How much lower can an engine go from dry sumping?

[Kyosho]

Heyall...

Doing some research for engine choice/build up procedure.

And I'm between 3 engines right about now.

One is going the 1G-GTE and stroking it with 6Boosts setup.
Secondly is going straight 1JZ,
Third is going for a 2JZ with a dry sump to lower the motor.

But my question is, how much more can a motor be lowered with a dry sump.

I'm going to be putting this into an RA23, and the only thing I've been told that physically stops the 2J going in, is the height of it. Now seeing how the 1JZ fits, and the 2JZ from memory is around 30mm higher, can I get the motor 30mm lower by going dry sump?

If i go the 1G route also, I'll be very carefully be looking at going dry sump also.

So, the question is out there, how much height can be saved on a 1G and 2JZ by going dry sump?

[The Real Roadrunner]

well without measuring it i can't tell you an actuall figure.

but it can be as close as 20mm to the lowest most part of the motor (without the sump on) , between that and the xmember IE: you need 10mm between the lowest part of the engine and the sump (which can be as thin as 2mm alloy) then a further 8 mm to the xmember.

cheers
linden

edited

[rms]

How low do you want to go ?

We have a dry sumped 1uz that is 110mm from crank centreline to the bottom of the sump.

[Kyosho]

I'll need to drop around 40mm...
Just wondering if it's possible with the 2JZ to get it that low (Is there enough clearance between crank and sump to bring it that much lower?

[SillyCarS]

honestly i wouldnt bother with this 2j idea, many ppl have asked questions about it and the ones that have decided to go through with it (bugeyecreepy, 18rgturbo (in america)) are either spending $20,000 to get brakes steering and suspension right or they are simply building a drag car

if your building a drag car, chop firewall, custom x-member

if you are wanting a daily go for the 6boost kit, fark me i would if i had the money. can we say "9sec street legal celica"

sure you'll have power with a 2j but say goodbye to steering and all you money

for $10k via the 6boost kit you can have a 9sec car that will still handle and be able to be registered, thats cheap

[brett_celicacoupe]

i suppose you could put a hump right in the middle where there is zero sump depth. have 2seperate oil pickups off each bulge. ie like an inverted double camel hump

you can build a farken powerful 2JZ for very cheap, check out 2JZR31's setup

[Kyosho]

The issue just isn't about out right power.

SillyCarS is correct, if I do go 2J, I have alot more weight up front to contend with.
The car is being built to drag, into the 10s.
There'll be alot of suspension mods going on to make it hookup also, but again, I want the car legal, and road registered to cruise in.
After some further reading, it seems the RA23 is a touch lighter then I initially thought, and the 2J would be illegal.

For the price, I'd rather chase a 2.2L 1G then a 1JZ also.

I'm just trying to get the right way to go for more goals, without stressing one component too far... (I know the whole system will be high strung, etc)
And the thought of a 10 000RPM 2.2L sounds very tantelizing... The only issue is I don't have money to buy one now.

[jak]

if you go 2j, you will do crazy numbers, but not much handling as mentioned.

im going to look into this just to see if i can get a bit more handling out of the 1j in the 28.

Jak

[Billzilla]

well without measuring it i can't tell you an actuall figure.

but it can be as close as 20mm to the lowest most of the motor, between that and the xmember IE: you need 10mm between the lowest part of the engine and the sump (which can be as thin as 2mm alloy) then a further 8 mm to the xmember.

cheers
linden

Word, Bro.
You can get them pretty darn short.

[SillyCarS]

if you dont have the cash and want a 10 sec streeter go for a 1j, the only reason i didnt is because of time

1j its cheap with plenty of bolt on mods and it fits

1j half cut $1700 (after you sell some left overs)
stick welder and rods $150, big arse angle grinder $100 (the only way to get mounts done properly and quickly)
zorst and plumbing $800
big turbo $1300
ebay manifold $250
microtech and tune $2500
oxy acet torch and a big hammer to r154 in trans tunnel or $1400 for a dellows w58 kit
g series diff and disc upgrade $750 (lsd)
pug hilux front brake upgrade $500

so yeah a long road ahead

[Kyosho]

Oh, I know it'll be a long road ahead.
I'm expecting $5000 just in the rear end setup for suspension (Yet alone dropping in a hilux diff to handle it, and what not. Plus engineering costs.

I already have a 1G, so I'm looking at just taking it on.
At a cost of around $4000 and have it rebuilt. Then turbo + manifold (Can have manifold custom made for me)
Already have rear brakes, and brackets to put the supra brakes on a hilux rear end.
Already have ECU that will run the engine.

The most expensive, is going to be rebuilding the motor and putting a turbo on.
Plus cooling mods.

[brett_celicacoupe]

i still reckon you can get further with a 2JZ.

2JZR31 is running a stock engine with a ebay manifold, xr6 turbo (i think), cheapo FMIC, 3" exhaust, and 550cc injectors. it makes 350rwkw. thats like a 5grand engine package.


350rwkw is going to be a low 11 maybe high 10 in a light RA23 if you can get the power down

[SillyCarS]

yeah but he wants to drive it on the street

if you do decide to go 2j, you may want to look into a ford falcon ghia 9" diff from an xd or xf

the centre will be expensive (they are a stock lsd but theyre shite, would need a detroit locker) but to convert it much the same with the added advantage of a stock whats link (spelling) as stock just like the v8 supercars use and they were the most ever produced car in australia and are relatively cheap

they are heavy but this will counter some of you lead tipped arrow issues and later there's always room for 500rwkw

[Kyosho]

2J is out due to engine size restrictions.

The RA23 falls in around 90KG too light.

So yeah, 2J is out, I'll 99% be going a 2.2L 1G then.

[oldcorollas]

dry sump it, it will prbably help the oil issues a abit. notch the cross-member to get engine lower....
usualyl the bit above the cross-member is not all that far from crank anyway???