Good thinking. The input trigger for the relay is the same one as for the microtech so that will mean zero power to all which works as wellWill do it that way. I will whack that in after I get the thing running though.
Putting a switch in there introduces another point of bad contact and therefore failure.
So thats you call.
Electrically there is nothing wrong with that.
Personally I'd put the switch on the trigger to the relay, or just remove the relay for extra protection.
And there is nothing wrong with injectors not firing (this happens when the microtech primes the line before you start the car anyway), as there is a return line on the fuel rail, and the FPR keeps the pressure constant.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Good thinking. The input trigger for the relay is the same one as for the microtech so that will mean zero power to all which works as wellWill do it that way. I will whack that in after I get the thing running though.
Found out that the ltx12s has an option to be wideband compatible but I didn't know that at the time so it looks like I don't have it![]()
Hmm, is it an option? or is it standard?
I would have thought it would have been standard?
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
$600 option with a wideband sensor and loom included according to this: http://www.microtechefi.com/microtech-ecu-options.php
Their old site didn't specify that though, and also said it was only an LT12S option, not LT10S too.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
The jist I got from the old site was that a wideband sensor 'worked' with the LT12S, nothing extra was needed.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
ask on the microtech forums, then you'll know for sure
8.3 et PB 169 MPH PB
Didn't even know there was a forum. Just registering now
Is it just me or did www.microtechefi.com change in the last week?
Last edited by chris davey; 16-03-2006 at 02:14 PM.
started a thread in general car talk earlier this week
http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4274
8.3 et PB 169 MPH PB
whoops, missed itNice site though. I can't wait to download that datalog of 10secrx7's tonight.
Received my ecu a couple of days ago and will be installing on the weekend.
Q1. Re the timing lock. Turn it on, check timing with timing light (10deg BTDC), adjust if necessary, timing lock off. For people with 1jz's, did you have to adjust it or not? How exactly do you adjust it? Or do they mean adjust the microtech to whatever the engine is doing?
Q2. One the wiring diagram, it is noted for a 1jz that
Crank
1jz Microtech
red --------------------------red
white -----------------------yellow
My engine has white and orange wires for crank and cam sensors.
I am not too fussed over polarity as there is only 2 combinations but can anyone confirm that the microtech wires I have to plug them into is the red and yellow?
Blue and green used for cam sensor (front)
Thanks
Chris
Ok I have been doing test mode and I have the ref and rpm errors.
I have tried all possible combinations of +ve's and -ve's and different cam sensors.
I have a jzx90 chaser engine so the colours are different to the soarer diagram.
My engine has 3 white wires and 3 orange wires which are for cam 1, cam 2 and crank.
JZZ30 has 2 pairs of white and orange wires for cam 1 & 2 and a white and red for the crank.
I have just checked continuity between the actual cam sensor and the wire that I am calling the crank angle sensor and they were spot on.
I have verified that the cam angle sensor I am using is the centre one also.
I have wired it the way the diagram says and I still have the ref and rpm error.
Please help!
Strange noone has replied yet...
I havn't done a 1J before but I have a few other toyota diagrams here they all have the green input wire going to the lowest resolution sensor, the reset one (that would be the cam sensor for you I think).
red wire goes to highest resolution sensor or crank sensor in your case.
The white and yellow are joined together and go to ground in the mtech and obviously the remainig wire for each sensor.
However most of these diagrams were wrong anyway so that may not help you much..
Are the sensors on 1J's variable reluctor? If they are that might give you some clues as the 4 wires from the microtech will have 2 wires joined together and then to microtech ground the other 2 are then the signals, should narrow down the options a little.
If you are 100% sure it is wired correctly send back the ecu to have it checked, they have been known to come configured wrong. (I know you didn't want to hear that)
Also I know its obvious but you have cranked the motor over after swapping around wires and checked that it doesn't register RPM at all? I am pretty sure they throw rpm errors until you actually spin the motor even when wired correctly
I found out that in test mode it will always throw the ref and rpm errors.
I tried to crank it over and it did start but I still got errors? I turned it off after about 15 seconds. I wasn't really expecting it to start straight away.
I have tried to start it again and no go. Doesn't sound like the fuel pump is flowing so I am going to check that. On the setup screen for the ecu it does state that it is configured for a 1jz and considering how long it took to get here and how it had to go back to microtech for some options to be added I think it would be correct. I would hope so anyway.
The usually only stuff up when you ask for something special.
I had changed my 12 tooth crank disc to 4 teeth, and so they had to change the triggers to suit.
BUT, they forgot to change the RPM cut out pulse (fuel/ignition cutout for stalling). Its normally ~ 300rpm on a typical setup, but because I had 1/3 the teeth, the cut out RPM was 3 times, or ~900-950rpm.
For months I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the thing to idle below 1000rpm.
In the end I said stuff it, and sent the ecu back to be reprogrammed to suit the standard 12 tooth crank disc, and refitted a stock 12 tooth disc.
Low and behold it worked...
Anyway, that aside, change the 2 crank angle sensor wires over, run it again.
If you still get an error, change the 2 cam angle sensor wires over, run it again.
Try all 4 combinations.
I don't know why poeple use the Test Mode to check the wiring.
Just wire and up and kick it in the guts.
You'll know straight away if it works or not.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
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