26, or $750'ish for a 57trim, and $500 for the manifold shipped to Oz.

2. Masterpower T60 .84A/R / T04S Housing on custom T4 Flanged Manifold
http://www.frantik.co.nz/Products/T-60/masterpower.htm
I've heard good things about the Masterpower range (can someone confirm?). Ezra's running one of their T70's at the moment on a 2J and seems happy with it. Only available in oil cooled. About $850 for the Turbo.

3. or the obvious GT35R on a custom manifold as the other option... more reliable I would imagine than the T60, but $1700-$1800 :s

If i look at options 2 and 3, and lets say i wanted to stay away from eBay spec manifolds. I don't care if some guys have had them for 2 years without a leak.. they simply dont have the R&D backing them that proven fabricators like Kyle/Linden have behind them. Once the things all back together i don't want to pull it apart for a very long time lets just say.. Linden / Kyle, what should I be looking at pricewise for one of your 1J single Mani's? (I'm estimating how much I need to budget here for this...).

I'm not going to rebuild with supporting mods like cams at this stage. The only 3 likely mods I will do for the rebuild will be a Mines/Blitz Access JZA70 ECU (tuned for 550's, eliminated boost cut and speed cut), Bosch 040 Fuel Pump, and possibly aftermarket fuel rail / 550cc Injectors. Will this be sufficient to feed 400 ponies to the ground? This is realistically all I want to shoot for.

Chris

[chris davey]

yes 550's will be ok for 400rwhp.

You will still need a safc type thing to mod the mines/blitz ecu most likely unless you just get lucky.

option 2 looks doable as a 60mm comp wheel will definitely have enough flow to make 400rwhp. the T300 turbine: is that a HKS style t3? I seem to remember that model number from an older turbo. This housing with .84 a/r should be enough to flow 400rwhp if it is silimar to normal t3 flange. Wouldn't go any smaller though on a t3 flange as I reckon they will start to chock up a bit around 400rwhp.

gt35 .8 turbine a/r will make that power at around 20-21psi I expect and would make boost a bit earlier than the master power one I reckon being BB and otherwise similar wheel specs.

Or gt3076r if you want to run a bit more boost to make the 400rwhp however this probably will decrease the reliability of the setup compared to a gt35 running slightly less boost.

I don't like ct26's so I won't give opinion on that as I don't have any real reason for not liking them

my 2c