re the leaking issue, did you ensure there was a copper washer either side of the banjo fitting?
Hey all!
Ok i know what i have done was pretty stupid but i needed it fixed for the toymods cruise!
I own an SX celica and replaced pretty much everything there is to replace whenever i buy a new car... oil, coolant, plugs, dizzy cap, rotor, fuel filter.... now when i installed the new fuel filter no matter HOW tight it got, it would always piss out fuel.
It wasn't dribbling it was a tiny little stream coming from the thread, having the shits that i spent $44 on a filter and it being the night before the cruise i thought fck it, and applied silicone around the thread.. It wasnt leaking anymore!
Skip a few weeks to now.. I am having a problem in the morning that was never there when i bought teh car. In the mornings she would start instantly with no hesitationsNow.. when im cranking her she will give a tiny kick.. as if she was about to start.. then it just cranks for about 10secs with my foot down, then she kicks.. and stumbles bitches AND moans... and once she revs freely its as if nothing happened.. and idles smooth as silk ?!?!
*This only happens when cold* Also, once you get her started and drive around you have to be REAL gentle, because if you put your foot down to much she bogs down REAL bad and has NO power.. its actually pretty dangerous.. If you try to turn at an intersection its just slowly moving along as if it ran out of petrol.. then out of nowhere vrooom she kicks back in
When warm from idle to about 2200rpm she has no torque.. it doesnt feel normal at all.. once you get to around 2200rpm the power starts to kick in and away you go, tvis opens up at 4200rpm.
Timing is set at 10deg
NOW what im hoping i didnt do.. is apply too much silicone and now have tiny bits of silicone in the fuel rail, regulator, injectors?!
Ive put in 1ltr's worth of injector cleaner :| and its dont jack shit as far as i can tell.. not tha ti expected it to really to be honest lol All i can do is pull the fuel rail off and blow it out with compressed air, along with the regulator and see if there are any bits in the injectors?
What bothers me.. is that if it was a clogged injector then wouldnt the idle be affected? I mean its smooth and purrrs like a kitten.. its just starting her thats a bitch.. and the low rpm torque band. I am willing to pay $$ to anyone that can give me the correct diagnosis.. i love this car and its the only thing giving me the shits
Thanks for reading this far hey!!
cheers!
re the leaking issue, did you ensure there was a copper washer either side of the banjo fitting?
hello
Yup, i used the new ones that came with the filter. It was the bottom fitting that was leaking.
NO, if the idle & 4200 are correct - it doesn't have anything clogged enough for a startup problem, and if it'll redline in 3rd it really doesn't have any clog.Originally Posted by shmickmik
What's the compression?
Check engine light code/s?
Test Cold start injector?
Adjust TPS?
Check thermostat?
It may be the Start Injector Time Switch or something you've F'd with.
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Is the 'foot down' necessary? Is there a carburetor?
1lt'r!![]()
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http://www.toymods.net/TechDocs/4age_book/efi/fi_95.jpg
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IF i don;t put my foot down there is no chance its going to start, as soon as i take my foot off the pedal she stop coughing her guys up and just cranks endlessly.Originally Posted by allencr
And yes i used 1ltr of fuel injector cleaner over a 4 day period.
What's the compression? 191, 190, 192,190
Check engine light code/s? Nope nothing there
Test Cold start injector? Yes, 3.8ohms within range.
Adjust TPS? TPS is next on the list to check
Check thermostat? And no didn't think the thermostat would come into play?
*UPDATE* i pulled the fuel rail out today and made sure as shit that there are no leaks or blockage of any kind.. i might check the star injector time switch because when i pulled out the CSI and had somebody start the car it sprayed fuel from both sides, but it only did this once. After that initial spray it not longer shot fuel out? Is that how it works?
After taking out the fuel rail and spraying the injectors, regulator, pulsation dampener, return and input lines with carby cleaner.. she wants to start first go now. But NOW it looks as if i may have an idea on what it maybe.
Now if i put my foot down and turn her over she will cough and splatter pretty much straight away and kick into life. Before it would take a good 10secs of cranking before she started. NOW as soon as she starts she idle's rough and is blowing smoke.. im colour blind so i couldnt really tell which it was.
So i was thinking it maybe leaking valve stem seals? For some reason after cleaning the fuel bits she now wants to start straight away, BUT because of the leaking valve stem seals oil is dripping on the spark plugs and making it hard for them to want to start.. once the oil is burnt off (smoke) then she is fine again?
If nobody replies tahts fine.. ill work it outmyself eventually lol
Mate, just letting you know that not everybody is ignoring you. It just seems that there are so many possibilities I don't wanna just go suggesting everything from a faulty glovebox light to not enough air in the tyresPlus, I know nothing about the intricacies of the ST celica ECUs.
The rough starting and spluttering under cold load sounds exactly like an issue with the cold start injector. I don't know your specific ECU strategies... whether it also increases the standard injector duty cycle at cold start, or whether it relies solely on the CSI.
If you get desperate, it might pay to put a 12V LED in parallel with the CSI just to get a "feel" of when it is on and make sure the ECU is doing what it should be. The LEDs ~1.5k resistance in parallel shouldn't affect the CSI too much.
If it's not doing as it should, it's not necessarily the ECU, probably a temp input of some sort making it "think" it doesn't need the CSI.
The leaking stems seals sounds plausible too... but there are lots of possibilities. I think it's just a case of fix it and see. Has spraying everything clean fixed the bogging down issue at lights too? That would be the one that annoys me most (my carby car does it too)
Also, with the "foot down" doing, I can think of a couple of possibilities.
1) It's letting more air in for the same amount of fuel. Possibly there is TOO much fuel and flooding? doubt it though.
2) Some early ECU's have funky things where if you hold your foot flat in crank, they do different things (ie: no injector duty cyle to help flooding, or big duty cylce to allow you to cold start even if the CSI is busted). Might pay to ask around and see if yours does something like that.
Otherwise, keep tinkering and have *fun*
Cheers,
Timbo
Hey timbosaurus thanks for the ideas mateI didn't want to rule the CSI out so i went out and checked the resistance as per the workshop manual specs. According to the page it says that:
STA - STJ should be 20-40ohms when cold. I got 50
STA - GRND should be 20-80 i think i got 10?
Just got back from pick a part and found one that was within range.. so hopefully it will start first go tomorrow
However i have noticed something strange.. when im driving around i can notice a slight power loss sensation through the rev range right.. but what puzzles me is that if i sit at a set of lights for about 2 mins.. or just let the car idle for a bit.. then for the next min or so it regains some power and and the flatspot sort of feel to it has dissapeared.. then gradually you lose that power and its back to how it was![]()
Sorry i cant be more specific but thats how it feels lol
No idea about THAT one Mate!!Sorry
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