The Spray Painting Thread

["Z" UTE]

I didn't have the breather in there.

Thats one reason you have too much air flow, as the breather is a controled size orifice.

cheers Chuck.

[Lambolica]

Thanks chuck,

Looks like (from an application point of view) my spray pattern was too long, and air pressure too high.

I assume also that using a 1.4 nozzle (instead of 1.8) will assist with colour?

Also for confirmation. 600ml will do 2 coats and a dust coat when you spray?

Cheers
Simon

[Lambolica]

Thats one reason you have too much air flow, as the breather is a controled size orifice.

cheers Chuck.

Hmmm... So it does.... p00 p00.

["Z" UTE]

Thanks chuck,

Looks like (from an application point of view) my spray pattern was too long, and air pressure too high.

I assume also that using a 1.4 nozzle (instead of 1.8) will assist with colour?

Also for confirmation. 600ml will do 2 coats and a dust coat when you spray?

Cheers
Simon

Simon, the smaller nozzle will help to atomize the paint into a finer mist, giving you a much better, more even film application.


Always mix up more paint than what you think you need, that way you have it ready to go if you are a little short in the pot near the end.

600ml should be enough for your 2 full coats and a thinned mist coat.

cheers Chuck.

[pac]

there is your problem 1.4 tip and using 600mls for two coats on a bonnet !!
1.4 is for thicker 2 pac paints which flow out and 600mls should be enough for 5-6 coats of acrylic, on a bonnet that is. enough said from my end i guess your head may be spinning by now with information overload.

[DrNick]

I'm sure the real experts have already covered this above but just in case you are interested - I had the exact same issues (on a smaller scale) when I recently resprayed some plastics. The ONLY thing I had changed was I used Septone wax and grease remover instead of the usual K&H stuff.

I didn't pick up on this immediately and did another couple of jobs (with same problems) before throwing the crap away and getting K&H wax and grease remover. This seemed to work great with the paints I was using which are all PPG acrylics.

Personally I think that everything made my Septone is of average quality. Good enough for little fixes (and I still use their jet black acrylic on plastics etc) , but not good enough for when you are doing a proper respray job with high quality top coats.

[Lambolica]

Yeah... Nuff said....

Septone stuff is going in the bin, smaller tip, I'll spend time setting the gun up so I can get a feel for when it is applied

By general concensus then, the prepwash was done incorrectly, and the fuckwit hold the gun is a trigger happy goof ball to get the results as shown.

Live and learn...

Cheers
Simon

[JZA70R_92]

hello guys this has been probley covered many times but what stages of sandpaper should be used for example after giving it a coat of primer I would like to block it down is 800 ok? I want to be sure that no sandpaper marks will appear in the top coat of JET BLACK!!! also for bog work is 600 ok to make sure its flat??

["Z" UTE]

hello guys this has been probley covered many times but what stages of sandpaper should be used for example after giving it a coat of primer I would like to block it down is 800 ok? I want to be sure that no sandpaper marks will appear in the top coat of JET BLACK!!! also for bog work is 600 ok to make sure its flat??

800 wet is spot on, any finer and there is insufficient grip surface for the next layer of paint.
320 for the bog, then prime, wet sand with 800, prime again and wets and with 800, then colour coat. For colour coating black, you need to do what is called a double header coat ie. one pass left to right, followed by a second pass right to left over the same area, then overlap by 50% for the next double header. The paint will almost be at the run stage if you are applying it correctly. It needs to be wet to flow and fill all the small low areas, and wet to self level. If you dry spray black, it will be like a chalk board even if you are using gloss paint.

Recently did a Crown bonnet in 2 pack black using that method, and it came out like a mirror.


cheers Chuck.

[JZA70R_92]

thanks for the info...still sanding my rear guard as I can feel minor imperfactions GRRRR

[love ke70]

are you using a guide coat when you block back, to make sure its straight? and what size block are you using?

[JZA70R_92]

well Ive got a few little issues one is where its a sharp bend and about 1cm of it is softish bend due to a repair, going to shape it better, my sanding block is 10x5cm

would you know any tricks in shaping bog better near bends etc

[rolleraction]

Hey Chuck, your info is appreciated very much.. Love this thread as I am about to go down the paint road also..

["Z" UTE]

well Ive got a few little issues one is where its a sharp bend and about 1cm of it is softish bend due to a repair, going to shape it better, my sanding block is 10x5cm

would you know any tricks in shaping bog better near bends etc

I tend to use anything that is available to shape awkward areas. ie. roll the paper into a tight tube, wrap more paper around to increase the diameter. Shape a block of wood to the disired profile, use a piece of alloy angle bar. The meaty part of your hand from little finger back comes in real handy for shaping compound curves. Try to think outside the square, and you will arrive at a solution.

cheers Chuck.

[Jeri]

Hi... i just spent 2 hours stripping the door jamb to bare metal.....
i was just wondering if its actually necessary to go right to bare metal on the the other side if all the is the original paint, unlike the rest of the car that had 2 coats of paint on heaps of highfill....
do i need to spend another 2 hours?